CDL Problems Need Wiring Diagram

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Well, I checked the resistance between terminals 2 and 3 on the motor actuator and it check out just fine, but when I tried to check the resistance between terminal 2 and a ground I got nothing, I also got nothing when I check resistance between 3 and the frame. According to the FSM I have a bad actuator. I guess I will have to find the rebuild instructions for the CDL and begin the rebuild:frown: .

Thanks
Scott
 
Portal_tek said:
Well, I checked the resistance between terminals 2 and 3 on the motor actuator and it check out just fine, but when I tried to check the resistance between terminal 2 and a ground I got nothing, I also got nothing when I check resistance between 3 and the frame. According to the FSM I have a bad actuator. I guess I will have to find the rebuild instructions for the CDL and begin the rebuild:frown: .

Thanks
Scott
Click to expand...

hold on that is good, no connection qualifies as "more than half a million ohms" what they are basically asking you to check is that the motors windings are not shorted to ground and yours are not, and that is good.

Not to say that your actuator does not need to be reworked just that it passed that particular test
 
I wasn't sure what that actual test was trying to determine. So that means I passed both tests for the actuator. I tried the 9V battery again, but still no luck. I am not sure if I should kick it up to 12V and see if it needs more power to spin the motor, but I think tomorrow I will check the relay and see if I am getting the correct readings from it. If everyting checks out good on the relay I guess the only thing I can assume is the actuator is bad, then it wouldn't matter if I jolted it with an uncontrolled 12V or not.

Thanks
Scott
 
did you ever get power at the harnees coming from the relay? did you try shorting 4,5 and 6 together to get power at 2&3 ?

I would not go on the assumption that your actuator is to be destroyed, the fixable ratio of actuators is retty good, ushaully it is just a minor problem liek a little corrosion or loose magnets.

only problem with uncontrolled 12V is that the actuator will not stop in the right spot like it is suppose to and will overdrive the wait springs tweaking them, I found this out the hard way on the first set of actuators I did for a friend, we were able to take the spring pack apart and put it back toether again but the springs were not 100 % after that, you can try it if you must but try not to drive the motor to far in any one direction,
 
Portal_tek said:
I am not sure if I should kick it up to 12V and see if it needs more power to spin the motor
Click to expand...

Do not use 12v. A small 9v battery will work for testing.

-B-
 
Where is the relay on a late model 95? I thought it was behind the kick panel on the drivers side, but the click I hear is comming from behind the heater controls.

I havn't tried the 12v, and I won't due to all the the advise. I still want to check the relay before I tear into the actuator.

Thanks
Scott
 
that is it, behind the kick pannel on the drivers side, if you look up the pin 7 mod you will find descriptions on where to find it and how to get ot it.
 
Well, I checked Slee Off Road and found where the relay is, but I don't hear any clicking from that box. The clicking is comming from behind the heater controls, what do you think would be clicking behind the heater controls when I shift into low? Is there another relay behind the controls?

Scott
 
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Portal_tek said:
Is there another relay behind the controls?

Scott
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nope all that should be in that area for the CDL system is a loose harneess with a jumper plug where the CDL switch would be, nothing that would make a sound,


left field: how long have you owned it? what was the PO like? could they have modified something like this?
 
Sorry, I guess I was really hearing things, now that my head is down there and I know where the box is I can hear and feel it. My dad was the second owner and I am now the third, so no I don't think anyone has done any mods.

Scott
 
Well, here is what I have found so far. I testet continuity between terminals 1 and 2 everything checked out fine, I then checked continuity between terminals 2 and 4 and everything checked out fine. I then checked out continuity between 6 and 7 and I was not able to get anything. I know this is a diode and this is probably why I am not getting any continuity. The thing that I don't understand is the FSM tells me to change the positive and negative probes and recheck. I am assuming they are telling me to just move the positive and negative to opposite terminals. pos. to 6 neg. to 7 instead of pos. to 7 and neg. to 6 is this correct? If it is true I still was not able to get any reading. I plan on rechecking the reading tomorrow to verify this is a failure.

I will continue with the relay test tomorrow once I get some better leads and a deep socket so I can remove the relay from its mounting point. I sure wish I was home in my garage where I have all the tools I need.

Scott
 
RavenTai said:
did you ever get power at the harnees coming from the relay? did you try shorting 4,5 and 6 together to get power at 2&3 ?
Click to expand...


6 neg and 7 pos looks right if I am reading the manual corectly, pin 7 is where the input from the 4 low switch come into the relay,
 
Well, that really could explain what may be going on. I will recheck it tomorrow. If I find that it is bad I am going to see if I can find a used one to test with before purchasing a new one. I can only imagine what Toyota wants for a new one.

I haven't tried to short the 4,5 and 6 pins to see if I can get power to 2 and 3 yet. The only way I could see this being possible is to have a spare clip and plug into the harness then tie the 4,5,and,6 wires together then test 2 and 3. I really would like to try this, this test would definitly verify a bad relay. Do you have any other ideas on how I could tie those terminals together? Maybe two paperclips?

Thanks

Scott
 
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Can you build a small jumper out of wire and standard female bayonet style terminals. Should be able to get the bits at any auto parts store or big hardware store like Lowes or Home Depot.

-B-
 
Portal_tek said:
Well, that really could explain what may be going on. I will recheck it tomorrow. If I find that it is bad I am going to see if I can find a used one to test with before purchasing a new one. I can only imagine what Toyota wants for a new one.

I haven't tried to short the 4,5 and 6 pins to see if I can get power to 2 and 3 yet. The only way I could see this being possible is to have a spare clip and plug into the harness then tie the 4,5,and,6 wires together then test 2 and 3. I really would like to try this, this test would definitly verify a bad relay. Do you have any other ideas on how I could tie those terminals together? Maybe two paperclips?

Thanks

Scott
Click to expand...

I also like that check as it check the harness and the relay at the same time,

the harness side is female right? paper clips would probably work or you could just get a 6" or so piece of wire strip the ends and push them in there until they make contact, having Toyota terminated jumper wires from the Junk yard makes this a lot easier,

if it makes it easier you can try 4 to 5 and then seperatly 4 to 6, checking voltage to pin s 2&3 at each step.

basically pins 4, 5 and 6 tell the relay where the actuator is at so the relay can start/stop/change direction of the motor, at the extremes of locked and unlocked one or the other of 5 or 6 will not be connected to 4, in the middle of travel both 5 and 6 are connected to 4.

when you short all three the relay thinks it is in travel and it must always be either locked or unlocked so it will try to send it in witchever direction is is suppose to be until the pin that is suppose to opon becomes open and power will sease,

if you just short one pin to pin 4 it will think it is either fully unlocked our fully locked, if it reads as locked when it is suppose to be locked no power will be sent, if it reads locked when it is suppose to be unlocked power will be sent in the unlock direction and vise versa.
 
Well, I jumped pins 4,5 and 6 with a couple of paperclips(which worked perfect) then checked for voltage on pins 2 and 3. I found that I am getting 11.6 volts to pins 2 and 3 which means that power must be getting to the actuator. I guess that means it must be a problem with the actuator. I will try and get the FSM from techinfo.toyota.com, hopefully they fixed their site.

Is is possible to remove the actuator without dropping the t-case?

Scott
 
I am glad that worked too bad the result is more work,


one more thing you can try and I think we can definitively declare you actuator as the culprit, if you have the T-case in 4 low when you did the 4, 5 &6 test, put it in high, you should still get voltage but in in opposite polarity, or vise versa if it was in high.


I hear the CDl actuator can be removed without dropping the T-case but it looks easier in the long run to just drop it, I have not pulled one so Tools thread from above is probably your best source of info going foreward,


if you go to the techinfo site get the repair manual, the EWD, and also get the New car Features manual for a 96 LX450, it has a very good section on the CDL system with good diagrams, better than the FSM. 96 LX is the only year that one was released.
 
Well, I decided to run the last test to make sure it is definitly the actuator, and it did check out to be the acutator. The last test showed postitive polarity when in high and negative polarity when in low.

Well, I am away from my shop until the second week in December, but I really would like to tear it apart while I am here in Oklahoma. I really don't like to be bored, so if I can do the rebuild here that would be great. The only problem I have is I have no way to drop the t-case, so I have to do it in the Cruiser. I will read the posts that expain the rebuild and I will find the tech manuals you have refrenced.

Thanks for all of your help
Scott
 
Yes the actuator can be removed without removing the transfer. I found it easier to remove the front drive shaft and lower the cross member slightly to give more room to work.
 
I may try to do the project without lowering the t-case, but if it begins to get too tight I did see a post where someone used some longer bolts to lower it.

How long did it take you to complete the fix.

Scott
 
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