CDL Problems Need Wiring Diagram

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

DieselFJ

DieselFJ

SILVER Star
10 Year 15 Year 20 Year
Joined
Sep 12, 2004
Threads
251
Messages
1,783
Location
Utah
I have a 7/95 FZJ80, I am having problems with my CDL. I was able to jump the switch and got the ABS and Center Locker light to come on, but when I jumped the 4 wheel indicator switch and I was not able to get the actuator motor to work. I was behind the glovebox working on the wiring harness connectors due to a leaky windshield. I disconnect all the connectors cleaned the corrosion then put them back. I did have one connector that I couldn't find where it went so I didn't plug it into anything. The connector was a two prong connector with two large blue wires. I believe the wires were blue and white and blue and red. I am not sure if what I did behind the glovebox caused the problem, or if it was like this before I started messing around.

I have been reading for the past 4 hours trying to figure out where to start with the troubleshooting and I have come to the conclusion I need a wiring diagram. I am in Oklahoma for 2 months so I don't have any of my manuals. If someone could give me a hand that would be great.

Thanks
Scott
 
Last edited:
Portal_tek said:
I have a 7/94 FZJ80, I am having problems with my CDL. I was able to jump the switch and got the ABS and Center Locker light to come on, but when I jumped the 4 wheel indicator switch and I was not able to get the actuator motor to work. I was behind the glovebox working on the wiring harness connectors due to a leaky windshield. I disconnect all the connectors cleaned the corrosion then put them back. I did have one connector that I couldn't find where it went so I didn't plug it into anything. The connector was a two prong connector with two large blue wires. I believe the wires were blue and white and blue and red. I am not sure if what I did behind the glovebox caused the problem, or if it was like this before I started messing around.

I have been reading for the past 4 hours trying to figure out where to start with the troubleshooting and I have come to the conclusion I need a wiring diagram. I am in Oklahoma for 2 months so I don't have any of my manuals. If someone could give me a hand that would be great.

Thanks
Scott
Click to expand...

techinfo.toyota.com

rent the manuals online including the coveted electrical manual.

10 per day or 50 per month. downloadable pdf files.

this is a good deal
 
I forgot about tech info, I may just have to do that.

Thanks
Scott
 
I don't have the CDL button, so is there a plug behind the dash that I could have disconnected causing the CDL to stop working? I checked both switches on the t-case and both of them are working fine. I am still not getting the motor to throw the engaging arm. I am getting a click in the relay behind the kick panel. I will keep searching, but if anyone has any ideas, please speak up.

Thanks
Scott
 
Tech Down Need Forum Help

Well, since ToyotaTechInfo is having problems running credit cards I can't sign up, so I am going to ask questions, hopefully someone can help.

I have jumped both sensors. According to CruiserDan when you jump the CDL switch the lights should come on and when you jump the 4 whell indicator switch you should get the actuator to engage. When I jump the wires to the 4 wheel indicator switch I get nothing to the acuator, but I do hear the relay clicking. What should be the next place I should check?

Thanks
Scott
 
Portal_tek said:
What should be the next place I should check?

Thanks
Scott
Click to expand...

Next I would check that the actuator is getting power, unplug the CDL actuator and on the body side harness check that you have power between pin 3 green and pin 2 green w/ red stripe when you jump the L4 switch and get the clicking in the dash, the clicking is the CDL relay clicking over to send power to the actuator

you can also test the actuator using a 9v battery on the same 2 pins but on the actuator side, do not use over 9v as you can stretch the wait springs with an uncontrolled 12v source, the same two pins are use for lock and unlock you just switch polarity,

If the CDL actuator is getting power from the CDL relay but is not moving then you probably need to pull the CDL and rebuild it, there are some threads here on how to rebuild the front and rear locker actuators, the CDL actuator is very similar,

also check all the wire harnesses in the area some reports of wire chaffing in that area.
 
Last edited:
centerdifflockx_Page_1.jpg


centerdifflockx_Page_2.jpg
 
interesting, on (I assume 94 LC EWD?) pin 2 is green w/blue instead of green w/red like my 96 LX, it also shows the optional CDL switch, wher mine just shows the jumper
 
My 95 is also green and green/blue. I check the wires and I am not getting any voltage to that switch. I am now going out with a 9 volt battery to check the actuator side. I will post up shortly with what I find out.

Thanks
Scott
 
You may need a SST like in the pic below. I had the same problem, no ABS and CDL lights when in LOW, switches tested ok, and I also didn't hear any noise from the CDL actuator when switched to LOW.

This is how I fixed mine, I shifted to LOW, pointed my front driver wheel to the "SST" and drove over it. I got the ABS and CDL lights back on immediately. I exercised it that way a few times, and it has been working normal since.

CDL_SST.jpg
 
Portal_tek said:
My 95 is also green and green/blue. I check the wires and I am not getting any voltage to that switch.

Thanks
Scott
Click to expand...

you are not getting voltage to one of the switches or not getting voltage to the CDL actuator?
 
Here is what I have found out so far. The 4 wheel switch is working fine. I am getting the same noise jumping the connector as I am shifting into low 4. The problem I see now is that I am not getting power down to the 2 and 3 pins on the harness side of the connector. I also tried the 9 volt battery trick to the actuator and I was not able to get the actuator to make noise, but I am not sure if I am doing it right. I would like to find out why I am not getting the power to the 2 and 3 pins. I do hear another click when I plug the CDL connector together.

I was just thinking, would I need to have the CDL switch jumpered to get power to the 2 and 3 pins? I have been jumping the 4 wheel switch.

I like the stump idea:) I have actually been trying all types of dips, bumps, gravel roads etc... to see if it was a stuck actuator, but I am leaning towards a wiring problem.

Thanks
Scott
 
Portal_tek said:
Here is what I have found out so far. The 4 wheel switch is working fine. I am getting the same noise jumping the connector as I am shifting into low 4. The problem I see now is that I am not getting power down to the 2 and 3 pins on the harness side of the connector. I also tried the 9 volt battery trick to the actuator and I was not able to get the actuator to make noise, but I am not sure if I am doing it right. I would like to find out why I am not getting the power to the 2 and 3 pins. I do hear another click when I plug the CDL connector together.
Click to expand...


on second thought I may have lead you wrong, when you unplug the actuator it also unlusds the actuator limit switches, you may have to jump pin 4, 5 & 6 together or alternatly just 4 to 5 or 4 to 6 to get the relay to send down some power


I was just thinking, would I need to have the CDL switch jumpered to get power to the 2 and 3 pins? I have been jumping the 4 wheel switch.

I like the stump idea:) I have actually been trying all types of dips, bumps, gravel roads etc... to see if it was a stuck actuator, but I am leaning towards a wiring problem.

Thanks
Scott
Click to expand...

you should only have to jump the 4 low switch, or alternatly hook the switch back up and put the tcase in low or depress the CDL switch on the dash if you have it,

all the CDL indicator switch does is tell the ABS to disable and tun on the CDL light on the cluster. this all happens after the actuator moves and is not required to get power to the actuator,



anyway the actuator not moving when you put power to it is not a good sign, you want to put power to pins 2 & 3 on the actuator, if you hear nothing then try switchign polarity, dont leave it hookd to power for too long

are you sure you have the right pins?
are you sure the 9v battery is good?
 
I beleive that I have a CDL switch problem because the lights don't light up until I jump the plug, but with what you said that definitly doesn't explain the actuator not moving.

I know that the 9V is good because I went and purchased a new one. It is really funny you asked, I actually checked it first with a bad one, I didn't know it was bad until I checked it with my volt meter.

I am not sure if I have the right pins. I believe I have the right clip. The clip I am using was attached to the top of the t-case. It has 6 pins, but one is not being used. I figured that pins 2 and 3 are the ones that are on the same line as the pin slot not being used. I went and purchased some clips to see if I can make a better connection. All I was able to do was touch the wires to the prongs so I am not sure if that was enough of a contact especially with a 9V battery. Will that 9V battery produce enough amperage to turn that motor? By reducing voltage the motor should still turn just slower, but if it does not have enough amperage it won't turn, right?


By the way, I just went a did some more wheeling to see if I could get it to engage, but I don't think it was still working.
Thanks
Scott
 
Portal_tek said:
I am not sure if I have the right pins. I believe I have the right clip. The clip I am using was attached to the top of the t-case. It has 6 pins, but one is not being used. I figured that pins 2 and 3 are the ones that are on the same line as the pin slot not being used. I went and purchased some clips to see if I can make a better connection. All I was able to do was touch the wires to the prongs so I am not sure if that was enough of a contact especially with a 9V battery. Will that 9V battery produce enough amperage to turn that motor? By reducing voltage the motor should still turn just slower, but if it does not have enough amperage it won't turn, right?
Click to expand...

That sounds like the correct conector/clip, I cannot find any other 6 pin connectors in that area in the EWD, and also sounds like the correct pins, 1, 2 & 3 are on the same row, pin 1 is not populated, the front and rear lockers have the same 6 pin connectors with 5 pins.

I have used a 9v several times to move front and rear lockers, a healthy actuator will move almost as fast on 9v as it will 12v but with less torque, it will stall if there is much resistance,

the connection did not seam that critical for the 9v battery test, I slid some 6" wires that were terminated at one end and stripped at the other I had from another project (parking lamps) onto the pins of the actuators connectors and then just touched the bare ends of the wires to the terminals of the 9v battery motor turned,


sounds like your actuator may be the problem, the thread Tools R Us posted above has a lof of good info and pics for pulling the actuator, hopefully yours is just some river silt or light corrosion and not burnt up inside, often you can get an actuator going again just by taking it apart, cleaning and lubing it,


the rear actuator has a gotcha regarding positioning when you put it together, the front does not, you just follow the FSM, not sure if there are any gotcha's on taking apart the center actuator, hopefully someone knows,






goos luck :beer:
 
Does the FSM show a way to trouble shoot the relay? I would like to make sure the relay is working correctly before I attempt to remove and repair the actuator.

Thanks
Scott
 
Thanks, once the ground dries will be out there testing.


Scott
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom