Rohitash....I will be coming to California in a few days....if you need me to bring any thing let me know and I can transfer it off to you or to someone who can get it to you.
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Busted Tranny?
- Thread starter rohitash
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- Thread starter
- #22
Onur, thanks. Will take you up on that.
- Thread starter
- #23
I opened up the front driver side hub. The snap ring had come off. Not broken. The axle had slid inside an inch and a half and the outside half inch (including the snap ring groove) had sheered off. So essentially the axle was freewheeling and probably also causing all the noise etc. Would this account for the behaviour I was encountering? I'm still going to put on the smooth flanges and remove the front driveshaft to eliminate tranny/tcase problems. And also drain the oil from the front diff to check it as well.
I do have a couple of older drive shafts that I need to rebuild and can use them. Will need to get a new flange and will also clean out and repack the bearings while I have this open.
Anything else I should be checking?
I do have a couple of older drive shafts that I need to rebuild and can use them. Will need to get a new flange and will also clean out and repack the bearings while I have this open.
Anything else I should be checking?
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
I think all of your symptoms could have been due to that. that's awesome.
With open diffs center and front, and no viscous coupler (I don't think the 100s got that, but not sure), all your drive force is going to the place with no resistance. This is why even a Land Cruiser can get stuck with just 1 wheel spinning.
Anyway, for you this is huge. A new 1/2 shaft and drive flange you are good to go. This is so funny, we're all happy you "only" need to spend $500 and not $4000!
With open diffs center and front, and no viscous coupler (I don't think the 100s got that, but not sure), all your drive force is going to the place with no resistance. This is why even a Land Cruiser can get stuck with just 1 wheel spinning.
Anyway, for you this is huge. A new 1/2 shaft and drive flange you are good to go. This is so funny, we're all happy you "only" need to spend $500 and not $4000!
Sounds like it. No viscous coupler like an 80, so all the power was going there and not to any of the other wheels. That would also explain why you got drive power when you locked the center diff. Easy fix! Although, I'm curious as to how that happened in the first place...
Rohitash: 2 weeks ago I had a CV blow up on me. It left me with the same symptom you experienced: No drivey. Just in case you don't know: The snap rings come in different thicknesses. You might want to order several different thicknesses to be sure you have what you need on hand...
Just check the CV seal on the inside of the steering knuckle for wear...since the CV was rolling around. And ditto on the axle tube side. Those are easy to replace if necessary. And check the needle bearing that the CV shaft rides on (its pressed into the inside of the steering knuckle).
Save that drive plate and have it bored...then do the same with one more and throw them in your on-board tool kit
Maybe its just the photo but one of the hub flange studs looks effed up...
Just check the CV seal on the inside of the steering knuckle for wear...since the CV was rolling around. And ditto on the axle tube side. Those are easy to replace if necessary. And check the needle bearing that the CV shaft rides on (its pressed into the inside of the steering knuckle).
Save that drive plate and have it bored...then do the same with one more and throw them in your on-board tool kit
Maybe its just the photo but one of the hub flange studs looks effed up...
- Thread starter
- #27
Thanks guys! Yes - it is a relief to see 'only' that problem. I will get different thickness snap rings as you have suggested. Still not sure how that clip came off. I had the axle out more than 20k miles ago. And never had any indication of the problem till now. Will check the seals and needle bearing as well. Still keeping my fingers crossed as I still have to put in the smooth flanges and test drive the rig. Tonight hopefully.
Obviously if the snap ring was never put back on it's easy to understand what happened. But it sounds like you have the snap ring as evidence that it was put on but it came off, right?
So, I'll point out that technically the snap ring is marked in the FSM as a non-reusable part. If one uses snap ring pliers it's easy to remove them without damaging them and I don't think I'd worry much about reusing them, but if they're pulled off less carefully it's easy to distort their shape such they don't stay in the groove fully (more oval shaped than circle and not gripping the shaft).
Also, the FSM says to "select the snap ring which ensures the clearance between the tip of the flange and the snap ring is less than 0.2 mm (0.008 in.). Perhaps too much or too little clearance can do harm?
I know I have not been using new ones each time I remove them (wheel bearing repack, CV Joint repack, etc) but your experience makes me respect that little part more than before so thanks - I know I learned something tonight
So, I'll point out that technically the snap ring is marked in the FSM as a non-reusable part. If one uses snap ring pliers it's easy to remove them without damaging them and I don't think I'd worry much about reusing them, but if they're pulled off less carefully it's easy to distort their shape such they don't stay in the groove fully (more oval shaped than circle and not gripping the shaft).
Also, the FSM says to "select the snap ring which ensures the clearance between the tip of the flange and the snap ring is less than 0.2 mm (0.008 in.). Perhaps too much or too little clearance can do harm?
I know I have not been using new ones each time I remove them (wheel bearing repack, CV Joint repack, etc) but your experience makes me respect that little part more than before so thanks - I know I learned something tonight
FYI: The snap rings (inner and outer) are a parts replacement item at the time of removal per the FSM. When I removed mine a couple weeks ago it was a little "stretched" after it came off. And the play tolerance for the outer snap ring is .2mm (.008") just in case you don't have the FSM Rohitash.
Snap rings are available in these thicknesses: 1.8mm/2.0mm/2.2mm/2.4mm/2.6mm/2.8mm
Snap rings are available in these thicknesses: 1.8mm/2.0mm/2.2mm/2.4mm/2.6mm/2.8mm
where are you buying your replacement rings? I don't see them specifically listed in the online parts catalogs.
I have a stockpile of them from when Lee was at Fletcher-Jones. But Onur (aka beno) can get them for you along with 25% discount.
I've gotten them from lexuspartsnow.com and toyotapartszone.com. I'm sure you can get them from cdan and beno as well.
To find the part number, as an example for me, hit lexuspartsnow.com and then pick 05 lx470, go to powertrain/chassis section, and select component #25 front axle hub figure 43-03, and you'll see all the different snap ring sizes and part numbers. The ones on mine from previous owner were 2.0mm - don't know if there's a 'default' size or not. I found that on one side after rebuilding the cv joints that 1.8mm was needed and on the other side i believe 2.2 mm might be a better fit - I have those 3 sizes at hand waiting for the next wheel bearing repack at 120k
Part numbers for convenience:
2.8mm = 90520-31005
2.6mm = 90520-31006
2.4mm = 90520-31007
2.2mm = 90520-31008
2.0mm = 90520-31009
1.8mm = 90520-31010
Weird, that's the second one of these in like the past year. Keep the flange, someone could get another one and machine out the splines and have a blown diff kit.
- Thread starter
- #35
Good news! I just put in the smooth drive flanges, removed the front driveshaft and took it for a short spin with center diff locked. It runs fine in all gears in high and low. So looks like the transmission and tcase are fine!!
Now I need to order some new drive flanges (I'm going to get both sides so I can grind down the existing ones and keep them in my spares box). Also need to get the boot kits for the axles and rebuild my old LC axles. Right now the driver side axle is just 'resting' in there as the groove for the snap ring was shorn off - so I'm not going to drive it around any more.
On the snap ring - I did the last axle myself so only myself to blame
. However I do remember putting it on properly with a snap ring plier. I've done this several times before on my old LC without bothering to use a new part or measure thickness / play. This particular snapring was not damaged or stretched in any way. My guess would be a wrong thickness snapring with excessive play caused it to come off. So yes - now I see the light and there is some meaning to the FSM procedures!
Thanks everyone for all the advice - Mud rocks! Will post updates as I get the repair done.
Andy - I'm sure your rubbing rabbit's foot helped here!
Now I need to order some new drive flanges (I'm going to get both sides so I can grind down the existing ones and keep them in my spares box). Also need to get the boot kits for the axles and rebuild my old LC axles. Right now the driver side axle is just 'resting' in there as the groove for the snap ring was shorn off - so I'm not going to drive it around any more.
On the snap ring - I did the last axle myself so only myself to blame
. However I do remember putting it on properly with a snap ring plier. I've done this several times before on my old LC without bothering to use a new part or measure thickness / play. This particular snapring was not damaged or stretched in any way. My guess would be a wrong thickness snapring with excessive play caused it to come off. So yes - now I see the light and there is some meaning to the FSM procedures! Thanks everyone for all the advice - Mud rocks! Will post updates as I get the repair done.
Andy - I'm sure your rubbing rabbit's foot helped here!
I've gotten them from lexuspartsnow.com and toyotapartszone.com. I'm sure you can get them from cdan and beno as well.
To find the part number, as an example for me, hit lexuspartsnow.com and then pick 05 lx470, go to powertrain/chassis section, and select component #25 front axle hub figure 43-03, and you'll see all the different snap ring sizes and part numbers. The ones on mine from previous owner were 2.0mm - don't know if there's a 'default' size or not. I found that on one side after rebuilding the cv joints that 1.8mm was needed and on the other side i believe 2.2 mm might be a better fit - I have those 3 sizes at hand waiting for the next wheel bearing repack at 120k
Part numbers for convenience:
2.8mm = 90520-31005
2.6mm = 90520-31006
2.4mm = 90520-31007
2.2mm = 90520-31008
2.0mm = 90520-31009
1.8mm = 90520-31010
Thanks for the part number reference!