Totally. Would be a big commitment to tear everything out to do it
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Totally. Would be a big commitment to tear everything out to do it
@Broski we have similar ideas, and like everything the details make or break the design.
I really like what @joez did, pics in this thread Bolt in Safety Roll Cage for 80 Series Land Cruiser Lexus LX450 HDJ81 FJ80 - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/bolt-in-safety-roll-cage-for-80-series-land-cruiser-lexus-lx450-hdj81-fj80.981040/page-3
I think the most important parts are the exo A-pillar, a proper interior B-hoop with interior triangulation, and front to back interior triangulation somewhere (from B or C locations depending on your preference). I agree with your approach to tie into the slider and body A-pillar at the door hinges and I think a lot of the challenging details are in those tie ins.
The other challenges are where and how to tie interior to the roof halo/ rack without hacking up the headliner too bad or making water leaks.
How do you feel about exo D-pillar tie in from the roof halo to your rear bumper taillight armor?
I really like what @joez did, pics in this thread Bolt in Safety Roll Cage for 80 Series Land Cruiser Lexus LX450 HDJ81 FJ80 - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/bolt-in-safety-roll-cage-for-80-series-land-cruiser-lexus-lx450-hdj81-fj80.981040/page-3
I think the most important parts are the exo A-pillar, a proper interior B-hoop with interior triangulation, and front to back interior triangulation somewhere (from B or C locations depending on your preference). I agree with your approach to tie into the slider and body A-pillar at the door hinges and I think a lot of the challenging details are in those tie ins.
The other challenges are where and how to tie interior to the roof halo/ rack without hacking up the headliner too bad or making water leaks.
How do you feel about exo D-pillar tie in from the roof halo to your rear bumper taillight armor?
I like Dave’s interior cage design, but it doesn’t have an A-pillar and the weakest part of the 80 body in a roll is the factory A-pillar.
A more minimalist approach would be to do Dave’s interior cage plus a small exo halo around the sunroof and Exo A-pillars through the fenders like you planned.
Then you could run a light gutter mount roof rack for the rear 3/4 of your rack (if you have needs for a rack on your rig at all)
I’m 6’5” and @joez’s B-pillar design would work for me but dirthead Dave’s would not. My head would be in the roll bar.
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Ha ha I’m 6’4” so in the same boat.
I follow both so I have check out both of those builds.
I agree with everything you say and that it’s all in the details.
One other thing to consider is with @joez set up you can’t run the second row seats.
I usually don’t but like to be able to if needed.
I follow both so I have check out both of those builds.
I agree with everything you say and that it’s all in the details.
One other thing to consider is with @joez set up you can’t run the second row seats.
I usually don’t but like to be able to if needed.
You could land @joez’s bent B-pillars in the back seat floor boards and still fit the second row seats, but the B-pillars will be in the passenger’s knees because you’re tall. A single interior diagonal brace, no seat belt bars or full X.
The B pillar hoop and proper bracing would save your life the A pillar would not save the cab or windshield anyway.
I’d rather not have the windshield frame collapse into my lap. Again, I’m 6’5” and my head’s an inch from the headliner. The factory B-pillar actually holds up OK but photos of rolled 80’s often have the windshield frame into broken neck territory for me in the driver’s seat.
I like the cage on the 80 in that video too
6'6" here. The A pillar is definitely a worry in these things.
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- #1,392
Probably the closest to what I inversion.
I like his plates for tie in through the roof (easier to seal and prevent leaks than a tube pass through), but I don’t like how he has no headliner. How would you make the tie-in through the roof?
I’ve been thinking holes in the headliner big enough for the tie in plates but maybe there’s a cleaner way I haven’t thought of yet.
-Bucket
Would you keep or delete your sunroof? Delete saves weight and gets out of the way of roof tie ins. Keep keeps wagon luxury.
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- #1,396
All these questions are why it hasn’t happened. The head liner is still in really good shape and the sun roof works perfectly with no leaks or rattles.
So I have a hard time ripping all of that out.
It gets parked in my shop and out of the rain for the most part so I was thinking holes would be less intrusive.
Weight is a big concern for me so I would only have a B piller tube on the inside with the braces going back to the top of the wheel wells and tied in the third row seat mounts.
Very similar to what Dave did but popping through the roof.
The main idea would be to cage the front seat occupants.
6'5, no A pillar cage, double B pillar cage. If I flop it and I die in my 80 I guess it was meant to be.
Having flattened a previous truck to the dash, you'd be surprised how much you automatically scooch down and the A Pillar crushing isn't as big of a factor as I'd have thought. I had no injuries from the roof in that one, though I had a hell of a hard time getting out.
@Broski I think a kind of “trim plate” welded to the pass through tube from the top after assembly and riv-nut bolted to the roof would seal out rain and keep the simple hole through the headliner inside.
If you want the second row seats to function I think your front to back diagonal brace needs to be behind the second row (top of C-pillar to bottom of D-pillar)
Have you considered a halo only around the sunroof to save weight? The full exo halo / roof rack is heavy and if you’re goal is to be light and protect the front row seats then you could go more minimal.
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I agree that the cage on the 80 in the video looks good, but what's the point? If you flop it that install isn't going to save the roof and it would be a lot easier (and lower COG, which Broski is a big fan of) to build an internal cage?
The point is headroom in the driver’s seat.