Edit- read the comments in his YouTube video, on 2003 and up models the push button to release the assembly is 180 degrees from the 2002 and lower models, it’s directly on top.
Broken ignition rod repair method
- Thread starter Tres Toys
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Well not sure if this project is needed on 2003 and up models, I pulled my cam assembly out and it’s identical to the new part from Toyota..
The original part is stamped 2061B, the new one stamped 2061A
(New user first post) Has anyone that has fixed this run into the car not starting after the new part is installed? Followed the YT vid to a T but the car doesn’t want to turn over for some reason
Any help appreciated
Any help appreciated
Eyedaho
SILVER Star
Since the bottom of that barrel engages the rotary switch with the ignition circuit contacts, if the key turns ask the way then I would probably start there. I was able to replace that rotary switch from the bottom (I think I followed something earlier in this thread?), which might be easier to see pull it off to what's going on.
Thanks - took a look at that but ended up not being the issue; had to re-attach the little black key cover (didn't see the wire running to the starter at first).
Running great!
Hi everyone, the ignition rod broke on my 1999 LX470 (electronic tilt). I've removed the broken piece, ordered the 7853B part from amazon, swapped that metal 'tongue' and 1 little spring, put it back together and this is how it works (see video).
- The wheel doesn't lock even without a key
- Car starts, but you need to jiggle the key for a while
I've tried to remove the new part and spent over 5 hours with no success!! Any tips? I'm a bit frustrated to say the least. Thanks!
Does anyone know if you absolutely need to loosen the two rear screws? Not sure how that affects pulling out the broken piece. Is there anything holding the broken piece in besides the slide piece?
When you look down the tube there's a spring loaded part on the right side that you have to move out of the way with a screw driver, I think loosening the screws in the back allows for that to be depressed even farther?
I'm pulling mine apart now so I guess I'll find out.
Update: I ended up pulling the switch off entirely because I had so much trouble getting the broken piece out. It's really not that bad with the little screws if you get the ac duct out of the way, it's only 1 screw and the duct pops right out. Removing the switch made the whole job a lot easier for me
At least it broke this morning BEFORE I hit the trail. The bad part is that we have street sweeping tomorrow and I'm gonna get an $80 ticket
. Still better than the time my heater T disintegrated in the middle of death valley, or the time my steering rack cracked in half in the middle of the Mojave. I think this might be the best breakdown I've had!!!
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I've read about this issue before and I'm really tempted to go ahead and spend the money to have it on-hand... seems like the current sale is the time to do it (price shown at Serra Birmingham). Someone posted above with two part numbers depending on manual or electric tilt... assuming the latter is applicable to the LX with electric tilt? The Toyota application is listed as '03+ Land Cruiser, having trouble verifying the correct PN for the LX.
Kind of an old thread but thought I would throw this in here. I crammed a piece of 3/8 trans cooler line inside the barrel to keep the mechanism over to keep the wheel unlocked. I’ll be using a screw driver to start it until the parts come in. It seems like I live a week away from every part I ever need quickly.
Old thread be damned, a lot of us read through these old ones for good information. Thought I’d add my $.02 in case it saves anyone a massive headache somewhere down the line.
I’m all about preventative maintenance when the cost isn’t prohibitive. A new part in this case seems wildly overpriced and I can’t bring myself to drop the coin, so I’ve come up with somewhat of a solution.
My thought after watching a couple videos was why doesn’t anyone put the broken piece back together? I’ll add this is why I called it “somewhat of a solution” as the bond when rebuilding this piece will likely be the weak point and this may not be a permanent fix that makes you feel all warm and fuzzy and confident for years to come. However, it may get you home safe, and I know for many of us that’s the most important thing. Working on things at home, on our own time, absolutely beats urgent field repair every time.
Personally I am making sure I have all the required tools to access the broken part, for starters. I’m also keeping Q-Bond in the truck from now on. This stuff is legit and cures quickly, it’s basically a powder you apply to the broken pieces and then cover with super glue creating an almost instant bond. There are 2 powders included for different materials, the one meant for metal should work in theory. Look it up. If you’re REALLY cheap you can even make some yourself, but will it be as strong? I can afford the $13 and not stress about saving a few bucks. If you have the time jb weld (also carrying) may be a stronger and more permanent fix, but sometimes you just want to get home today.
I know many will opt for the replacement part, and that’s fine. Lot of people with cruisers have the bank to do so and why would I knock that? Mine however has 400k miles and that $ is better spent on other repairs, PM, upgrades, and fuel. Building a house isn’t cheap either. But hopefully this is beneficial info to someone else on a budget and if it saves one person from being stranded it was well worth the time to type up. That’s really what this community is for.
Have fun out there!
I’m all about preventative maintenance when the cost isn’t prohibitive. A new part in this case seems wildly overpriced and I can’t bring myself to drop the coin, so I’ve come up with somewhat of a solution.
My thought after watching a couple videos was why doesn’t anyone put the broken piece back together? I’ll add this is why I called it “somewhat of a solution” as the bond when rebuilding this piece will likely be the weak point and this may not be a permanent fix that makes you feel all warm and fuzzy and confident for years to come. However, it may get you home safe, and I know for many of us that’s the most important thing. Working on things at home, on our own time, absolutely beats urgent field repair every time.
Personally I am making sure I have all the required tools to access the broken part, for starters. I’m also keeping Q-Bond in the truck from now on. This stuff is legit and cures quickly, it’s basically a powder you apply to the broken pieces and then cover with super glue creating an almost instant bond. There are 2 powders included for different materials, the one meant for metal should work in theory. Look it up. If you’re REALLY cheap you can even make some yourself, but will it be as strong? I can afford the $13 and not stress about saving a few bucks. If you have the time jb weld (also carrying) may be a stronger and more permanent fix, but sometimes you just want to get home today.
I know many will opt for the replacement part, and that’s fine. Lot of people with cruisers have the bank to do so and why would I knock that? Mine however has 400k miles and that $ is better spent on other repairs, PM, upgrades, and fuel. Building a house isn’t cheap either. But hopefully this is beneficial info to someone else on a budget and if it saves one person from being stranded it was well worth the time to type up. That’s really what this community is for.
Have fun out there!
I pulled a 2061A out of my 2003 LX470, it looks like 2061B is identical to the 2061A based off the OPs pictures