Broke this off during PHH, how screwed am I? (Temp sensor?) (1 Viewer)

[acai]

I managed to shear off what looks like a thermocouple during the PHH job. The contact looks like it can still connect though. Can anyone tell me what this is?

Thanks

Edit: searched and looks like it's the knock sensor. If it still connects at I good?

 

[baldilocks]

If it was on the side of the block below the PHH, it's the aft knock sensor.

 

[retrofive]

WTGDW

Good news is you can fix it

 

[acai]

WTGDW

Good news is you can fix it

I popped it back on but of course the epoxy is broken so it's not very secure. Can I simply re-epoxy?

 

[retrofive]

I popped it back on but of course the epoxy is broken so it's not very secure. Can I simply re-epoxy?

I wouldn't, I would source the OEM connectors (beno, dealership, etc) and re-pin them in OR get some metric ones (@NLXTACY isn't that what you have been using) and re-do. But that's me.

 

[baldilocks]

I popped it back on but of course the epoxy is broken so it's not very secure. Can I simply re-epoxy?

Whatever repair your conscience will tolerate is usually the best.

I would replace the connector and the knock sensor(s) but that's me.

 

[retrofive]

Ah, sorry, so the knock part of it broke. Maybe time for new knockers?

 

[acai]

Right, epoxy sheared off but space connector is still intact.

 

[blkprj80]

I'd smear dielectric grease on the electrical bits, and epoxy that baby right back on there. The electronic part is likely still intact if you have two pins that engage the mating connector. Use the dielectric grease to keep the epoxy from where you don't want it.

If you could get the sensor piece out of the plug, you might have better luck gluing and taping the chunk back on there. If it is a clean break, as it appears, it should essentially realign itself and be a good glue joint.

Use good epoxy. 5 minute is not as good as 24 hour in this case. JB weld might work pretty well.

 

[TrickyT]

If it's an OBD-II vehicle you're almost certainly going to get an Check Engine light and code P0330.

 

[tominboise]

Buy a new sensor and replace it. You can extract the broken off end of the sensor that's in the plug on the harness and just plug the harness on the new sensor. FWIW, I replaced one knock sensor with a used one from ebay and the other with one from (I believe) Rock Auto. They both work fine.

 

[acai]

Ok, I will temporarily re-epoxy until a replacement arrives. I'm ordering this: Engine Knock sensor New 8961530050 1993-1997 for Lexus LX45 Toyota Land Cruiser | eBay

And it will take a few days to arrive.

To remove the threaded base from the block is it 27 mm? And also, dumb question, do I need to drain the oil before removing? Any tips for removing the wire harness connector to avoid breaking it?

Thanks guys

 

[450LX]

I just went through the same thing. Cough up the money for a knock sensor from Toyota and get this connector:

Look at this on eBay KNOCK SENSOR REPAIR PLUG PIGTAIL PLUG 1998-2003 TOYOTA SIENNA | eBay

There is a post about a 4runner harness that has this connector, but it's wrong. I bought the harness and the connector looks like it will fit but when you look at the sides of the connector you will see that they are opposite of what you need.

Also, you are better off just cutting off your old connector and soldering the new one on and heat shrinking it. I tried disassembling the old connector with no luck.

 

[bigredmachine]

yes it should be a 27mm, no you don't need to drain the oil. try a small pick to get out what left of the sensor in the connector

 

[george_tlc]

There's a reason that many PHH threads recommend removing that knock sensor before catastrophically removing it while swinging spanners and screwdrivers around dealing with the PHH stuff... You aren't the first to break one.

And yeah, easy to remove & replace the sensor without draining any fluids.

cheers,
george.