Brake Woes

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Jan 6, 2005
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Please Help Me!!! I Am A First Time Tlc Owner. My Brakes Go Almost To The Floor With Very Little Stopping Power On The First Depression Of The Peddle. If I Immediatly Let Off And Hit Them Again They Are Rock Hard. All The Brake Cylinders Have Been Changed, New Master Cylinder,,,and Believe Me,,it Has Been Bled To Within An Inch Of Its Life. I Replaced The Vaccum Hose To The Booster. When I Have A Buddy Hit The Brakes I See Air Bubbles Come Up In The Front Reservoir. Is That Normal? Am I Sucking Air Someplace? Is It The Booster? If Anyone Has Seen This Before Please Help.
 
brakes

Sounds like you have air in the lines still, letting the fluid compress. I would bleed the system again from farthest from the mc forward. Good luck. bill
 
What type of Cruiser?

My old 40 brakes were a mess when I bought her. If you have the old four drums
like I do then you have a whole lot of adjusting to do initially.

Even if you have front disk and the rear brakes are way out of adjustment then
you will still have this problem. On my fj62 the rear brakes don't adjust unless you
use the handbrake "parking brake". A questionable design in my book. But if the
owner never uses the handbrake the rear will get out of adjustment rather quickly.

I ended up rebuilding all 8 wheel cylinders on my 40 (I hate to buy new parts when I
can rebuild the original equipment) and now that I've got them
working (and the brakes properly adjusted) she will throw you into the windshield
with the original drum brake setup.

Let us know what type of Cruiser/brake system you have and we will try to help
from there.
 
I HAVE A 1974 FJ40. 4 WHEEL DRUM. SHE IS BEAUTIFUL, RIDES LIKE A TANK, I CAN ONLY IDENTIFY HALF THE SQUEEKS AND GROANS, THE TRANNY WHINE IS LOUD AS HELL,,, I LOVE HER!!!
i FOLLOWED THE HAYENS MANUAL VERBATIM, SHE IS BLED FROM FARTHEST TO CLOSEST, NO BLEED NIPPLELS ON THE MASTER CYLINDER. I HAVE NO IDEA WHERE TO GO NEXT, THE BOOSTER IS BIG BUCKS!! I DONT WANT TO CHANGE THAT FOR NO REASON
 
No bleed on the cylinders? There should be one on each wheel. The cylinders (two for each wheel) should be connected. One of the cylinders (I cannot remember which) will have the bleeder valve.
 
mine did the same thing when i installed a new master cylinder and brake lines. bled tham and it works perfect
 
brakes designed by Satan

My money is on adjustment woes. Tighten the star wheel adjuster til you
can't turn the wheel by hand. Back off 3-5 clicks. Very common problem.
Repeat every few months. 8 wheel cylinders can cause you to go nuts..
OR put in discs. ;-)
I'm a big fan of power bleeders to get all the air out.
 
I agree with Gundy. If they're correctly bled then the shoes need to be pulled up closer to the drums.
 
Gundy is right but i would only back off 2 clicks because i like my brakes tight. i went 5 click the first time but had to pump the brekes to get her to stop, you will have to adjust these about every 5k.
 
Hi everyone,

I made my own power bleeder for bleeding my clutch slave cylinder on my Toyota Dyna BU30.

Get a container eg: bottle cut the top off, get a windscreen washer pump and connect it to your battery. Connect a longer feed pipe to the pump and submerge the pump into the bottle filled with brake fluid.

Connect the feed pipe to the bleeder on the slave cylinder, when this is done remove the cap on the reservoir and connect the wires of the pump to your battery.

You will see the air bubbles appearing at thr reservoir but it will over flow. At least the Landcruisers reservoir is not inside the cab like in the Dyna!!

This way no air will be putback through the system and it is very quick. This would apply to all bleeding. :) :)

Good luck!! :)

ToyotaDyna

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