Brake issues... HELP please

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Broski said:
You have to do an axle swap to get the FZJ brakes on a FJ then you also get the full float axles.
Very common swap and well worth it 😜
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This is on the rear only the front’s bolt right up.
You could order a Powerstop kit with calipers for a 93-97 front and its plug and play.
 
Broski said:
This is on the rear only the front’s bolt right up.
You could order a Powerstop kit with calipers for a 93-97 front and its plug and play.
Click to expand...
I believe the front backing plates are different between the FJ80 and the FZJ80.
 
Broski said:
This makes sense
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Toyota calls them dust shields.
92/92 LH 47704-60050 NLA
91/92 RH 47703-60050 NLA

93-97 LH 47782-60100 still available
93-97 RH 47781-60100 still available

Spindles are the same throughout the years so the newer ones should bolt right on. They're not even that pricey. I might pick up a set to throw on a shelf.
I can't figure out why the knuckles have different part numbers between the models. I had always thought that all 80 Series steering knuckles are the same. Everything outboard of the knuckle is identical, but they list 2 different part numbers for rebuild kits as well.
Perhaps the folks that really know like @OGBeno or @cruiseroutfit can shed some light on the issue. Knowledge is power.
 
jonheld said:
Toyota calls them dust shields.
92/92 LH 47704-60050 NLA
91/92 RH 47703-60050 NLA

93-97 LH 47782-60100 still available
93-97 RH 47781-60100 still available

Spindles are the same throughout the years so the newer ones should bolt right on. They're not even that pricey. I might pick up a set to throw on a shelf.
I can't figure out why the knuckles have different part numbers between the models. I had always thought that all 80 Series steering knuckles are the same. Everything outboard of the knuckle is identical, but they list 2 different part numbers for rebuild kits as well.
Perhaps the folks that really know like @OGBeno or @cruiseroutfit can shed some light on the issue. Knowledge is power.
Click to expand...

Non-ABS vs ABS

Screenshot_20240701_051848_Chrome.webp
 
Caveat... I am not dumb...
But I did a dumb thing.
I have never done LC drum brakes before, and I disassembled both sides without taking a pic or leaving one side alone.
I know, that was dumb.
But here I am. I can't find a video, or pics that correlate to my specific rear end.
1991 LC.
Can anyone help me out?
 
Post # 17 second picture should help.

And ya never take both side apart at the same time.
 
Haven Ridge said:
Wow... Now I really feel stupid. I my defense, my memory is horrible. Multiple TBIs from my military service
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Thank you for your service!

So is mine but I have no good excuse.
Some things I remember perfectly then I can’t remember what I had for lunch 🤪
 
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If you don’t have one you can download a free copy in the resource section.
 
jonheld said:
The majority of the hard parts for the rear brakes are not wear items and can just be cleaned, lubed and reused.
The only hard part that tends to wear out is the short cable with the end stops that runs from the bellcrank and goes under a small pivot.
47616-60010

If the bellcranks are seized, they can be removed, disassembled, cleaned, and lubed. Parts are still available.
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Thanks for this, @jonheld. Was looking this weekend for that part, as I am slowly working thru my brake system now. (Parking Brake Cable- 47616-60010) I have new cylinders, drums and shoes as of yesterday. My bellcranks are pivoting fine, but having issues with the parking brake and proper adjustment of the rear drums. (they are directly related, correct?) Mostly, the parking brake not working unless the cable is adjusted to the max at the handle, and at the very end of its pull. Even then, just barely holding the rear drums from moving. Certainly not enough force to think it is of any use in the mountains off-road. I have adjusted the brake shoes until the parking brake cable is centered in its pivot/clip with the notches, but maybe my rotted cable is causing the issue? The two stoppers on the cable are free to slip back & forth, so I adjusted them to be captured in the notches of the cable guide. (forgot to get pics of that)

I still need to bed the drums with some back road driving, but do you have any hints/tips/tricks as to the parking brake adjustment procedure? The FSM seems a bit vague on this.

Thank you for your continued support and help for us here on this forum.
Cheers!
 
ColoradoBoy said:
Thanks for this, @jonheld. Was looking this weekend for that part, as I am slowly working thru my brake system now. (Parking Brake Cable- 47616-60010) I have new cylinders, drums and shoes as of yesterday. My bellcranks are pivoting fine, but having issues with the parking brake and proper adjustment of the rear drums. (they are directly related, correct?) Mostly, the parking brake not working unless the cable is adjusted to the max at the handle, and at the very end of its pull. Even then, just barely holding the rear drums from moving. Certainly not enough force to think it is of any use in the mountains off-road. I have adjusted the brake shoes until the parking brake cable is centered in its pivot/clip with the notches, but maybe my rotted cable is causing the issue? The two stoppers on the cable are free to slip back & forth, so I adjusted them to be captured in the notches of the cable guide. (forgot to get pics of that)

I still need to bed the drums with some back road driving, but do you have any hints/tips/tricks as to the parking brake adjustment procedure? The FSM seems a bit vague on this.

Thank you for your continued support and help for us here on this forum.
Cheers!
Click to expand...
Couple of things to understand first.
The handbrake and the rear brakes are 1 system, not 2 separate systems like on a FF rear.
If the handbrake is ineffective, then chances are your rear brakes are not working either.
Proper adjustment of the shoes is critical for both to work.

The way I have always done it after installing new shoes or removing the drums, both on a SF and FF rear.
This assumes all internal parts are correctly assembled, lubed, and functional and the handbrake pivot mounted on the rear of the rear axle is working along with the bellcranks and adjusters..

After installing drums, adjust the star wheel until the shoes just start to grab. I tend to do this with tires on the SF as the adjuster hole is in the rear.
Using a prying device of your choice, work the bell crank for that wheel to its limit several times while trying to rotate the tire. This should force the shoes into the correct position and you will be able to rotate the wheel again. Keep tightening the star wheel adjuster and working the bellcrank.
Lather, rinse, repeat until you can no longer rotate the wheel by hand.
Do the same routine for the other side, making sure to keep working the bell cranks which will help to seat the shoes while tightening the adjuster.

Once both wheels are tight, back off the adjuster to the point where the wheels can rotate and you can detect a SLIGHT amount of rubbing. Work the bell cranks again and repeat as necessary. You want a SMALL amount of contact from the shoes to drum so the shoes just float on the drum surface while driving.

ONCE THE SHOES ARE SET UP CORRECTLY you move on to the handbrake cable length/adjusters.
The FSM states 7-8 clicks of the handbrake lever IIRC. This was always too many for me and I would adjust it for 5-6 max. Sometimes 4-5 depending on my mood. Since cables stretch over the years, you will have to play around with yours to get things the way you want on your particular truck.
The number of clicks is dependent on the 2 adjusters at the wheels along with the adjuster at the handle. You'll have to play games with both to get things right. It takes time and effort, but it does work.

Constant use of the handbrake will keep the shoes in proper position and setup as they wear down over time, assuming the adjusters are working properly.
 
jonheld said:
Couple of things to understand first.
The handbrake and the rear brakes are 1 system, not 2 separate systems like on a FF rear.
If the handbrake is ineffective, then chances are your rear brakes are not working either.
Proper adjustment of the shoes is critical for both to work.

The way I have always done it after installing new shoes or removing the drums, both on a SF and FF rear.
This assumes all internal parts are correctly assembled, lubed, and functional and the handbrake pivot mounted on the rear of the rear axle is working along with the bellcranks and adjusters..

After installing drums, adjust the star wheel until the shoes just start to grab. I tend to do this with tires on the SF as the adjuster hole is in the rear.
Using a prying device of your choice, work the bell crank for that wheel to its limit several times while trying to rotate the tire. This should force the shoes into the correct position and you will be able to rotate the wheel again. Keep tightening the star wheel adjuster and working the bellcrank.
Lather, rinse, repeat until you can no longer rotate the wheel by hand.
Do the same routine for the other side, making sure to keep working the bell cranks which will help to seat the shoes while tightening the adjuster.

Once both wheels are tight, back off the adjuster to the point where the wheels can rotate and you can detect a SLIGHT amount of rubbing. Work the bell cranks again and repeat as necessary. You want a SMALL amount of contact from the shoes to drum so the shoes just float on the drum surface while driving.

ONCE THE SHOES ARE SET UP CORRECTLY you move on to the handbrake cable length/adjusters.
The FSM states 7-8 clicks of the handbrake lever IIRC. This was always too many for me and I would adjust it for 5-6 max. Sometimes 4-5 depending on my mood. Since cables stretch over the years, you will have to play around with yours to get things the way you want on your particular truck.
The number of clicks is dependent on the 2 adjusters at the wheels along with the adjuster at the handle. You'll have to play games with both to get things right. It takes time and effort, but it does work.

Constant use of the handbrake will keep the shoes in proper position and setup as they wear down over time, assuming the adjusters are working properly.
Click to expand...
Thank you, Jon! I was mostly on track, I'm going back out to play with it some more. I was kind of seeing it as one system, but after a 12 hour day of working on things, I was getting kind of fuzzy. Sounds like new parking brake cables (drums) and cables (parking brake to bell cranks) would be a good thing.
 
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