Brake Cylinder Adjusting Nut Frozen

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These cylinders were installed new maybe 7-8 years ago, but they probably have less than 5k miles on them. If you look under the dust cover, they still look brand new. Is there any explanation other than rust between the adjusting nut and the cylinder body that would cause the adjusting nut to not turn?

IMG_3975.webp
 
Its likely rusted, debris or lack of use. Brake fluid attracts moisture. I used to grab the adjuster wheel with channel locks or vise grips and twist the adjuster back and forth to free them up. I wheeled a lot so they would rust and stick.
 
My guess rusted in place. When I put in wheel cylinders I lube the outside body of the adjuster with "real red rubber grease" - almost any other grease gets on the seal cup that pushes on the adjuster will cause it to swell/fail. Second I lube the threads on the adjuster with anti seize compound.

Big pair of channel lock pliers with leather hot glued to the jaws will cause the least damage to the adjuster notches. Flat brass punch that fits the notch and a BFH
 
Will the adjuster turn inside the adjustment cylinder? Not that it helps with adjusting.
 
They are semi unique. If you want the adjusting to work correctly as in the adjusting spoon pivots toward the axle to expand thee shoe they have a spot. Or you make a map for each adjuster.
 
Isn't it down in the brake fluid? Not sure how that would work.

negative, the threaded part is not in the brake fluid
when installing new cylinders, unthread the "bolt" from the "nut" and use anti-seize on the threads, then thread back together and you will be able to adjust them for years to come
 
negative, the threaded part is not in the brake fluid
when installing new cylinders, unthread the "bolt" from the "nut" and use anti-seize on the threads, then thread back together and you will be able to adjust them for years to come
I agree with you there, it would work well on the adjusting bolt. It is not the adjusting bolt that is frozen in my cylinder, it is the adjusting nut that is frozen in the piston bore. My adjusting bolts still spin freely, but since the adjusting nut won't spin in the bore the cylinders still won't adjust.
 
I agree with you there, it would work well on the adjusting bolt. It is not the adjusting bolt that is frozen in my cylinder, it is the adjusting nut that is frozen in the piston bore. My adjusting bolts still spin freely, but since the adjusting nut won't spin in the bore the cylinders still won't adjust.

I mistook the issue you are having, thinking the bolt wasn't turning in the nut
the nut part can still have anti-seize on/in it as there is a seal below the nut that separates the fluid from the nut
 
I had a (likely stock) rear wheel cylinder that was hard to adjust for many years, and finally just replaced the wheel cylinder. All the WD40 and anti-seize couldn't set it free. Pounding on it with a chisel and hammer to move the adjust got old for me.
 
Number 1 issue with my drum brakes, I took all wheel cyl off and cleaned them, dressed the adjusting bolt to match the slope on shoe, anti siexed all the adjusters, major diff. And you had asked about wheel cyl's ? differences, the drums had different size wheel cyl, older are smaller, not sure what year they changed but yes they need to be year specific, front/rear specific, & side specific. Shouldn't a 78 be disc ?
 
Number 1 issue with my drum brakes, I took all wheel cyl off and cleaned them, dressed the adjusting bolt to match the slope on shoe, anti siexed all the adjusters, major diff. And you had asked about wheel cyl's ? differences, the drums had different size wheel cyl, older are smaller, not sure what year they changed but yes they need to be year specific, front/rear specific, & side specific. Shouldn't a 78 be disc ?
Fronts are disc. Someday, my rears will be too.
 
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