Brake adjustment help

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flaa1a

flaa1a

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Jul 21, 2009
Threads
152
Messages
1,391
Location
Wichita
I have spent the last 3 months doing a disc brake swap on my 72 40. Everything is back together but the brakes are not working. I have a feeling it has to do with adjustments, and the fact that this will be the first time I have messed with brakes and am clueless.

IF there is anyone in or around WIchita that has a trained eye, I could really use some help.

I teach school so I am off all week for Spring Break. I really am at my wits end.

Randy
 
Randy, I've done probalby 10+ disk brake swaps over the last couple decades, probably more. I kinda perused your thread.. One thing I didn't like is the use of the older master cylinder. And I guess you still have rear drums? I'm also not a fan of those myself as it's normally cheaper and easier to do a disk upgrade than to try and tune those darn things.

Few quick questions / points of discussion
Did you replace soft lines on any of the 4 locations? If not i've seen them cause MASSIVE problems in braking when they swell..
I've seen masters bad from the "rebuilders"
Did anything work before you started messing with it?
Are your lines clear?
why do you think you need a new pushrod? You getting one for the booster? Was the truck "boosted" before your brake swap?
 
Great questions from Erik.

I start simple.... put fluid in cup, then go back to the rear brakes (furthest from master). Open up the bleed screw. Then go back to the master and pump the brakes. you should see movement in the fluid and the fluid should push out the back.

If it is a new master you may need to prime it. I typically bench prime them, but you can do it on the car too. I take a scrap brake line and put it in the output fitting of the master (both) then bend them up and into the cup, so that the fluid comes out of the master and back into the resevoir. Pump until the fluid is moving.
 
well. couple other things to point out.
I've seen boosters actually full of brake fluid. which kills them. You mention somewhere in your thread you had an FJ60 booster? Why not put it on the truck.
And did you or did you not change any soft lines?
lastly , you mention your brake light can stay on? is there a return spring? some boosters have a longer rod because they use a spacer between them and the firewall. Lots of newbies take the spacer out and think the booster will go against the firewall.. Not unless you tap the rod down shorter and cut it to length.

If it were me.. and you've been messing with that as long as you have.. might be worth talking with someone that knows what their doing? Mud is only as good as the regurgitation of information from those that are web wheelers and web mechanics. NOt that many that actually ARE mechanics.

Did the brakes work before you decided to go to disks? When you put the disks on the axle did you use or leave out the dust shield? That can move things.
I've tossed a few questions out..
Good luck.
 
Hey guys....thanks for the input. I will try to answer a few questions.

The MC is a direct replacement of what was on it except it is "new" from Rock Auto. I stuck with it because Jim C had recommended it. The PO had new front cylinders, brakes and booster done in 2009 and I have the reciept. The booster is newly rebuilt, but I took it apart to check to see if there was any fluid in it and there was not. It truly looks new on the outside and inside. Rubber is pliable and not cracked, old, etc....

BRakes worked for around 2 years fine and I had planned to do a disc swap at some point. Around November, while driving, pedal started getting very stiff and I was loosing braking abilities. I pulled into VatoZone to check the MC level and went inside to get some fluid. By the time I came out the brakes were locked up (fronts). Called a tow truck and by the time he got there I could move again...I assume becasue the brakes cooled. Got it home and fiddled with it and one of the cylinders blew...so I decided that then would be a good time for swap.

Put 84 60 knuckles out with new rotors, calipers, bearings, and all that jazz. Ended up having to get a new MC because my old one was leaking between it and the booster (that is why I was checking to see if fluid was in the booster). Got all new brake lines from Rock Auto. The only one I did not replace was the one on the back.

When I put everything back together the front wheels would not turn very easily and when I drove around the block the rotors were VERY hot. SOmeone suggested that the push rod was too long and was engaging the MC without the pedal being pushed and that I should grind a little off. SO I did. Then the wheels turned very freely, but the brakes did not work very well.....

FF to now. I have 4 pushrods. I set one per advice on MUD. Front wheels turn freely, but brakes are really soft. However, they will work if I pump it three or four times. I have bled these dudes alot, but may try again......

I have an appointment to take it in MOnday to a shop, although it is not a landcruiser shop becasue I am too through with it. But, I will continue to eff with it this weekend in hopes that I can save myself some money and get it rigght myself.

Regarding the dust shields...I did not use them. I got the things from Marlin Crawler that got rid of them.

Randy
 
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U had blockage or your booster was on all the time the first situation. The drop down to axle hoses are done. Fold one over in ur hand and look for cracking. Then imagine what the inside looks like. They swell taking the pressure with them in the rubber hose.
But what u have right now is classic bleed issue or bad master. Try rebleeding then report back. Ill subscribe to this so it will notify me.

Sent from my phone using IH8MUD
 
Ur also running into why i hate rear drums. I can do a rear disk swap faster than adjusting those things. Usually cheaper as well.

Sent from my phone using IH8MUD
 
As it sits now the bleeder screws are below the brake lines. It's been suggested to flip to calipers so that the bleed screw is on top of the brake line. So I'm gonna switch which side the calipers are on rebleed and see if that works
 
Ur bleeding should start longest travel hose / run first. So drivers rear first. Your getting there. If one half of the system is correct u will get partial pedal. Then get other half.
And what Rob said. He typed faster

Sent from my phone using IH8MUD
 
When I did one bleed job and the bleeder valve was not on top, I have taken the caliper off, hung it with bungee cords so that the bleeder was straight up, then put a board in the spot that the rotor would be and clamp in in position, then bleed it out.
 
trainrech said:
You are correct, was envisioning standing in front. Beer probably didn't help either.
Click to expand...

Beers are good. Had plenty last night during shocker game.....

But not too much to swap calipers and bleed this morning. Brakes work!!! Great feeling to be done. Thanks fir the insight guys! On to the next project.....but will drive for awhile first.
 
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