Started this morning and 3-4 hrs later it’s installed minus the wiring.
Bosch iBooster Brackets for 60/80 Series – Tested in Moab, Ready to Go
- Thread starter torfab
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Just finished getting the iBooster kit installed this afternoon. Removing the original vacuum booster was probably the biggest headache due to interference with the intake. I ended up using a reciprocating saw to cut the studs to be able to remove it.
Since I had already deleted the ABS and LSPV, I used the ABS wiring for the constant power (black wire with white stripe) and ground (white wire with black stripe). I removed the 60amp ABS fuse and replaced it with a 40amp. For the 5amp ACC wire, I cut the wire going to the defunct rear heater and connected to it, replacing the 20amp fuse with a 5amp.
Since I had already deleted the ABS and LSPV, I used the ABS wiring for the constant power (black wire with white stripe) and ground (white wire with black stripe). I removed the 60amp ABS fuse and replaced it with a 40amp. For the 5amp ACC wire, I cut the wire going to the defunct rear heater and connected to it, replacing the 20amp fuse with a 5amp.
Great idea! Thanks for this. I was debating options on how to wire it up.
Great idea! That’s why I love this forum. Do you have a picture of the wiring? I just want to make sure I’m wiring it correctly. Thanks in advance
Here you go. The ground (white wire, black stripe) was originally connected to the circled black plug with 3 wires going to it. The +12v (black wire, white stripe) is connected to a grey plug that has 4 wires.
For the 5amp wire, I passed it through a grommet and connected it with the rear heater wire coming out of the fuse box to the left of the steering wheel. Once you unscrew it you will be able to see which wire to connect it to. I chose the rear heater since its only on with accessory power and my coolant hoses are already bypassed.
Finished mine up today too. The pedal was a little mushy and odd at first but after the a few pumps, I could feel it was stopping so I backed it out if the garage and it started feeling normal but a little soft. After my test drive, I think that is just the way it feels. Very low effort braking.
The performance is incredible. I have been nervous about my brakes since I got this truck. When I bought it, the LSPV was bad and the rear brakes didn't work at all. Fixed that and it was better but still not confidence inspiring. I was never even able to get my ABS to really engage much. Now it brakes like I want. Feels more like my GX and just STOPS when I want it to. I don't know how it could get better but I'll bleed again just in case since my bleeder was acting up and pumping air before I noticed.
As for the process, it wasn't too bad. I had a few issues but nothing serious. I have a new MC but didn't install it because one brake line just did not want to come off. I didn't want to make new brake lines today so I'll replace the MC some other time since the one in it is working fine. Since I didn't remove the MC, it was a little tight getting the old booster out but not too bad even with the brake lines in the way. The studs on the new one did not want to go through the firewall but after a few tries, I got that in. I had the clevis extension but not the clevis on it so I took out the front seat and had to lay on my back to get the clevis on and adjust the pedal but it didn't need much adjustment from my initial setting. Finally some luck because me at my age and size laying on my back working under that dash like that, is not fun at all. For the 5A switched power, I ran through the firewall and used the same line that my amp is using for now since it is under the drivers seat and easy to get to.
@torfab I can't thank you enough for making this kit. It was great timing for me since my booster died and I ended up with a big brake upgrade for less money than an OEM booster.
The performance is incredible. I have been nervous about my brakes since I got this truck. When I bought it, the LSPV was bad and the rear brakes didn't work at all. Fixed that and it was better but still not confidence inspiring. I was never even able to get my ABS to really engage much. Now it brakes like I want. Feels more like my GX and just STOPS when I want it to. I don't know how it could get better but I'll bleed again just in case since my bleeder was acting up and pumping air before I noticed.
As for the process, it wasn't too bad. I had a few issues but nothing serious. I have a new MC but didn't install it because one brake line just did not want to come off. I didn't want to make new brake lines today so I'll replace the MC some other time since the one in it is working fine. Since I didn't remove the MC, it was a little tight getting the old booster out but not too bad even with the brake lines in the way. The studs on the new one did not want to go through the firewall but after a few tries, I got that in. I had the clevis extension but not the clevis on it so I took out the front seat and had to lay on my back to get the clevis on and adjust the pedal but it didn't need much adjustment from my initial setting. Finally some luck because me at my age and size laying on my back working under that dash like that, is not fun at all. For the 5A switched power, I ran through the firewall and used the same line that my amp is using for now since it is under the drivers seat and easy to get to.
@torfab I can't thank you enough for making this kit. It was great timing for me since my booster died and I ended up with a big brake upgrade for less money than an OEM booster.
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@torfab This seems like a great option to bring our 80's up into the modern world of braking. Thanks for developing this. A couple quick questions:
- Pretty sure the answer is going to be yes, but I assume that this will improve pedal feel, and I don't have to go half way down the pedal stroke to start actually braking?
- Would you consider stainless steel lines a requirement for this setup, or would Toyota soft lines (installed 4 years/35,00 miles ago) be sufficient?
source for these little bench bleeding fitting please?
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I suspect the main thing is that they don't want people blowing out 30 year old lines and trying to blame the new booster. I would think you'll be fine.
There are kits all over Amazon for a few bucks.
That’s what I suspected as well. Thanks.
i also got all the parts on the bench ready to be installed. Excited to finally not having to leg press when braking on super steep decent.
Dorman Products - Aftermarket Auto Parts & OE Solutions - 14151
Master Cylinder Bleeder Kit
I got mine at my FLAPS (friendly local auto parts store).
Probably a stupid question, and quite
likely addressed in the instructions, but I assume that the brake booster vaccum hose is no longer needed. What are people using to cap the vacuum nipple?
Probably a stupid question, and quite
likely addressed in the instructions, but I assume that the brake booster vaccum hose is no longer needed. What are people using to cap the vacuum nipple?
On some of my other vacuum ports that I have capped, I put a small section of new hose, about 1" worth on the nipple, and a stainless steel ball bearing down in the hose to plug it.
I bought a generic parts store vacuum cap assortment several years back and it has been endlessly useful. I'm sure it'll have an application for this as well.
For now I just stuck a big bolt in the line and used the clamp that's on it.
I need to get a cleaner solution but no issues with it.