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Discussion in 'HardCore Corner' started by Mieser, Aug 12, 2016.
what's your instagram handle?
It's awesome seeing your rig come together
I converted the cardboard templates into DEI Heat Shield panels on the underside of the tub. I love this stuff. It worked miracles in my flat fender.
I even found a use for a scrap piece on the support bracket for the air filter to help keep away a little more engine heat. I will hopefully be plumbing cool air into this filter from the cowl and/or hood vent also.
Brennan Metcalf (@brennanmetcalf) • Instagram photos and videos
Dirty Dozen Finalists of Ultimate Adventure 2018 #UA2018
Lol...nice backwards name!!
Thanks guys. My UA entry was only meant as comic relief for the magazine guys. I went twice, more people need to go and experience that trip. I was as shocked as any when I found out I made the dirty dozen.
Here is the original picture I submitted with the app.......a MS paint masterpiece.
Sounds like you need to get bizzy on the build....
I'm not going on UA. I went twice already. My app was only for comic relief and filler.
I love reading about UA, and I really cheered for the guy in the Hummer last year. That said, I don't think they make a small enough scale to denote the level of interest I have in going and sweating in the California desert in the summer.
They won't do the desert every year.....
Or sweating in a Louisiana/Tennessee swamp.... so far it seems their only criteria for choosing areas is the potential for utter, heat-sourced misery.
As I said, I love watching (and reading about) them suffering
Sweet! Unicorns do exist. I got my harness back from 208 Motorsports today. It only took me a bit to get it laid out to install back on the engine and transmission. Now I can install the transfer case and stick the tub back on the chassis this weekend. It feels so good to be able to make some progress again on the #LX45.
Tonight's bite on the #LX45. The transfer case is back in its home. I'm trying to get back in the little bit every night habit.....
A big bite today.....finally!
This little thing is worth its weight in gold. I built this little cradle foot to bolt on my engine hoist. It allows me to lift at the A to C spreader which allows the chassis to swivel and be lifted level to be placed on the chassis.
The cradle is just some angle iron, but long enough that I didn't have to have the exact COG to left things level. The pipe clamps held the chassis down enough to level things out.
Getting the body tub up high enough off the floor to stick the hoist through the door was the hardest part. A possible improvement would be to put an elbow in the hoist arm to give it a little more flexibility.
I couldn't be happier with how this worked. While it still took a little bit of time, it took almost no effort. No cussing or swearing at all either. It was easy to nutdge the tub around and drop it into the body mounts I built into rocker guard outriggers.
I cannot express how good it feels to have the tub back on the chassis! I could strip everything else off, and it would still feel more like a complete vehicle. The tub should be able to stay on for good now.
I still have lots to do, but getting the tub back on really makes it feel possible!
My bite for tonight....
I patched a half dozen holes in the lower center part of the dash. These where new holes from when the tub was flipped. I had removed a bunch of old brackets that where spot welded to the rear of the dash. That made holes. Those holes needed filled.
I used my 'standard' method for this...
The holes where drilled out to the next factional size with a step drill. I cut thin wafers of round bar stock that matches the hole diameter. I hold them in place with a magnet while I tack them with the TIG. Once the magnet is removed I weld them all the way around using small amounts of small diameter filler. I sand the majority of the weld down with a 36 grit 2" rol-loc. A little body hammer work helps get things flat. I finish it off with an 80 grit 2" rol-loc.
Generally, I just try and get better at making everything disappear...
Mini bite on the #LX45 tonight with the front driveshaft install. A big thanks to Tom Woods for building exactly what I needed. This truck is neat because I was able to position the powertrain so I could have equal length front and rear shafts. A common spare will fit either end. All ujoints are also 1310 so I can use a common easy to find spare for that also. I love how high the front shaft is up inside the chassis with the high pinion diff. I won't have to worry too much about rock damage.
Before I cut big holes in the dash again, I wanted to take a bit of time to do a final scale layout and check a few things.
This is the majority of the control center for the #LX45.
-Round thing in the center/middle, is a marine grade round stereo unit.
-The left Carling switch bank will be the lockers ( Front, center, rear )
-The right Carling switch bank will be the On board air, suck down winch, and a USB power port
-The round knobs are Lights, Wipers, Cowl Vent, Heater Fan, Heater Temp
I formed a piece of TIG filler from the step around the bottom flange of the dash. It was cut to the length of the wrap around flange.
This is an accurate model of the dash profile where the switches/knobs will go.....
This is the largest switch I have going in the dash in that area ( wiper delay switch with wash function ). I used the template wire to judge the minimum position for the switch body on the face of the dash. Basically I didn't want to drill the hole and not be able to fit the box! That would make me grumpy.
That information was transferred over the dash for a horizontal datum line.
I was then able to test the spacing of the knobs for looks and clearance from switch body to switch body. I settled on a 3" spacing for the knobs. I will remake the knobs so they all match in this area eventually. Maybe have them 3d printed...
Cutting all sorts of holes in the #LX45 dash today. I swear, can someone just pick a standard hole type already for switches! All the small holes for the key, lights, wipers, heater, etc where all a different style. I like working on my filing skills but come on. I still need a heater temp valve and to rebuild the relay rod for the cowl vent. The marine stereo worked out sweet along with the 3x Carling switch pods. I suggest not clipping the Carling pods in till you are ready to leave them. It took me like 20 minutes to get that sucker back out.
A note on the different holes for the switches. They where all different, but they where all made with a drill bit, a few files, and some time. While it was a complete pain, it was nice to have it done right so they won't rotate in use.
Just take your time, don't try to over think it too much.
FYI, you can still buy a stock toyota switch for early fj40. Not too pricey, and really kinda cool to have toyota key.