Bilstein 4600 install tips and first thoughts

Joined
Feb 26, 2016
Messages
168
Location
Phoenix, AZ
Contents:
Background to upgrade/previous setup
First thoughts
Removal/Installation tips

----Background----
Just installed Bilstein 4600's on all 4 this weekend. Picked them up from 4 Wheel Parts in AZ for 279 out the door. First time doing shocks by myself - if I can do it anyone can! My Hundy is essentially stock except I'm running 285 KO2s. Previously had KYB Excel-G shocks from previous owner and they'd been struggling to dampen especially with the heavier tires (had stock Michelin 275s before). My rig is not lifted so I didn't get the 5100s.

----First Impressions----
After ~200 miles of city/highway driving I absolutely love these shocks. Firm and controlled but by no means jarring on bumps and potholes. Waaaay less body roll. Very excited to try these out up north on the fire roads and light trails.

----Install tips----
PB blaster the crap out of the lower shock mount in the rear. My original shocks were basically seized to the post.

I used a Pittman arm puller to pull the shock off the post. I used a small socket extension just wider than the threads of the post to aid in backing off the shock.
I cleaned the post really well and used anti-seize on the post when putting the new shock on.

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Joined
Jan 27, 2017
Messages
725
Location
Orlando, Fl.
Both, if you have time- but the top, primarily. I've seen some folks actually drill holes in the rear to access the bolts.
 
Joined
Feb 26, 2016
Messages
168
Location
Phoenix, AZ
Both, if you have time- but the top, primarily. I've seen some folks actually drill holes in the rear to access the bolts.
Sure thing man. Take everything with a grain of salt - this method worked for me but I'm sure there's other ways.

I considered drilling through the floorboard, but given that I'll probably stick with these for a while, I just forked up the cash for the tool below and it wasn't too hard. Do the rear driver side first, to get the hang of it, as there's a lot more room without the rear diff and exhaust in your face

TEKTON WRN57122 Flex-Head Ratcheting Combination Wrench, 22 mm - - Amazon.com

Top Nut
If you don't care about minor damage to the shocks your taking off (my case), grab an oil filter/slip wrench and the 22mm flexhead and you'll have them off in a few minutes. First, I broke the bottom bolt loose with my breaker bar and backed it off a few turns. Next, I wiggled one hand up into the area where the upper bolt was and slipped the flexhead over it. If you turn to loosen the bolt the upper part of the shock should rotate.

If you have a groove towards the top of the shock for an adjustable wrench, use that to prohibit rotation of the upper part of the shock. Otherwise, as in my case where there was no groove, use an oil filter wrench to hold the shock in place. You can also try the opposite -- use the flex-head up top to keep the nut in place and just rotate the upper part of the shock. Once the top nut was backed off I removed the bushing sandwich. Took about about 5 minutes of "1-click-at-a-times" to get her off.

Bottom Nut

http://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/pitman-arm-puller/oem-pitman-arm-puller/555623_0/

Rented a pitman arm puller (Autozone part #27016). I hope to god no ones were as seized as mine, but wouldn't hurt to grab it just in case. Spray some PB blaster around both sides of the eyelet on the shock. Back off and remove the lower bolt and clean/place aside for re-use. Once the bolt is out, find a socket that's slightly wider than the threads, so that it'll sit flush against the metal ring. I want to say it was a 7mm 1/4 drive, but double check. The purpose of this was so the tip of the pitman arm screw doesn't go in and narf the threads.

Next, I backed the screw all the way out of the puller and wrapped the jaws behind the eye of the shock. With the socket pressed against the metal housing outside of the threads, I tightened the screw on the puller until they met up. Make sure everything lines up and as you screw in the pitman arm screw it'll start yanking the shock off the post. Once it was off the shock will pop right out. I cleaned the post with a wire brush and some brake clean, then coated the post with anti-seize before slipping the new shock on.

For the new rear shocks, I got the top in first and secured it with just a few thread turns, then lifted/lowered the rear axle until the angle lined up for the bottom eyelet to slide right on. With the suspension still drooping, I just torqued the top/bottom tight enough for the bushing retaining plates to have enough compression that they wouldn't rotate or move around. After putting it back to weight-on-wheels I torqued the bottom to the spec'd 19ft-lb, and I tightened the top enough that the bushings where squished a bit.
 
Joined
Nov 5, 2016
Messages
21
Location
Neenah, Wi
The big question is how you got a set of Bilsteins for $280. I haven't been able to find then for less than $400.
 
Joined
Feb 26, 2016
Messages
168
Location
Phoenix, AZ
I thought that was the right part, but 4WP's website tells me they wont fit my vehicle. No application for a 99 LC or LX. I have a '99 LX that had the AHC removed. The car currently has the Strutmaster kit. I'm looking for a suspension upgrade. There is currently about 50k on the current setup.
The part numbers for the shocks in this deal are:
Front = 24-027397
Rear = 24-027403

I believe those part numbers will fit 1998-2001. A quick call to Bilstein could confirm.
 
Joined
Feb 21, 2015
Messages
11
Quick question for you as I’m installing the 4600 on my ‘99 this afternoon.
One of the front shocks had the 4 washers/plates missing. The 2 bushings were included.
Will I be able to re-use the old washers with the Bilsteins?
 
Joined
Feb 26, 2016
Messages
168
Location
Phoenix, AZ
Quick question for you as I’m installing the 4600 on my ‘99 this afternoon.
One of the front shocks had the 4 washers/plates missing. The 2 bushings were included.
Will I be able to re-use the old washers with the Bilsteins?
I'd imagine the retaining washers should be very similar and will work. Maybe compare them to the new ones that they did provide for the other front shock.

Good luck with the install
 
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