Best ways to paint an fj40

[jim land]

I see a big misconception about single stage paint vs base clear

Single stage is NOT less shiny , you can make it mirror finish

Clear coat is a good choice with metalic color , so it can be buff without touching the metalic

 

[macdaddy59]

MaTTi

So the company that galvanized my frame also galvanized my tub. I installed alot of braces to help with mainly the handling of the tub from the crane and any slight warpage that may occur. They soaked it in an acid bath for several days then preheated it and then dipped it. I think their secret was to let it air dry and not quench it in their bath rinse which minimized any warpage. It came out beautiful. I did not detect any warpage and if there was it will be fixed with some body work that I was going to need to do already. I will upload all of my pics in a separate thread titled Galvanized Tub later this week for you to see.

 

[Engineer8000]

This thread gave me inspiration for getting started on the body work for my 73. The garage will become a paint booth. I like the thought of using the single stage Rustoleum paint, easy touch up if needed in the future. Lower budget but still looks good.

 

[Toyoland66]

Thanks all, and thanks @Jackson Hanes for starting the thread.

I’ve sandblasted my frame prior to painting and I’m really glad I did. For the tub and other panel pieces however I am concerned with the metal being much thinner than frame and the risk of damaging them. I asked my sandblasting guy and he said he could use less aggressive mediums and that it shouldn’t be a problem. Has anyone here sandblasted the body prior to painting? It could save a ton of prep work for me.

Look into dustless blasting, it’s blasted wet so puts less heat into the panel

 

[Ocho77]

Another fan of Tamco. Great paint and awesome customer service.

 

[ron1]

Pura Vida,

What is Bezel Police?

 

[avicenna110]

Pura Vida,

What is Bezel Police?

I think in your last picture the bezel is upside down. The thick portion should be on top.

Ps: it’s also upside down in my profile pic but shhhh…

 

[awynne56]

i wish I could have had the room for a paint booth. But all I had was my drive way. i used all rattle can. But good stuff. I used 2k epoxy primer and spray max single stage 2 k paint I got Oem color made for me at Route 66 auto color. I think all, and all it came out to about 1000 . I can get a can made at anytime from them. It’s a solid paint

 

[h82crash]

Pura Vida,

What is Bezel Police?

Wow, a year here and this is the first time you've been cited by the Bezel Police? They're slackin'. Must be defunded.

 

[Pura Vida]

Pura Vida,

What is Bezel Police?

Well, the FJ40 is supposed to have the thick side of the bezel on the top, but sometimes it gets switched around. It’s a little FJ40 inside joke whenever an upside down bezel is seen. Here is my bezel for reference

Notice the white bezel has a thicker and skinnier side. Most people don’t even notice until it’s pointed out

 

[ron1]

Oh my gosh, thanks.

Will flip it today.

 

[fyton2v]

Oh my gosh, thanks.

Will flip it today.

It's too late.

 

[Clubtroy]

I used a nine dollar harbor freight paint gun and the cheapest Nason single stage automotive paint I could find.
Sanded the truck, primer on the bare spots, and just painted it. My truck is obviously not a show rig, but it came out nice.View attachment 2849496

Nice rig Skidplate. Where did you get those headlight protectors?

 

[skidplate]

Nice rig Skidplate. Where did you get those headlight protectors?

they were on it when I bought it. sorry don't know where they came from.

 

[TexFJ]

I sanded mine, primed and painted with PPG MTK, single stage urethane. Used the same on a previous vehicle, still looks fine.
Here are some pict's, (View attachment 2851470View attachment 2851471View attachment 2851472View attachment 2851473View attachment 2851481View attachment 2851474View attachment 2851477View attachment 2851480View attachment 2851479Was there View attachment 2851476I miss the goat):

When you got the 40, was there anything in the smaller hole in the bumperette? I have these holes as well but always wondered if there was an accessory attached of PO drilled.

 

[aregan87]

Saw this thread and thought I would ask for some opinions… just bought this 40 and most all body work is done(a few spots that need to have more body filler on Left Rocker)… my question is similar to those above, enamel or clear coat? Self paint, or pay someone like Maaco(this is not a show truck, it’s a running around town, to the beach, light trail riding, etc). I’m also painting in stages starting with the tub, doors, hood and windshield. Just trying to weigh my options.

 

[aregan87]

Saw this thread and thought I would ask for some opinions… just bought this 40 and most all body work is done(a few spots that need to have more body filler on Left Rocker)… my question is similar to those above, enamel or clear coat? Self paint, or pay someone like Maaco(this is not a show truck, it’s a running around town, to the beach, light trail riding, etc). I’m also painting in stages starting with the tub, doors, hood and windshield. Just trying to weigh my options.View attachment 3152781

It is already covered in Self etching primer from PO.

 

[Skreddy]

You’ll need to find a topcoat that will work well with the etching primer. Likely, the whole thing will need scuffed, like with a scotch brite pad, within days before painting. I would try to get it sprayed in an epoxy primer, then do any body work, then seal with the same epoxy primer reduced down. I like to try and use the same manufacturer for all paints, so if you used a nason paint, use their epoxy and topcoat, etc.
I’d use a single stage urethane enamel or similar. Whether you should do it yourself or not depends on your space, time and painting skill level. Also, what’s the temps like where you are and can you keep the parts being painted at a consistent temp for 2-3 days?

Any reason you can’t paint all the parts at once instead of over time?

 

[aregan87]

You’ll need to find a topcoat that will work well with the etching primer. Likely, the whole thing will need scuffed, like with a scotch brite pad, within days before painting. I would try to get it sprayed in an epoxy primer, then do any body work, then seal with the same epoxy primer reduced down. I like to try and use the same manufacturer for all paints, so if you used a nason paint, use their epoxy and topcoat, etc.
I’d use a single stage urethane enamel or similar. Whether you should do it yourself or not depends on your space, time and painting skill level. Also, what’s the temps like where you are and can you keep the parts being painted at a consistent temp for 2-3 days?

Any reason you can’t paint all the parts at once instead of over time?

A lot is budget. Just don’t have the cash to shell out immediately. I also have Zero experience painting a vehicle. I still need to remove paint from hatch, and upper side panels.

I don’t really have the space to do the painting myself. The temperature is not too much of an issue, I’m in Charleston, SC so humidity is more my problem.

PO did an epoxy primer over the etching, and advised that it would need to be sanded down and redone anyway.

 

[Skreddy]

I know lots of guys that have pretty good looking Maaco paint jobs. The secret I’ve heard is get their paint special but pay for 2 on the same car (second is usually a little cheaper). What this does is double the amount of prep, paint and primer.
Doing as much of the prep work yourself as you can helps this too; you may give them something better to start with and they don’t spend their prep time on things you could’ve done.