Best suspension on FJ40. Need advice.

[SEAWOLF]

@farreem did you use the 2.5 procomp? what exact shackles (oem? p/n?) and where did you buy them? Any photos? Do you like the pro-comp supplied shocks? I think yours looks to have the best ride height and level from my exhaustive search.

@SouthBostonFJ40 Can you tell me what model Bilstein you used? Does anyone one know what model or length Bilstein to use with an OME 2.5 Lift?

 

[Tony_Farson]

@farreem did you use the 2.5 procomp? what exact shackles (oem? p/n?) and where did you buy them? Any photos? Do you like the pro-comp supplied shocks? I think yours looks to have the best ride height and level from my exhaustive search.

@SouthBostonFJ40 Can you tell me what model Bilstein you used? Does anyone one know what model or length Bilstein to use with an OME 2.5 Lift?

I'll chime in here b/c I just wrapped up my investigation into this and here's what I have decided for my 40.

1. Move spring mounts out by 1". This combined with the Atlas springs mentioned in #2 will make for a much better ride.
2. 4" Atlas Expedition Springs (I'm going with hard top specs)
3. longer 2" shock mounts (BTB/Man-A-Free sells them for sure)
4. U-bolt flip kit
5. Shackle reversal (I'm considering Revolver Shackles, but may fall back to SR)
6. Bolt it all up, tow it to a shop with an RTI ramp and have them take measurements of front and rear suspension fully compressed and extended.
7. Order shocks, brake lines, limiting straps of choice based on those measurements
8. Install swaybar w/disconnects.

As mentioned by someone else on this thread, a setup like this should get 12-14" of travel on a leafspring rig w/o SOA and keep it safe on the pavement.

 

[MyCruiserisaHogBeast]

I'll chime in here b/c I just wrapped up my investigation into this and here's what I have decided for my 40.

1. Move spring mounts out by 1". This combined with the Atlas springs mentioned in #2 will make for a much better ride.
2. 4" Atlas Expedition Springs (I'm going with hard top specs)
3. longer 2" shock mounts (BTB/Man-A-Free sells them for sure)
4. U-bolt flip kit
5. Shackle reversal (I'm considering Revolver Shackles, but may fall back to SR)
6. Bolt it all up, tow it to a shop with an RTI ramp and have them take measurements of front and rear suspension fully compressed and extended.
7. Order shocks, brake lines, limiting straps of choice based on those measurements
8. Install swaybar w/disconnects.

As mentioned by someone else on this thread, a setup like this should get 12-14" of travel on a leafspring rig w/o SOA and keep it safe on the pavement.

What shocks are you using? I moved to Fox Remote resi's with adjustable compression dampening and it's pretty awesome. I'm in an FJ60 now, so it got heavier. It's nice to run them pretty soft on the street, I can turn them up on dirt roads and have a good time without worrying about breaking a shock mount off. You'll probably want to do an extended upper shock mount in the front in order to squeeze a long shock in there.

 

[Tony_Farson]

What shocks are you using? I moved to Fox Remote resi's with adjustable compression dampening and it's pretty awesome. I'm in an FJ60 now, so it got heavier. It's nice to run them pretty soft on the street, I can turn them up on dirt roads and have a good time without worrying about breaking a shock mount off. You'll probably want to do an extended upper shock mount in the front in order to squeeze a long shock in there.

Thanks for the info on your experience with the Fox shocks. I have been unsure as to whether I wanted to mess with adjustable shocks as it seems like a hassle to me. But more advanced wheeling isn't something I have done much of and perhaps I need to reconsider.

Regarding shock brands: I am undecided. I have been looking at King, Icon, Fox, and Bilstein. I will make the final decision once I have my measurements and can do some research on the products that match my specs. I was very excited about Bilstein, but I called them to discuss options and they dismissed me simply by stating "we don't make a shock for your application." Which is BS. Icon was similar. King was fabulous and so was Fox.

I will be getting the extended shock mounts for the front for sure. They were in my list of recommendations (#3).

 

[farreem]

@farreem did you use the 2.5 procomp? what exact shackles (oem? p/n?) and where did you buy them? Any photos? Do you like the pro-comp supplied shocks? I think yours looks to have the best ride height and level from my exhaustive search.

@SouthBostonFJ40 Can you tell me what model Bilstein you used? Does anyone one know what model or length Bilstein to use with an OME 2.5 Lift?

@farreem did you use the 2.5 procomp? what exact shackles (oem? p/n?) and where did you buy them? Any photos? Do you like the pro-comp supplied shocks? I think yours looks to have the best ride height and level from my exhaustive search.

@SouthBostonFJ40 Can you tell me what model Bilstein you used? Does anyone one know what model or length Bilstein to use with an OME 2.5 Lift?

I am using the procomp 2.5" lift with procomp supplied shocks. The shackles are stock length with greasable pins. I bought them off ebay used. The ride quality is great and I have no complaints but I have developed the driver's side cruiser lean. It seems to be about an inch lower. I installed the CCOT plate on the passenger rear and not much changed. I then installed the plate on the passenger front with no change. I think it just has to do with the weight of the spare tire, driver, intake/exhaust manifold etc. I need to dig deeper to see if I can correct it.

I hope this helps.

 

[Captn Conch]

I went with the Pro Comp 2.5" lift kit a few months ago. I used stock length shackles. What I found was the Pro Comps when installed on stock shackles are great. I needed no anti inversion style shackles as those leaf springs lay in there just as they should. In my case, I had to lengthen both drive shafts, as they were modded years ago when the GMC 350 went in. I haven't heard that being the case on stock driveshafts? I have no "40" lean on mine and they are working great. I had to lift d/t the new 33x10.50-15 replacing old 9.50s.
Price was right. Installed 'em myself on garage floor with no help. Took awhile but I know they are in correctly. Very happy with Pro Comp kit.

 

[Warloc]

Skyjacker would be my recommendation. You can buy all four for around $600 bucks and they are quiet and a soft ride. Made in USA too!

 

[BlueMarblePA]

Does anybody have air suspension? There is one for sale local to me, and before I go and look at it, I am curious what others think. It also has electronic throttle control.

 

[JohnJL]

What shocks are you using? I moved to Fox Remote resi's with adjustable compression dampening and it's pretty awesome. I'm in an FJ60 now, so it got heavier. It's nice to run them pretty soft on the street, I can turn them up on dirt roads and have a good time without worrying about breaking a shock mount off. You'll probably want to do an extended upper shock mount in the front in order to squeeze a long shock in there.

Could you please post which model Fox shocks you used? Even in corresponding with a Fox rep he couldnt find an appropriate model for 4 corners and a stabilizer for an FJ40...

 

[Tony_Farson]

Could you please post which model Fox shocks you used? Even in corresponding with a Fox rep he couldnt find an appropriate model for 4 corners and a stabilizer for an FJ40...

I'll chime in on this one, if you don't mind.

I am by no means a pro, but from what the folks at King and Icon have told me, application is not important. All you need to know is how much travel you will need and find the appropriate mount type. This is why I plan to take my 40 to a local shop to have both collapsed and fully extended measurements taken on an RTI, then order the correct shocks from there. I also found this Shock Mount Conversion kit that might make it easier to find shocks.

I did find these Fox Shocks at 4WP listed as suitable for stock 40 series, but I doubt they will allow for a lot of articulation. You might be able to talk with 4WP and let them know you need a version of those shocks that allow for X amount of travel.

 

[germaneighter]

This thread made me remember - about (40) years ago, when I took Auto Mechanics at Oklahoma State Tech, we would re-arc springs on a regular basis. We would disassemble the leaf pack and trace each one on the shop floor with chalk. Then we would go to the hydraulic ram press loaded with an old brake drum as the female die. We would hit each leaf in about 3-4 spots, close to it’s center-point, until the spring showed about a 1”-2” rise at either end of the traced arc on the floor. Assemble the pack and they were good to go. No heat and no added leaf was used.

Although this is a pretty low-tech method, it is something most DIYs can do in their own shop with a cheap Harbor Freight press and a few hours.

 

[Tony_Farson]

This thread made me remember - about (40) years ago, when I took Auto Mechanics at Oklahoma State Tech, we would re-arc springs on a regular basis. We would disassemble the leaf pack and trace each one on the shop floor with chalk. Then we would go to the hydraulic ram press loaded with an old brake drum as the female die. We would hit each leaf in about 3-4 spots, close to it’s center-point, until the spring showed about a 1”-2” rise at either end of the traced arc on the floor. Assemble the pack and they were good to go. No heat and no added leaf was used.

Although this is a pretty low-tech method, it is something most DIYs can do in their own shop with a cheap Harbor Freight press and a few hours.

I did this on my first 40 and a few other rigs too when I was a broke guy in my teens and 20s. The only problem is that re-arched springs will begin to sage within months of putting them back on the rig.

 

[JohnJL]

Thanks Tony, and appreciate the response. I do plan to follow your suggestion above to assemble everything and then check articulation to measure the shock ranges. The problem that has though is it presumes no movement of the shock pickup points will be necessary. Or you dont mind cutting/grinding/welding on a freshly finished and rebuilt frame and axle housing. I really want to get all the fab work done before re-mounting the body/engine/etc.

I do have to disagree that all shocks are the same, I have a fair amount of experience and the tolerances, rebuildability, support and quality of materials are all significant considerations for me at least. I have had a ~20 year relationship with Fox and am keen to try and use them if I can. I see ICON uses them though I havent driven one myself or spoken to someone using/maintaining one so that is a weak reference overall. Anyone who says "shocks are shocks" would give me pause to wonder how their product tolerances, rebuidability, support and material quality stack up against others?

Please do keep sharing, and I appreciate the input! I am in Germany for a few weeks now but when I get back perhaps I will throw the new Alcan springs and CCOT shackles on the frame/axles and start lifting wheels with the lift to check shock point changes?

J

 

[Tony_Farson]

Thanks Tony, and appreciate the response. I do plan to follow your suggestion above to assemble everything and then check articulation to measure the shock ranges. The problem that has though is it presumes no movement of the shock pickup points will be necessary. Or you dont mind cutting/grinding/welding on a freshly finished and rebuilt frame and axle housing. I really want to get all the fab work done before re-mounting the body/engine/etc.

I do have to disagree that all shocks are the same, I have a fair amount of experience and the tolerances, rebuildability, support and quality of materials are all significant considerations for me at least. I have had a ~20 year relationship with Fox and am keen to try and use them if I can. I see ICON uses them though I havent driven one myself or spoken to someone using/maintaining one so that is a weak reference overall. Anyone who says "shocks are shocks" would give me pause to wonder how their product tolerances, rebuidability, support and material quality stack up against others?

Please do keep sharing, and I appreciate the input! I am in Germany for a few weeks now but when I get back perhaps I will throw the new Alcan springs and CCOT shackles on the frame/axles and start lifting wheels with the lift to check shock point changes?

J

I am working under the assumption that I will accept the amount of articulation possible with the stock setup, with the exception of adding the 2" shock tower and 1" forward on the axle position. I may have to go back to the drawing board at some point, but I am not building a rock crawler, just a very capable (I hope) trail rig that can handle some riverbeds and mild rock gardens.

I should have been more clear about my "a shock is a shock" comment. That comes from my experience with Bilstein and OME when they dismissed me with a terse "we don't make remote resi shocks for your application." I certainly agree with you when it comes to purpose built, high quality vs. Monroe. LOL I simply meant that if you know your measurements and mounting type, that "application" doesn't matter.

Of all the places I have called so far, King has impressed me the most with their customer service. However, they are VERY pricey!

Do you have a build thread? I do, but it has been neglected lately. Will you share yours?

My 68 Build Post

Feel free to check my blog out too if you are interested. I am doing it for my own satisfaction, not really for anyone else, but I hope to get better at sharing. I am old school and tend to just go wrench without thinking about cameras and such.

Bighorn Cruiser Build

 

[69LC]

If you have a forklift available you won’t need an RtI ramp.

 

[Tony_Farson]

If you have a forklift available you won’t need an RtI ramp.

A hi-lift with a tire craddle might do it too, but I wouldn't want to be the one crawling under it to take measurements! I have a trailer with a winch now, but I used to use my AAA membership to have my rigs towed to shops. Works great.

 

[JohnJL]

Hi Tony,
Here's my thread...a full frame-off back-to-metal "resto-mod" with a light and hopefully tasteful emphasis on the mods....


1974 FJ40 Restoration Build Thread

 

[Tony_Farson]

Hi Tony,
Here's my thread...a full frame-off back-to-metal "resto-mod" with a light and hopefully tasteful emphasis on the mods....


1974 FJ40 Restoration Build Thread

NICE! You are certainly moving faster than I am. I haven't done major work on a vehicle like this since I was a teenager, so I am buying parts and tools to do the things I want to do. Add to that my trepidation and "slow and steady" is my cadence! I'll keep an eye on your thread.

 

[sproggy]

NICE! You are certainly moving faster than I am. I haven't done major work on a vehicle like this since I was a teenager, so I am buying parts and tools to do the things I want to do. Add to that my trepidation and "slow and steady" is my cadence! I'll keep an eye on your thread.

that's rather exactly my speed these days.

 

[JackA]

I'll chime in on this one, if you don't mind.

I am by no means a pro, but from what the folks at King and Icon have told me, shocks are shocks. All you need to know is how much travel you will need and find the appropriate mount type. This is why I plan to take my 40 to a local shop to have both collapsed and fully extended measurements taken on an RTI, then order the correct shocks from there. I also found this Shock Mount Conversion kit that might make it easier to find shocks.

I did find these Fox Shocks at 4WP listed as suitable for stock 40 series, but I doubt they will allow for a lot of articulation. You might be able to talk with 4WP and let them know you need a version of those shocks that allow for X amount of travel.

Wow.....you could not be more wrong. Shocks are not shocks and all shocks are not created equal. Have you ever heard of valving? It's what makes a shock a shock. There are a ton of variables that need to be addressed......if you want the best performance out of a shock package.