Best method to secure DIY storage drawers (1 Viewer)

[brizzle]

I am currently designing some storage drawers for my 100. I have looked at tons of posts but can' figure out the best way to secure them and how those methods hold up over time. Can you let me know what has worked for you.

Here are the following ideas i have picked up and pros and cons.

1. Turnbuckles to the luggage D-rings - looks easy to implement and makes removal easy but can those rings truly support the load?

2. Longer bolts through floor of drawers and into mounting locations for third row mounts. This seems strongest but worried about getting the holes precise enough and seems like a challenge to remove.

3. U-bolts to third row mounting rods - seems less secure than number 1 or 2 and not convenient like 2 so Iv'e ruled this one out.

Let me know what you think thanks!

 

[dfinn]

I used option 1. It's kept the drawers from moving. Seems secure although to be honest I'm not totally sure how it would hold up in a crash.

 

[savirc]

After driving my self crazy on all the different methods and spending/buying all kinds of fasteners. I went with option 1. I was overthinking it I think. It was the easiest method for easy removal though you are only able to fasten 3 corners with that method if you are using existing anchors.

 

[cruzerDave]

I am currently designing some storage drawers for my 100. I have looked at tons of posts but can' figure out the best way to secure them and how those methods hold up over time. Can you let me know what has worked for you.

Here are the following ideas i have picked up and pros and cons.

1. Turnbuckles to the luggage D-rings - looks easy to implement and makes removal easy but can those rings truly support the load?

2. Longer bolts through floor of drawers and into mounting locations for third row mounts. This seems strongest but worried about getting the holes precise enough and seems like a challenge to remove.

3. U-bolts to third row mounting rods - seems less secure than number 1 or 2 and not convenient like 2 so Iv'e ruled this one out.

Let me know what you think thanks!

I tried all of the above as I was designing the KISS Drawers and my conclusions were:

1. Interfere with access to the side areas, which I really wanted to preserve. I also think the bolt securing the D-ring to the frame was smaller than the seat bracket one, so that budged me to the seat brackets. Also, be careful about over-tightening as one of the hardest/most critical things with drawers are to have them be square for good movement. Turn-buckles can be easily over-tightened and depending on where you mount to the drawers, could pull you out of square.

2. Not so difficult to hit the holes as you might think. Biggest issue here is it harder to move in/move out the drawers, which may or may not be important to you. The bolt needs to take the place of the bracket bolt, which means you have to swap it back when removing. Also, the plastic covers on the brackets needs to be removed, but that's no biggie. The bolt you want is a 10x1.25, I was using 50mm long. Not easy to find around town.

3. What I settled on. Easier to install than #2 since there is slop in the fitment to a bar than a hole, easy to access with drawers removed, and I believe (4) U-bolts 1/4" thick are quite strong. Not sure why you feel they would be less secure???

Just my 0.02...

 

[brizzle]

I tried all of the above as I was designing the KISS Drawers and my conclusions were:

1. Interfere with access to the side areas, which I really wanted to preserve. I also think the bolt securing the D-ring to the frame was smaller than the seat bracket one, so that budged me to the seat brackets. Also, be careful about over-tightening as one of the hardest/most critical things with drawers are to have them be square for good movement. Turn-buckles can be easily over-tightened and depending on where you mount to the drawers, could pull you out of square.

2. Not so difficult to hit the holes as you might think. Biggest issue here is it harder to move in/move out the drawers, which may or may not be important to you. The bolt needs to take the place of the bracket bolt, which means you have to swap it back when removing. Also, the plastic covers on the brackets needs to be removed, but that's no biggie. The bolt you want is a 10x1.25, I was using 50mm long. Not easy to find around town.

3. What I settled on. Easier to install than #2 since there is slop in the fitment to a bar than a hole, easy to access with drawers removed, and I believe (4) U-bolts 1/4" thick are quite strong. Not sure why you feel they would be less secure???

Just my 0.02...

Thanks that really gives me something to think about! I guess I figured with the u-bolts with #3 there would be some potential to slide around but I might be overthinking it and this may be the easiest and most secure way to get it done.

 

[RobRed]

Option 2. Bolt to the floor. Easy. Safer.

YOu'll need to remove third row seat brackets, but lets be honest you're never going back.

 

[cruzerDave]

Definitely NO sliding with the U-bolts. I can literally grab my drawers and rock them back and forth and the entire truck moves.

 

[RobRed]

You can flip my land cruiser up side down an the drawers are not budging... bolted to the floor.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Fill them up where are they going to go

 

[Squatch43]

Got mine used from a guy who totaled his 100. He used option 3 u bolts. Survived the head on and they did not budge. Not ever coming out of my 100 I hope?!?

 

[RobRed]

U Bolts are fine but why would you use them with 8 perfectly good anchor points already there in the floor.

 

[abuck99]

Definitely NO sliding with the U-bolts. I can literally grab my drawers and rock them back and forth and the entire truck moves.

Dave

I would like to see a picture of the Ubolt tiedown on your system.

 

[brianrride]

Option 2 for me.

Solid

 

[Patineto]

8mm steel rivnuts, same ones that hold the roof rack

 

[brizzle]

Option 2 for me.

Solid

View attachment 1340152

Very nice especially choice of beer!

 

[catz]

I fixed U-bolt on the drawer with turnbuckle (hooks both sides) and some removable treadlocker cling onto the luggage tie down.

 

[hifu]

My drawers, and pocket holes, run clear to the front seats. I used turnbuckles on the rear and secured the front to the 2nd row seat lockdowns