@Badlarry did you ever get this sorted out?
Bench testing globes?
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- #22
Believe it or not; its still at the Indy Lexus shop. They said the aftermarket globes were bad, I exchanged them for another new set. That was maybe a month ot more ago. I heard nothing so I called, the service advisor said they had to fit it back into the schedule after completing some other work.
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Did you give then another set of aftermarket globes?
We through a monkey wrench in, when parts aren't to spec. Although most of these junk AM globes. work okay out of the box. They just don't last. They can't handle higher pressure and fail fast.
Did I miss:Good evening, my fiancee and I have our 03 LX at the local Lexus Indy for a shave and a haircut. They did a rear AC delete, a new exhaust, and they installed 4 new globes which I provided. I went the frugal route (I know-I know) and bought 4 off brand from an ebay seller (good reviews). I’ll attach the report from after they installed them but basically they’re telling me that they believe the precharge in the globes isnt where its supposed to be. I verified that they ruled out all other contributing components, pump, screen, 4 way valve, solenoids, main accumulator, height sensors, and rear springs so we’re not chasing our tail. They verified this and have narrowed it down to the globes. Question here is; can the globes be bench tested for what should be the proper precharge? They’re saying that they cant get the PSIs/Mpa-g where they’re supposed to be. I know just enough about this system to be dangerous but by no means an expert. Thanks in advance. View attachment 4017673
Why did you replace globes in the first place. Were you having some ride issue, trying to correct/improve?
Were pressure checking before R&R of the factory/old globes? What were they?
How do you know its not had a sensor lift, by some PO?
If I saw those pressures coming in. I'd suspect sensor lift. I'd be looking at each sensor arm position. Pictures of each sensor, may be revealing.
I have run into issue where pressure keep, changing (going higher). It was electrical faulty. One where a wire housing block (WHB), under DS rear 1/4. Where a group of wires harnesses exit the cabin, to undercarriage. Seems water had been getting in AHC WHB and for years. It became in time, very susceptible to moisture.
It was a difficult to find. As we first found bad hieght sensors. Where ball in arm of sensor(s) frozen/rusted. R&R sensor. I then found air in system, which can also give bad reads and graduations count. Flushed & adjusted all good, for awhile. We'd drive, and all good, for awhile. Then found had to keep adjusting T-bar CW, as pressures keep going up. Due to repeatedly having to CW T-bar, bring pressure in to spec. Ran out of T-bar adjustment/treads. Finale found a WHB that looked curdy inside. Cleaned it up all finally good a stable.
Circle back around. Why did you replace globes?
Inside AHC rear 1/4 WHB
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- #24
Yes.
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- #25
I didnt replace the globes; I provided them in the event they needed them. The ride was classic jarring pogostick. I’m not 100% sure what they’ve done; I havent looked at a service report yet.
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- #26
Because its not lifted.
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- #27
Very interesting. I’ll see what happens after this next go-round when they get it back in the garage.
Giving same aftermarket globes, not best idea.
Pogostick ride, is likely blown globes. But not always.
Globes blow, for a few reasons.
Number 1) Pressure to high, for too long.
2- Harsh environment, reduce life.
3-Age. Better than 25 year expected. Even longer, if pressure (Mpa) keep in line in mild climates.
kept even near spec pressure. I've seen 2000 with 450k miles and globes still getting over 8 grads.
I've also seen other reason for pogostick ride. One of those is air in system. Which also can reduce ride height. I just had a case, where I was sure a blown globe. Pull globes to replace, inspecting each as I did. None were blown. All passed pencil test, with plenty of back pressure. Air was in system. Flush and place old globes on, all Mpa good with over 9 grads and good ride.
Do they/you still have the old globes?
So each can be inspected. A blown globe, the cross/top of bladder just inside. Will be a black hole instead of silver cross, or fail pencil easily.
Are you a 100 series expert. That a stated, without facts or detail to support it. Detail how do you know this?
Just because it doesn't appear lifted. Doesn't means it not. Position of sensor arms, is telling.
Clear Pictures of sensor, may be revealing.
Good to know.
I've thought I have noticed in the past that what I was expecting to be a bad globe still had fluid inside unlike the globe I expected to be good and actually reinstalled.
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- #30
Yeah, well the replacement set is what we’re working with currently.
I appreciate that information and will likely reference this thread if the current wrench finds this set of globes “bad”. At that point I’ll reevaluate what they’ve done and we’ll have a discussion.
Yeah, In most cases that's what I find also, "Excessive fluid in globe".
@Badlarry if you're a visual learner (and engineer) like me who was new to the system and dealt w/ a local Lexus dealer who couldn't get my mPa in spec I'd check out this awesome video from @suprarx7nut . You could even share the checklist w/ the tech at your indy shop. This gave me a much better understanding of the system. I'm looking forward to bleeding the system and replacing the fluid this spring or whenever my Serra parts AHC fluid order from black friday sale finally ships.
In my case I had replaced the lower control arms myself and then went to the dealer for an alignment and torsion bar adj/leveling procedure. Figured they'd have an easier time doing that on the alignment rack than I would in the driveway. After a couple of tries they couldn't get the pressures in spec (or even close to my pre control arm replacement readings. Eventually I gave up - came home and turned each side an additional 5 turns and got myself much closer.
In my case I had replaced the lower control arms myself and then went to the dealer for an alignment and torsion bar adj/leveling procedure. Figured they'd have an easier time doing that on the alignment rack than I would in the driveway. After a couple of tries they couldn't get the pressures in spec (or even close to my pre control arm replacement readings. Eventually I gave up - came home and turned each side an additional 5 turns and got myself much closer.
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- #34
This just in from the shop:
We have adjusted the front torsion bars to a point where the neutral ride height is above spec and the pressures are still too high. We have checked over the rear pressures, the springs are sagging slightly, but not enough to suggest the 3 MPa-g difference from spec.
I’m wondering if these statements could be valid in my situation:
Tightening torsion bars transfers more vehicle weight to the mechanical springs, reducing the load (and pressure) the AHC hydraulics must handle. If they’ve truly cranked enough to exceed stock front hub-to-fender height (~19.5-20” at Neutral, empty vehicle) and pressure hasn’t dropped into spec, the torsion bars themselves are likely fatigued/sagged beyond what the adjusters can compensate for. This is frequent on high-mileage 100-series; the bars lose spring rate over time, forcing AHC to overwork.
Even “slight” sag on original 2003 coils (now 23 years old) commonly causes 2-4 MPa-g excess pressure. Seems the consensus is that coils sag noticeably after 10-15 years, and visual/minor measurement often underestimates it. The shop’s “not enough for 3 MPa-g” claim is questionable—many owners drop 1-3 MPa-g just by installing new OEM or slightly stiffer coils.
We have adjusted the front torsion bars to a point where the neutral ride height is above spec and the pressures are still too high. We have checked over the rear pressures, the springs are sagging slightly, but not enough to suggest the 3 MPa-g difference from spec.
I’m wondering if these statements could be valid in my situation:
Tightening torsion bars transfers more vehicle weight to the mechanical springs, reducing the load (and pressure) the AHC hydraulics must handle. If they’ve truly cranked enough to exceed stock front hub-to-fender height (~19.5-20” at Neutral, empty vehicle) and pressure hasn’t dropped into spec, the torsion bars themselves are likely fatigued/sagged beyond what the adjusters can compensate for. This is frequent on high-mileage 100-series; the bars lose spring rate over time, forcing AHC to overwork.
Even “slight” sag on original 2003 coils (now 23 years old) commonly causes 2-4 MPa-g excess pressure. Seems the consensus is that coils sag noticeably after 10-15 years, and visual/minor measurement often underestimates it. The shop’s “not enough for 3 MPa-g” claim is questionable—many owners drop 1-3 MPa-g just by installing new OEM or slightly stiffer coils.
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Idk... still doesn't add up to me. I'd confirm their understanding of the AHC system. You're not supposed to see any change in ride height when adjusting the torsion bars. The height sensors control the ride height in the AHC system. One in each front corner and a third on the rear axle.
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- #36
I will, just formulating my next message. I’m
trying to wrap my head around how they could crank the TBs to the extent that they increased the ride height (by measure or via data) and it didnt change the PSIs for the better?
^This
Are they also unpluging the temp sensor from the AHC pump like @suprarx7nut cheat sheet says? (Video at 6:50)
As @bcarbs said. The AHC systems height sensors control the height. (Tells the AHC rams to put as much pressure is needed to get it to that height)
So it cant be "above spec" when it comes to ride height.
(poor attempt at an analogy: Its moving furniture up stairs.
Height Sensors = Owner/Supervisor
Torsions/Rear Springs = Number of workers.
Pressures = How much of the job each worker has to do)
So the more the torsions and rear springs (carry on their backs) the higher the pressures will be.
Yes, that's exactly how it works.
No that's not how it works and I'm starting to think the tech/s don't know WTF they are talking about.
If the sensors sliders are tight like they should be, no amount of loosening or tightening the torsions is going to affect ride height.. (until the pressures overload and the system drops to L)
Look up a sensor lift to learn more about and see the system. (23:30 in the video)
Go ask them what exactly are the pressure numbers. And give them to us.
IMHO it be better to get techstream setup and diag yourself and do the checklist.
Cut through all possible shop BS and get the numbers yourself.
IF the torsions are actually raising the front ride height like you implied/they told you the height sensors aren't tight and the thing is sliding/moving around. Fix that first.
Good to hear, and thanks for updating. How was your Impex experience? Order/delivery dates, shipping, tariffs?