Battery Discharge Light, E-brake Light & A/T Oil Light all on

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Fergie

Fergie

SILVER Star
10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Oct 16, 2007
Threads
59
Messages
330
Location
Flagstaff, AZ
I've been having a curious, intermittent issue concerning my Battery Discharge Light, Emergency Brake Light, and AT Oil Temp Light.

On several different occassions, all three have been on, under different conditions.

First, and most frequent is when the vehicle is cold from sitting overnight, or has been started and only run for a short time. All three lights appear, and as soon as I put it in drive, and start to roll about a dozen feet, they go off.

Second time, on my trip back from MX, they came on while waiting at the Nogales border crossing, and stayed on through multiple starts and stops, but as soon as I was on the open road, they went off.

The e-brake is never on when this occurs, I've even tried cycling it. The battery level is fine, and the transmission is fine too.

What gives? Performance isnt affected, and no weird behaviors happen when they go on or off.

Loose connection?
Bad ground?

What?

Thanks,
Gavin

RanchoAribabi10-31-09044.jpg
 
That's the standard "low-voltage" warning combo. Usually means your alt's on the way out.

Only thing surprising to me is that your voltage gauge doesn't look especially low in that pic. Is that where it usually sits, or is it indeed lower than normal when the "christmas tree" lights are on?

Curtis
 
Fergie,

I don't have wiring diagrams for a 91, however my 97 diagram shows two of those lights are in the "check bulb" relay circuit for my LC.

It's possible all 3 of those are in the circuit for a 91.

If someone on the forum would have the diagram for yours, this could be verified, and put you on the right track for troubleshooting.

If this is what is happening (the bulb relay being the culprit) it could be the relay itself is bad, or the circuit that makes it when you initially turn on the ignition key is somehow flaky.

Good luck in your hunt for the answer.
 
Mine had all three of em on when the alternator died. I would get the alternator checked out asap.


But your voltage doesn't look low. Hmm, Have you checked that all the wires are tight on the alternator?
 
Alt. is going to crap out. I've been dealing with the same thing the last couple weeks. I had to get a jump to get to the shop today, batt was flat dead. When I coasted through the door to a screeching halt, I quickly popped the hood and the alt was putting out 10.2 v.
 
S.CarolinaFZJ80 said:
I had this happen after my starter got stuck and wouldn't disengage thus toasting the alternator. Have your local parts store bench test it. The voltage regulator in it is probabally going bad.
Click to expand...

x2 on stuck starter. After replacing the starter contacts (a year ago), it has been good since.
 
Thanks for the info guys, at least I have an idea of what it is now.

Next question, is there a way to diagnos which it is(alternator or starter) without just throwing money at it?

I assume that I can remove the alternator and take it to NAPA for a test correct?

What about the starter being tested?

Are either rebuildable? Are there any upgrades for either?

Thanks again.
 
Fergie,
I have the same issue. I had the alt tested and sure enough it is on its way out. Go to Advance or Autozone and have them test it FOC. Give cruiserdan a call for the alternator if in fact that is what it is. I was going to order from him but sure enough I have a spare OEM and belts... The wifey just misplaced them for me temporarily.
 
Fergie said:
Thanks for the info guys, at least I have an idea of what it is now.

Next question, is there a way to diagnos which it is(alternator or starter) without just throwing money at it?

I assume that I can remove the alternator and take it to NAPA for a test correct?

What about the starter being tested?

Are either rebuildable? Are there any upgrades for either?

Thanks again.
Click to expand...

I think it is a good idea to have the alternator tested. Though, the fact that it was intermittent makes it pretty hard to pin down the problem. In my case, prior to replacing the starter contacts, my wife actually dropped the truck off at my local Lexus dealer. After a day of testing, they could not find anything wrong with it. I then chose to do the starter contacts only because (a) they are cheaper (b) don't want the stuck starter overheat and burn the wire. Fortunately for me it turned out to be a good bet.

Here is a thread (https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/294153-dash-lights-charge-oil-t-temp-etc-definitive-fix.html) by IdahoDoug might be helpful for your troubleshooting). Hopefully you will have better luck with the diagnosis.
 
ok so im having the exact same problem on my land cruiser. The alternator was bad (dim lights would brighten when i gas it and it would overcharge batteries causing them to swell. go that replaced now but now it gives me the a/t oil temp light, brake light, and low voltage warning. could it be the starter now?
 
Lal00o00 said:
ok so im having the exact same problem on my land cruiser. The alternator was bad (dim lights would brighten when i gas it and it would overcharge batteries causing them to swell. go that replaced now but now it gives me the a/t oil temp light, brake light, and low voltage warning. could it be the starter now?
Click to expand...
That combination of dash lights points to the alternator or charging circuit. What is your alternator output voltage?
 
jonheld said:
That combination of dash lights points to the alternator or charging circuit. What is your alternator output voltage?
Click to expand...
I checked and its giving me 11.7 at alternator and 12 at battery. The alternator was also just replaced with a reman from cruiserparts, the lights came on when it was installed. The old was over charging battery but gave me no lights.
 
Lal00o00 said:
I checked and its giving me 11.7 at alternator and 12 at battery. The alternator was also just replaced with a reman from cruiserparts, the lights came on when it was installed. The old was over charging battery but gave me no lights.
Click to expand...
That sure sounds like a bad alternator to me.
 
jonheld said:
That sure sounds like a bad alternator to me.
Click to expand...

this is the part that i came up with

Alternator 1988-1992 - 12V 80A [27060-61091 27060-61090] - $100.00 : CruiserParts.net, Toyota Landcruiser Parts

CruiserParts.net Alternator 1988-1992 - 12V 80A [27060-61091 27060-61090] - Alternator 80 amp. 1988, 1989, 1990,1991 & 1992 FJ62, FJ70 and FJ80Pulley may not be included. If you have any questions about the item(s) that you may need please feel free to call and we will be glad to help you find...
shop.cruiserparts.net

this was the part ordered and installed and giving me 11.7v at alterntor (idle)
i was really considering the mean green alternator but decided with this one :bang:

gonna try reaching out to see about getting a new one sent or a refund
 
Lal00o00 said:
I will check connections on everything again tomorrow. Could those be a cause for the code throw?
Click to expand...
As previously stated, the combination of dash lights that you are seeing is an indication of a bad alternator or a fault in the charging circuit. A bad cable connection, shorted cell in the battery, or bad alternator are all suspect at this point.
HOWEVER, you stated that as soon as you installed the "new" alternator, you got the dash lights. That clearly points to the alternator IMO.
 
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