Bad “Toyota” alternator.. I’m a bit worried.

[Patron100LC]

This isn’t a rant.. but it may sound like one.

Yesterday I replaced an alternator that I installed less than 3 years ago (October 23’).

Got it from a Toyota dealer, obviously rebuilt since they don’t offer a new one anymore.

I believe the issue was the regulator since the voltage spiked all over the place from 11v to 15v based on my Scangauge2, killing my fairly new battery while at it.

Didn’t see the issue until I had to jumpstart it at a gas station a couple minutes from my house, luckily I always carry a jump starter since I have a bunch of family with old cars and batteries are s$&t too lately… Rant!

Luckily I still had my old alternator in the spare parts bin, and I think it’s the original one installed by Toyota when new..

I replaced this one while doing the timing belt job thinking that it’s time at 285k miles.. was I wrong?

Does it mean that replacing old parts with newer ones in today’s corporate environment “make money, screw quality” reality is a mistake? (rant?).

Is the new master brake pump I preemptively replaced gonna fail soon too?

Is it wise to replace parts preemptively even if they still work OK?
How long can I expect my original starter to last before I replace it with a subpar part?

Is this still gonna be a Land Cruiser 100 a few years from now? Or just another 3-5 year car that gets traded in for peanuts on the dollar when issues pop up?


BTW, replacing the alternator w/o removing the radiator is a b!%#£ch of a job.. specially when it’s almost 100F in the shade..

 

[GTV]

Pop new brushes in your original alternator and slap it in.

 

[rexington14]

If it ain't broke...

 

[ScotyDosentKnow]

I replaced my alternator in a parts store parking lot in about 45min in some AZ desert town in BFE......I have no clue why the radiator would need to come out

About the parts question though, I wouldn't replace anything unless it fails or I was "already in there". Hard to say if the new OEM parts are garbage but I wouldnt doubt it the way things are going. My 2023 Tundra was bought back under the Lemon Law so I dont have much faith in new stuff.

 

[Pighead]

I've always had good luck getting my alternator rebuilt locally, most every good-sized town has a good starter/alternator shop.

 

[Patron100LC]

Pop new brushes in your original alternator and slap it in.

Wish I did but needed it asap and couldn’t wait for parts, but I’m getting a kit and I’ll do that when I’m in there again. In the meantime the old part is back in there after a sabbatical rest.

If it ain't broke...

Yup, that’s what the old guy who teach me to wrench 30 years ago used to say. I did learn some things from him though.

I replaced my alternator in a parts store parking lot in about 45min in some AZ desert town in BFE......I have no clue why the radiator would need to come out

About the parts question though, I wouldn't replace anything unless it fails or I was "already in there". Hard to say if the new OEM parts are garbage but I wouldnt doubt it the way things are going. My 2023 Tundra was bought back under the Lemon Law so I dont have much faith in new stuff.

The job isn’t bad if all goes as it should, but it’s the little things that complicated it, like those little plastic clips that won’t budge, or the 3rd stud that’s holding the 2003 and newer alt that came out instead of the nut, Ang having to grind a 14mm wrench for it to fit there.. things I didn’t deal with when the radiator was out. A 1hr job turned into a 4 hrs under the sun.

Maybe I got unlucky with a part that went wrong, but I already replaced a brand new Toyota thermostat that failed in a few months, and a new belt idler that started squeaking, seams that QC isn’t the same.

And regarding the new models with issues right out of the plants, it’s one of the reasons I’m not even considering a new vehicle, pretty much every manufacturer has those today and I’m guessing that dealing with them takes the pleasure off the new car experience.

 

[Patron100LC]

I've always had good luck getting my alternator rebuilt locally, most every good-sized town has a good starter/alternator shop.

I’m sure I can find one, but isn’t it just easier and safer to order from the guys that made the car in the first place? Apparently not, right?

I’ll still keep wrenching on this old girl for a long time, it’s that I don’t thing we can count on the same life expectancy from new parts as the ones we removed.

The fact that Toyota changed part numbers from the originals to what’s available today is a clue, they didn’t do it to improve on them, but to get cheaper manufacturing. At least that’s my opinion.

 

[stonepa]

Preemptively replace parts on a 100? Nope unless, like a timing belt, it is part of a maintenance cycle. I bought my 1998 100 new. It has almost 475k miles on it. I have never replaced an alternator, although I have done 2 starters and a radiator. This isn’t an airplane with complete duty cycle replacement schedules. I would replace things as they indicate failure.

New Toyota OEM parts for the 100 are not better or worse in quality now than they were 20 years ago. However, many have been discontinued which requires finding either new-old stock or rebuilt parts. Not a fan of rebuilt parts from the US because the reman companies consistently do a bad job IMHO. But sometimes you have no choice.

 

[Pighead]

I’m sure I can find one, but isn’t it just easier and safer to order from the guys that made the car in the first place? Apparently not, right?

There was a time when I thought OEM anything was always the best choice. I got over that. Sure, it's easier to get something off the shelf, you saw what can happen. I'm learning that sometimes a local craftsman, who does it all the time, can do a fine job. Perhaps even superior to factory.

 

[2001LC]

I see a few reason alternators factory or reman Toyota fail, sooner than rather than later:
1# Lack of under shielding. Nothing to stop water, sand and salt.
2# Washing engine, spraying water directly into alternator.
3# Slowing or stopping in deep water crossing. Flooding alt.
4# Missing alt wire support bracket. Takes road bonce strain off wire, lug & stud
5# Not seating wire lug prongs, which lock wire from rotating on stud.

 

[hoser]

You can still buy new OE alternators.... $1200 or new aftermarket $500.

The parts that go bad are usually the brushes, diode rectifier, voltage regulator or bearings. These OE parts are reasonably priced for 98-02. '03+ is a different design.

 

[ScotyDosentKnow]

I see a few reason alternators factory or reman Toyota fail, sooner than rather than later:
1# Lack of under shielding. Nothing to stop water, sand and salt.
2# Washing engine, spraying water directly into alternator.
3# Slowing or stopping in deep water crossing. Flooding alt.
4# Missing alt wire support bracket. Takes road bonce strain off wire, lug & stud
5# Not seating wire lug prongs, which lock wire from rotating on stud.

Pretty sure mine was a victim of #2 and #3 many times over. Thats what I believe killed it, 245K miles and 21 years is a decent run through

 

[excessive]

parts like starters and alternators, where MR T still sells parts like brushes, contacts, bearings - its best to rebuild the old one if you can

 

[hoser]

Part list for 2002 Alternator at the current 25% off sale. One part, not available OE is the slip ring on the rotor but is available aftermarket for $15. May or may not needed depending on the condition of yours.

 

[Patron100LC]

Got the brushes holder assembly to keep as a spare in case the OEM one needs them, still running perfectly after re-installed, so no need to touch for now. The rebuilt Denso I got from Toyota in Oct. 23’ will be used as a core when needed.

If/when my starter goes bad I’ll make sure I get it rebuilt locally by a small shop, instead of replaced with some mass production rebuilding corporation, regardless of who’s sticker is on the case..
it doesn’t guarantee that it’ll last 20 years of course, but I was expecting more than a couple years of normal use..

No water crossing, no engine washes.
All OEM shields are on and all clips/ brackets are in place and holding, no PS oil leaks on it..
The regulator just died, no explanation.

 

[hoser]

Well, even Denso remanufactured is not top notch. First and likely, they only replace the "expensive" parts that don't meet their test criteria. And if replaced, it is replaced with Denso USA parts.... arguably not as good as Denso Japanese parts. The parts that meet the testing criteria are several to many years old... and are living on borrowed time.... a couple of years is not uncommon.

 

[Patron100LC]

Well, even Denso remanufactured is not top notch. First and likely, they only replace the "expensive" parts that don't meet their test criteria. And if replaced, it is replaced with Denso USA parts.... arguably not as good as Denso Japanese parts. The parts that meet the testing criteria are several to many years old... and are living on borrowed time.... a couple of years is not uncommon.

Yup, sadly a few years of life is the new standard, same with a bunch of other things, not just cars.

Don’t want to sound like a bitter old man, but the saying “they don’t make them as they used to” is pretty much accurate everywhere.

The old alternator went back in there to it’s old home without any upgrades, I did get the brushes but not installed, got them in my spare parts box. Producing a steady 13.4-13.5v when warm as it did for years. Yay!

The “new” Denso I got from Toyota is used as a garage door stop.

 

[nissanh]

You do not need the IC regulator or the diode kit. Just the brush kit is what you need. If bearings are good, leave it alone. I used OEM Toyota bearings for my 4runner alternator and it makes a hummm noise. I am at 250K miles in LC and the alternator is factory with a new brush kit. All reman or a/m are junk!

 

[Patron100LC]

You do not need the IC regulator or the diode kit. Just the brush kit is what you need. If bearings are good, leave it alone. I used OEM Toyota bearings for my 4runner alternator and it makes a hummm noise. I am at 250K miles in LC and the alternator is factory with a new brush kit. All reman or a/m are junk!

I found myself browsing through eBay for that yellow sticker alternator, I might get one just to test and see if I can have a “reliable” replacement for when this one kicks the dust.

I refuse to fall into a “3 years life cycle” routine, either it’s better, or it’s OUT.

Isn’t it the reason we drive a Toyota?!?!


Same goes for my cameras, audio, kitchen appliances, or my GD patio furniture!