Bad Results with 555 Ball Joints (1 Viewer)

[up5799]

Replaced my ball joints last year with 555 Senkei since I was using non-OEM lower control arms (my mechanics choice not mine.) Had a look at them a few days ago when changing the oil and filter and it appears both are rusted away with the rubber boot torn. I find it hard to believe both were defective since many people here have used them successfully - so what happened? Did mechanic screw up, or is it possible they did not fit properly with the non-OEM lower control arms?

 

[JunkCrzr89]

They’re rusted because they weren’t painted when installed. Multiple threads here noting that 555 joints, rod ends, etc. are sold unpainted and should be painted before or after install.

I don’t see torn boots in your photos, but such early tears are most often caused during install if the boots are not removed prior to pressing in the joints. Again, multiple threads on here noting that the boots should be removed before pressing the joints into the arms and then boots reinstalled prior to attaching the joints to the knuckles.

 

[up5799]

The boots may not be torn but they are twisted in such a way that they don't cover the metal part of the joint, or so it seemed to me. I'll try to twist them back into place later today. If they cannot be twisted back into shape to cover the metal part of the joint, should they be replaced or just kept greased on a regular basis (like the drive shaft.)

I find it entirely believable that the mechanic did not remove the boots prior to pressing the joints into the arms.

 

[excessive]

The only real solution is to buy the Toyota Lower control arms. The aftermarket ball joints won't last 1/10th of the lifespan of the OEMs.

 

[nissanh]

When you spend on AM parts, you'll spend more. I never a get 555 as they are in very low quality. For example 3rd gen 4runners and 1st gen tacos have a lower ball joint that fails at 220+ K miles. If you use a 555, it will fail before just 20K miles. It has happen to several fellow 4r and taco owners.

 

[DuckLN]

The boots on my 555 lbjs were removed during install as that reveals a nice flat surface for which a press can push. Once pressed in, you can reinstall the boot perfectly and thats what was done on mine.

They still tore in a little over a year and yes even the retainer ring is not stainless and rusted within days. In my opinion that is based off first hand experience the 555 ball joints are not up to the quality standard that us cruiser lovers deserve.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

In my opinion that is based off first hand experience the 555 ball joints are not up to the quality standard that us cruiser lovers deserve.

I don’t think anyone will disagree with you that the 555 joints are not as good as OEM Toyota joints. But since the OEM joints are not available separate from the control arms, the 555 joints are undoubtedly the best available option outside of spending upwards of $1600 for all four OEM front control arms. Hell, even the Dobinsons UCAs have the 555 joints.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Been using the 555 uppers and lowers for 4+ years, not a single issue (other than needing paint on the top side that's bare metal). Excellent quality from I've experienced, boots are fine. Making empirical statements that they will fail within 20k miles or only have 10% of the life of OEM isn't the case for all.

 

[DuckLN]

I believe they’re the cheapest worst made poorly engineered cost cut item ive ever bot for this cruiser. For gosh sakes how much did they save by not using a stainless retainer ring? I’m embarrassed for 555 tbh.

Thats my opinion developed from first hand experience and this venue supports sharing both good and bad - and i don’t believe i’m rowin this boat by myself.

Glad to hear some folks are pleased with them. Good evening.

 

[up5799]

FWIW I don't know if it is the quality of the product, or the gentleman who installed it, but my rubber boots on my 555's are twisted in such a way that they will not remain in place covering the metal portion of the ball joint. Question is can I use the ball joints safely without a defective rubber boot such as this, greasing them on a regular basis, or should I just replace the entire lower arm with OEM Toyota (ball joint included.) I don't want to spend the money if I can avoid it, but if I can't run the 555 without a rubber boot might as well replace them now while doing other work.

 

[sodafeld1]

fancy that, I was always under the impression they are very good!

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Sankei 555, what's the veredict ?

My LC has 320,000Km (200K miles) and there is some minor play on both ITREs and one LBJ. I think it's time for an ovehaul, and I am considering replacing upper & lower BJ, ITREs and OTREs. Wheel bearings look and feel fine, I think they are the factory ones (TIMKEN). The consensus for 555 parts...

forum.ih8mud.com

There's a thread on them with two Mud vendors commenting about no customer complaints, which you'd think if they were failing quickly, they would be hearing about. Most of the complaints I see here are about boots - which are easy to screw up with a poor install, and also can be damaged from road debris/off-roading.

 

[OwnerCS]

Can you see the top of the ball joints? Did the ball joints by chance come with the non-OEM lower control arms?

I've been running 555 for over two years without issue. Noting I do not live in an area that uses road salt. This was coated with a clear acryllic before installation.

 

[abuck99]

When the OEM ball joint has failed, the bushings in the arms are likely end of life as well. All should be replaced at same interval which makes new OEM or AM arms an easier solution. If I were going to experiment with non-OEM on a DD- I would look at Mevotech as an option-I’ve used them on other platforms successfully- their bushings are similar to OEM and their premium range has extra tough boots- check RA for pricing.

Fwiw MOOG components are lower quality than 555-

 

[OwnerCS]

When the OEM ball joint has failed, the bushings in the arms are likely end of life as well. All should be replaced at same interval which makes new OEM or AM arms an easier solution. If I were going to experiment with non-OEM on a DD- I would look at Mevotech as an option-I’ve used them on other platforms successfully- their bushings are similar to OEM and their premium range has extra tough boots- check RA for pricing.

Fwiw MOOG components are lower quality than 555-

Good point and a possible reason for my success. All new bushings and other components were installed with the 555 ball joints.

 

[hoser]

This thread prompted me to check my 555 Ball Joints. OE balljoint last 117K. My 555's have 75k miles, 13 years old and purchased from RockAuto. The boot needs to be changed (PS) but the BJ is still tight the last time checked. When compared to DuckLN's photo, the two look a bit different... like maybe the rubber is thinner? The castle nut is definitely different.

And @DuckLN's ball joint....
Mine are old. Maybe 555 quality has gone downhill. Maybe one is fake. I dunno. It would be nice nice to compare the innards.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

This thread prompted me to check my 555 Ball Joints. OE balljoint last 117K. My 555's have 75k miles, 13 years old and purchased from RockAuto. The boot needs to be changed (PS) but the BJ is still tight the last time checked. When compared to DuckLN's photo, the two look a bit different... like maybe the rubber is thinner? The castle nut is definitely different.

View attachment 3091227

And @DuckLN's ball joint....
Mine are old. Maybe 555 quality has gone downhill. Maybe one is fake. I dunno. It would be nice nice to compare the innards.

View attachment 3091229

Good eye. Duck’s do not appear to be 555s. Mine look identical to hoser’s.

 

[gatormark91]

This thread prompted me to check my 555 Ball Joints. OE balljoint last 117K. My 555's have 75k miles, 13 years old and purchased from RockAuto. The boot needs to be changed (PS) but the BJ is still tight the last time checked. When compared to DuckLN's photo, the two look a bit different... like maybe the rubber is thinner? The castle nut is definitely different.

View attachment 3091227

And @DuckLN's ball joint....
Mine are old. Maybe 555 quality has gone downhill. Maybe one is fake. I dunno. It would be nice nice to compare the innards.

View attachment 3091229

Doesn't look to me like the one with the torn boot was seated far enough into the seat. There should be more visible thread, and more compression of the boot, at least compared to my 555s. The other one without the torn boot looks right.

 

[DuckLN]

My lbjs were pressed all the way in gator. One concern at install was that they went in too far actually as there was a tiny space between the retainer ring and the control arm.There are other threads about 555 not installing properly btw. For me, there are no attributes of 555 bjs that meet the minimum standard for an owner that intends to invest in and safely drive a a tlc.

 

[maasa2002]

My advice to extend the ball joint life is:
1. Put grease nozzle in press/drilling shop with threads. Only to keep inside greased all the time.
Help link

Adding Grease Fittings to Ball Joints - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum

XJ XJ8 / XJR ( X308 ) - Adding Grease Fittings to Ball Joints - I was doing some research on new ball joints and noticed that the new ball joints did not come with a grease fitting just like the factory joints. I decided since my 99 VDP only has 54k miles, that it was a bit premature for ball...

www.jaguarforums.com

2. Paint with good quality sprayer the whole arm after installing the ball joint, but remember to protect the rubber boot. Or dont install the boot for the upper control arm till you finish painting.
3. For the lower control arm, the late versions of 555 boots are not good as the previous ones. So you have to install the OEM boots number 43345-69015. There's a pic down.
4. The big reason of the fail of the ball joint is that getting heated from the heavy duty jobs with no regressing, so the rubber gets stiff then fails and gets cracked. So grease it monthly from the grease nozzle that you followed in step 1.