Audio upgrade for the 21st century (1 Viewer)

[Nay]

A quick note of thanks for this write up to @jcardona1

I’ve only done the front two speakers and the passenger side dash (I can’t find the wiring on the driver’s side and have a bunch of aftermarket security wiring in there so I’m not touching that any further), with the sound deadening, and it’s a huge upgrade, especially given the low cost. Head unit is a Pioneer AVH-1330NEX that puts out 50w/channel and is a nice mid-level system for CarPlay, etc.

The PO had done Kenwood speakers before I bought it in ‘05 and the work to make a deeper speaker fit so I was able to leverage that work. It’s a lot of time to get all the sound deadening material installed, but that’s a huge part of the value, it’s always more than you think and a critical part of any premium sound. It’s really not worth that much money to add speakers without the sound damping.

I still have the two rear doors to go, but already modern high end sound for a rig like this. Really stoked to finally be getting this upgrade done.

 

[bigreed]

This is a great writeup. I’ve put the same speakers in my front doors and they sound great.

One issue though:
Is anyone having issue with the Polk 6.5s getting grounded in the front doors? Looking in there it doesn’t look like there’s much distance between the back of the magnet and the guide rail for the window. I’ve been getting shocked by the drivers door ever since installing them And even came out to a dead battery once.

Am I doing something wrong?

 

[Obrokoff]

Some of my rig music install. More in my thread.
3way front, 2 old school amplifiers Sub in progress

 

[on the rocks]

Interesting idea for AMP placement. I kind of like it and find myself storing useless things in my Delta storage up there. amp's out in the open keeping cool and not stuffed in a corner overheating is smart. Did you hand make the speaker enclosures?

 

[Obrokoff]

Interesting idea for AMP placement. I kind of like it and find myself storing useless things in my Delta storage up there. amp's out in the open keeping cool and not stuffed in a corner overheating is smart. Did you hand make the speaker enclosures?

the car is sometimes submerged in water up to the hood. I can’t place amp lower then roof

All in my car are self made

Builds - Airbagged 80 series on 42 inches. Low cost Russian build thread

Hi, thanks for sharing this build its awesome!Newbie here on air bags...What controls the rebound on your suspension?

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Nay]

This is a great writeup. I’ve put the same speakers in my front doors and they sound great.

One issue though:
Is anyone having issue with the Polk 6.5s getting grounded in the front doors? Looking in there it doesn’t look like there’s much distance between the back of the magnet and the guide rail for the window. I’ve been getting shocked by the drivers door ever since installing them And even came out to a dead battery once.

Am I doing something wrong?

I’d definitely check my wiring to make sure there is nothing exposed. Any clearance to the guide rail is fine, but you do have to bring them out a half inch to avoid contact.

 

[bigreed]

I’d definitely check my wiring to make sure there is nothing exposed. Any clearance to the guide rail is fine, but you do have to bring them out a half inch to avoid contact.

Ahh so I do need to add some 1/2” spacers? I didn’t do that, probably my issue...

 

[TYM4FUN]

Ahh so I do need to add some 1/2” spacers? I didn’t do that, probably my issue...

Yes. Also wouldn't hurt to line the holes edge with felt tape.

 

[Gymboi]

So I've got everything figured out, except for this one thing. I already have an aftermarket head unit. I'm replacing the 4 door speakers and the dash speakers. I'm running a 4 channel amp with RCAs and will be using a 9 cable wire to utilize the factory speaker wiring. And I have the Metra 70-1761 bypass harness. I already have the factory amp disconnected, where do I connect the 9 speaker cable wire to, leading from the amp? To the wires that connected to the factory amp? Or splice into the harness going behind the head unit?

 

[TYM4FUN]

So I've got everything figured out, except for this one thing. I already have an aftermarket head unit. I'm replacing the 4 door speakers and the dash speakers. I'm running a 4 channel amp with RCAs and will be using a 9 cable wire to utilize the factory speaker wiring. And I have the Metra 70-1761 bypass harness. I already have the factory amp disconnected, where do I connect the 9 speaker cable wire to, leading from the amp? To the wires that connected to the factory amp? Or splice into the harness going behind the head unit?

Hook them up to the Metra harness at the deck.

 

[Gymboi]

Hook them up to the Metra harness at the deck.

So I wouldn't connect the 9 wire to the corresponding wires off the input side? Wouldn't I just wire up the Metra harness to the head unit. Then plug it into the gray connectors?

Or do I just leave the wires on the old amp connectors be, and wire the 9 wire from the new amp to the Metra 70-1761, and then plug in the Metra into the 2 gray connectors behind the head unit?

 

[Gymboi]

Hook them up to the Metra harness at the deck.

Took me a bit to wrap my head around why it connects to the metra harness. All it took was Crutchfield Tech Support answering some questions on the phone. Thank you sir!

 

[TYM4FUN]

Took me a bit to wrap my head around why it connects to the metra harness. All it took was Crutchfield Tech Support answering some questions on the phone. Thank you sir!

Sorry I am late to this. Yes, they have excellent service and I will shop only there for audio now.

 

[Gymboi]

Sorry I am late to this. Yes, they have excellent service and I will shop only there for audio now.

Yeah they're fantastic. And it also helps that they're only 10 minutes away from me

 

[Gymboi]

What size and length screws should I use with the db652s? 8x1 and 8x1.25s?

 

[TYM4FUN]

What size and length screws should I use with the db652s? 8x1 and 8x1.25s?

Going to depend on your spacing, measure it. I forget what I used. After the fact, I would have used nutserts for a better install. I will probably go back and do this at some point.

 

[Gymboi]

Um

Going to depend on your spacing, measure it. I forget what I used. After the fact, I would have used nutserts for a better install. I will probably go back and do this at some point.

I'm about to stop by Lowe's in a second. Which nut inserts are you talking about? Tee nuts? Rivet nuts? Speed nuts?

 

[TYM4FUN]

Um
I'm about to stop by Lowe's in a second. Which nut inserts are you talking about? Tee nuts? Rivet nuts? Speed nuts?

Rivet nuts.

 

[Gymboi]

Fhata

Rivet nuts.

That's what I assumed. Harbor Freight has one, bru only comes with 10 of each size nut insert, and no replacements. I'll just get an assortment of #8 sheet metal screws

 

[TxnBluDvl]

Question for those who have installed this setup (or specifically, the KTA 450). Did you have to run dedicated power and ground for the power pack? Crutchfield's video says that you only need to do this if your radio fuse is less than 15 amps (which it appears the 80 series is an 15 amp, but shared fuse).

If you had to run a dedicated power and ground -- and if you're already doing a factory amp bypass -- did anyone consider tapping into the bypass harness for the amp to grab its power/ground?