- Thread starter
- #21
When I atempeted to install the headunit I basically did what this guy did and i think car toys did the same. So i guess that would mean they did not bypass the stock amp.... So how do I bypass it?
Audio Advice (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Andrew Bluemel
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tampacruiser95
Upgrades are coming.
No the stock amp sits behind the glove box. The glove box will pop all the way open. Open it up and look for small plastic pieces on each side of the glove box on the inside. They easily pop out, letting it open all the way. The factory amp will look nothing like the amp you are used to. Its a small silver box.
Fj moneypit
Cubic Zirconia Member
They sell a plug and play wiring harness FYI. Soldering wires is a better idea also...anyway. I'm building a sub box with 8" sub that will fit in space where old sub was. Hoping it'll work well. I'm running my 10 inch sub and it makes all the difference. Still have original speakers and think all the sound system needs is a good sub and amp.
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- #24
- Thread starter
- #25
Not the engine control of course
tampacruiser95
Upgrades are coming.
Right, it's the silver box. Though I can't see it real well in that picture.
- Thread starter
- #27
Okay. I am referring to the smaller one on the right. So from here I think I would just need an amp to power just a sub right? The kenwood probably had a far better amp than the stock one I was going through. Or I could get a new amp to power everything. But how would I go about doing either one of these things?
Thanks for your help by the way
tampacruiser95
Upgrades are coming.
I would get a new amp, take it to best buy or something like that. I think they charge 99 for an amp install and you know it will be done right/warrantied.
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- #29
Okay. Ya probably what I will do is order the sub and amp online since its cheaper, try it myself, and if have no success take it in. Thanks for your help
You don't.
There are RCA plugs (front, rear, subwoofer) in the rear of your new deck that will input to the new amp (s).
The factory amps can simply be unplugged and optionally removed.
As for the wiring of your current head unit, you could leave it.
So, now that you have the RCA cables plugged into your new amp you are presented with a choice.
1) run new speaker wires from the new amp to each speaker (hardest, most expensive, but best).
2) run new speaker wires BACK to the original amp location, where you will splice them into the FACTORY speaker wires.
3) combination of 1&2, i.e., run new speaker wires to door speakers (easiest ones) from amp directly, and tie into the factory wires for the 3rd row AWAY from factory amp location (i.e., the shortest route to them from where you mount the new amp).
There is yet... another *possible* option 4 -- I haven't investigated this for the 80, but:
a) leave the factory amp in to repurpose a couple speakers that you are not powering with the new amp.
b) the speakers being amplified by the new amp will have to be addressed similar to #1 or #2.
c) undo the speaker wiring from the rear of the new deck
d) wire in CB radio output to factory amp to get CB sound on remaining speakers not powered by the new amp.
If you can easily run new speaker wires into the doors from the amp, do it yourself. If you can't do that or want to tie into factory wiring (doing all the splicing in the dash can be an epic pain in the ass) then take it to a good independent shop (not best buy) after you run power and RCAs to the amp, and new speaker wires with lots of excess to each door or back to factory amp location in order to minimize cost.
I've been using Alpine amps (form factor is incredible for hiding), Infinity (Harman) or JL speakers, and JL subs. None have given me a reason to goto something else.
You mentioned that the front speakers sounds louder than the rear doors. I'm assuming you don't have front dash speakers and you're rear roof speakers are old or blown. I would unplug the roof speakers because they are wired with the rear door door speakers and splitting the power from the amp. The front doors would split with the dash if you have them. In my case, I didn't have dash speakers andand the rear doors weren't loud enough after upgrading the 4 door speakers. Unplugging the rear roof speakers made a big difference for the rear door speakers. Just something I found out myself
Fj moneypit
Cubic Zirconia Member
All good advice but this also depends on the sound you're going for. I put a new kenwood double din unit in, left all original speakers, didn't touch front amp, removed rear factory sub and amp and wired in my 10" sub with new amp and it sounds great. I working on 8" shallow mount sub box to fit where old sub was. Hope it'll still give a good sound like the 10"
- Thread starter
- #36
This is a good idea. Going to try today just to see if I can tell a difference. If not I will unplug the factory amp and let the headunit power the door speakers and get another amp to power a sub. Thanks
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- #37
Since yesterday I disconnected the factory amps, the factory sub, and front tweeters. And I have noticed a great improvement! It's still not perfect by any means and without a sub there is a little to be desired but the sound is much crispier. Thanks for everyone's help.
I have a 97 lx450 and I'm going to get the ddx9903s . Have you ever tried the under the set subwoofers Kenwood makes a
Kenwood KSC-SW11 150-Watt Compact Powered Subwoofer with Remote for around 140.00 I went to a car stereo place and thats what they recommended. I haven't heard a set up using it so I don't know how it sounds . Just wondering if anyone has one under the seat .
Haven't gotten around to adding a sub, but did install some ground loop isolators which significantly reduced the hum. Looking at the Crutchfield site, that thing is listed at $250. I'm no audiophile, but it seems counter intuitive to me placing a speaker under a seat with limited space.
I just picked up a Bose Soundlink 3, and wonder now if that thing could be paired via BT, while using my lightening/USB connector to the headunit from my iPad. I'm very impressed with sound and bass from the Bose, and it is compact enough to mount somewhere in th rig. Will check it out later today as I am now curious to see if it will work.
I just picked up a Bose Soundlink 3, and wonder now if that thing could be paired via BT, while using my lightening/USB connector to the headunit from my iPad. I'm very impressed with sound and bass from the Bose, and it is compact enough to mount somewhere in th rig. Will check it out later today as I am now curious to see if it will work.
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- #40
I added an sound ordinance compact sub with built in Amp to my cruiser yesterday.
I just added a compact sub to mine yesterday. I got the sound ordinance (BT-8?) with built in Amp. It had 4.5 stars on crutchfield and was a very easy install. I first tried to mount it under the drivers seat but it would vibrate the seat so bad I was sick of it after 5 min. So I then moved it into the cargo area in the back and it is just about perfect. It is not in your face loud but it gives off just the right amount if tuned properly for the 80s interior.
I just added a compact sub to mine yesterday. I got the sound ordinance (BT-8?) with built in Amp. It had 4.5 stars on crutchfield and was a very easy install. I first tried to mount it under the drivers seat but it would vibrate the seat so bad I was sick of it after 5 min. So I then moved it into the cargo area in the back and it is just about perfect. It is not in your face loud but it gives off just the right amount if tuned properly for the 80s interior.
