ARB LOCKER SWITCHES (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Feb 16, 2017
Threads
3
Messages
10
Location
Long Beach,CA
Does anyone know of or make a
wiring harness that connects the arb locker switches to the factory locker switch?

IMG_2485.JPG
 
My 80 series didn't come with the factory lockers, I want to install ARB lockers and use the factory switch. I was curious if anyone out there sold a wiring harness to connect the two together.

I don't care about the dash lights.
I had a plug-n-play solution at one time but sold it.

It's easy enough to wire-up yourself, many options depending on equipment and location.

Which compressor are you using? Where will the compressor & solenoids be mounted? If it's all under the hood, you can utilize existing wiring.
 
Did you wiring up the dash lights? I'm looking for a simply connection to the factory switch.

I did wire it to the lights. No harness to go directly from the dial to the solenoids that I know of.
 
I did wire it to the lights. No harness to go directly from the dial to the solenoids that I know of.

How did you wire the lights?

I had my 2 switches swapped for a rotary knob but ran the compressor switch as normal, but was fine at that since the indicators in the cluster run from the position sensors on the locker 3rds.

Or was it a simple "switched = indicator lit" thing, not a position sensor (blinking - pending, steady - locked), so more a circuit connector rather than a open/locked indicator?
 
How did you wire the lights?

I had my 2 switches swapped for a rotary knob but ran the compressor switch as normal, but was fine at that since the indicators in the cluster run from the position sensors on the locker 3rds.

Or was it a simple "switched = indicator lit" thing, not a position sensor (blinking - pending, steady - locked), so more a circuit connector rather than a open/locked indicator?

Definitely not a position sensor as there is no way to to that with the air from the ARB. If memory serves correctly, the factory wiring from the dial goes down to the passenger a-pillar where I had to put in two relays that once activated by the dial would power up the dash lights. So yes, it simply indicates on the dash that the diff "should be" locked.
 
^^^^ -OK, gotcha.

Yeah, I was wondering how you would have integrated the position sensors since I was unaware of that possibility too from mine. THAT would have been neat to see.

I never bothered doing cluster lights, but now that you say I get your method (circuit completion, not position sensing).

So I had 1 level 'dumber' but same basic concept as yours.
 
^^^^ -OK, gotcha.

Yeah, I was wondering how you would have integrated the position sensors since I was unaware of that possibility too from mine. THAT would have been neat to see.

I never bothered doing cluster lights, but now that you say I get your method (circuit completion, not position sensing).

So I had 1 level 'dumber' but same basic concept as yours.
Here is the thread I based my work on, came out basically the same although I used a factory fog light switch for the compressor button. I will say it is really sweet that it looks and feels just like OEM from the cockpit.

Arb air locker – factory switch integration
 
I had a plug-n-play solution at one time but sold it.

It's easy enough to wire-up yourself, many options depending on equipment and location.

Which compressor are you using? Where will the compressor & solenoids be mounted? If it's all under the hood, you can utilize existing wiring.

ARB ckma12.

The air compressor is mount to the passenger fender. I relocated the windshield washer fluid bottle with the Slee kit.

Everything will be under the hood.
 
Well that happens to be the compressor that I DON'T already have a drawing for!

Regardless, to answer your original question, the wires from the "magic dial"
are: RED/BLACK for the rear solenoid, and BLACK/GREEN for the front solenoid.

If you want to get fancy, you can interlock the solenoids with the CDL so that they will only activate when the center diff is locked, just like the factory E-lockers. This also lets you eliminate the ARB compressor switch, so without the CDL locked, rotating the dial will still activate the compressor for airing-up or whatever.

This is all accomplished by making a few simple connections at the connector plug for the diff-lock ECU behind the right kick panel, then attaching the ARB stuff to the unused connector already at the right fender.

The ground wires for the solenoids have to be separated from the ARB harness also. Here's how I did it.

The diagram shows ARB's small compressor, but you get the idea.

OBA With Factory Wiring.JPG
 

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  • OBA With Factory Wiring.pdf
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Well that happens to be the compressor that I DON'T already have a drawing for!

Regardless, to answer your original question, the wires from the "magic dial"
are: RED/BLACK for the rear solenoid, and BLACK/GREEN for the front solenoid.

If you want to get fancy, you can interlock the solenoids with the CDL so that they will only activate when the center diff is locked, just like the factory E-lockers. This also lets you eliminate the ARB compressor switch, so without the CDL locked, rotating the dial will still activate the compressor for airing-up or whatever.

This is all accomplished by making a few simple connections at the connector plug for the diff-lock ECU behind the right kick panel, then attaching the ARB stuff to the unused connector already at the right fender.

The ground wires for the solenoids have to be separated from the ARB harness also. Here's how I did it.

The diagram shows ARB's small compressor, but you get the idea.

View attachment 1413226
Thanks for the info!
 
Bump
Evening Mud :flipoff2:

Does anyone have a wiring schematic for a CK ma12 ARB compressor that I can use to incorporate my factory Locker switch?

Or any ideas, I'm honestly stuck...... Tried everything I can think of short of a diode at the solenoids to prevent back feed.

I ordered the wits end kit but the wiring diagram is for a different compressor picture#1

Based on that wits diagram and the wiring diagram for my compressor I came up with picture #2 but it's backfeeding voltage through the solenoids through the green and yellow wires lighting up my dash when not in use. Picture #1 in the top left shows how the factory locker switch interacts with the ARB components.

Thanks mud 🍻

Screenshot_20210725-122402~2.png


Screenshot_20210725-183445.png
 

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