orangefj45
Supporting Vendor
That's incorrect. The cast iron center section needs to be replaced as shown in the pic posted by @CharlieS
Anyone running a Harrop rear e-locker? (1 Viewer)
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orangefj45
Supporting Vendor
That's correct.
thats the part # you gave in an earlier post. What other parts would be needed to do a retrofit on the 16+ land cruisers besides the cast iron center section? Would the pinion flange also need changing since the splines are different?
orangefj45
Supporting Vendor
You have to change:
1) cast iron center section
2) all diff bearings; carrier and pinion ( so basically a rebuild kit with seal and stake nut as well )
3) gears
4) optional ....... locker
The pinion flange remains the same. The original part number was 41204-60060 which has been superceeded to the newer number ( 16 and up ) 41204-60080
The pinion splines are the same. The change to the diff were the shape of the pinion, the pinion bearings and their location. hence the need to replace the cast iron center section; the pinion bearings are a different diameter and located further apart.
interesting... that what we call the rear 3rd member (in rover world speak, referenced above as the cast iron center) needs to be changed on the 16+ models..
ARB does not call that out.. They only reference the 3.31 ratio for the 16+s (which I find weird as we well in fact..) I had thought that the issue was always with the front diff and the rear is fine..
this is from their fit guide.. Vehicle Application Guides | ARB 4x4 Accessories - https://arbusa.com/guides/vehicle-application-guides/
ARB does not call that out.. They only reference the 3.31 ratio for the 16+s (which I find weird as we well in fact..) I had thought that the issue was always with the front diff and the rear is fine..
this is from their fit guide.. Vehicle Application Guides | ARB 4x4 Accessories - https://arbusa.com/guides/vehicle-application-guides/
CharlieS
GOLD Star
I am NOT an expert but am trying to figure this out.
Here is a post from an actual expert: Is there no Front E-Locker for 2016+ ? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/is-there-no-front-e-locker-for-2016.1200784/post-12997524
What I say here is probably wrong: I think the issue of needing the older carrier is IF you want to regear your '16+. If you are putting your locker in with your original 3.31 gears that came on your '16+, I think you can keep your original carrier.
Eric Sarjeant had posted some pictures of the diffs from various years. Found it: Is there no Front E-Locker for 2016+ ? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/is-there-no-front-e-locker-for-2016.1200784/post-12999505
I'm planning to regear to the 3.90 gears from an earlier land cruiser, so that's why I am asking all these questions.
Here is a post from an actual expert: Is there no Front E-Locker for 2016+ ? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/is-there-no-front-e-locker-for-2016.1200784/post-12997524
What I say here is probably wrong: I think the issue of needing the older carrier is IF you want to regear your '16+. If you are putting your locker in with your original 3.31 gears that came on your '16+, I think you can keep your original carrier.
Eric Sarjeant had posted some pictures of the diffs from various years. Found it: Is there no Front E-Locker for 2016+ ? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/is-there-no-front-e-locker-for-2016.1200784/post-12999505
I'm planning to regear to the 3.90 gears from an earlier land cruiser, so that's why I am asking all these questions.
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afgman786
SILVER Star
orangefj45
Supporting Vendor
You are correct.
You can run the Tundra diffs in the later 200s if you want to run a front locker.
Interesting, but don't the front tundra diffs have actuators?
Yes, the Tundra ADD disconnect actuator is on the extension shaft. Just transfer the extension from the 200-series over to the Tundra diff housing. Along with all the 200s mounts.
More details here
DIY 4.3 Re-Gear
After using 4.88 for about a year now, I don't see any drawback to this ratio. The mild increase in high speed (80 mph+) RPM over say a 4.56 or 4.33 (maybe 100 rpm?) isn't enough into the RPM range to increase engine noise at all (and at those speeds there are other noises that are louder). But...
forum.ih8mud.com
Awesome information! So what I have encompassed so far to get front and rear E-lockers on my 16' :
Regear is necessary if I want the front locked
Tundra front differential carrier will work with the mounts swapped
15' and older cast iron center section for the rear diff will have to be utilized if I plan to re-gear, but not necessary If i want a locker with the stock 3.31 gears.
Regear is necessary if I want the front locked
Tundra front differential carrier will work with the mounts swapped
15' and older cast iron center section for the rear diff will have to be utilized if I plan to re-gear, but not necessary If i want a locker with the stock 3.31 gears.
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Hey all, i put 2 Harrop elockers in my 2019 200 series , they are garbage, only 12 months old. locker did not engage. pulled it out and had large dents from the ballbearings and chipped teeth section, therefor the ramping/locking system did not work. Harrod refused warranty claim, said it was user fault. i had always engaged prior to climbing, they said i have engaged while under power. after watching some vidios now understanding the locker disengages if you roll backwards, then power forward, the locker would crach engage damaging the locker. so if on a steep climb you must not power forward ?, not sure how you can do this gently. poor design, no warranty. never again would i touch a Harrob elocker.
Technically mine is made by Eaton here in the states so no idea of warranty support.
Any photos of the damaged lockers? And they both failed the exact same? Unfortunate your first and only post is describing this “junk”, but I guess it is feedback. What is your plan? Replace with ARB?
Small update, I used my eLockers in Moab this week. Between the Nitro 4.88s and the lockers, I crawled up everything that was thrown at me. Stuff that Jeeps were spinning tires on Fins N Things I walked right up with just the center and rear diff locked. Ditto for whatever obstacle on that trail which seems to be a 60 degree climb up… no wheel spin at all. Never needed the front locker but I turned it on once or twice just to make sure it was working.
Just curious, what gear did you run while in 4lo? Automatic or keep it in 2nd?
Really depends on the trail. On Fins N Things I had it in 1st. On White Rim I used 2nd. I never use “D” when in 4Lo though - highest I’ll go is 4th gear… if I need to go faster I go back to 4Hi
I have an Eaton locker but I believe they are rebranded Harrop lockers in the USA. The instructions say they can be activated at up to 5mph/50rpm. Thus far my only complaint is that unlike the CDL there’s no light nor do I hear a click when they engage so I can’t tell if they worked until I start into an obstacle
I can’t speak to how you’ve used them. But I do know they can require a partial diff rotation to engage. So if you activate and then step on the gas they may actually engage until they are under significant load. That said I’ve not heard of many elocker failures… they’re generally considered very robust.
I’m disappointed to hear they won’t honor the warranty regardless. Did you install them or did you have a shop do it?
Did you have traction control completely off ? I've had mine set to rock and have only used the rear locker - it's pretty unstoppable !
I believe normal Traction control (VSA) is disabled when you lock the CDL. However I don’t think you can disable MTS (ATRAC) when in 4Lo. In any case I didn’t disable anything, just went 4Lo, locked center diff, and locked the rear. Presumably since the rear was locked MTS would only really modulate the front wheel spin… and it wouldn’t even do that if I had locked the front too
