Anyone running 3” standard length Delta radius arms on 37’s? (2 Viewers)

2000cruiser

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Wondering if anyone here is running the standard 3” @Delta VS radius arms on 37’s? I’m trying to figure out if I really need to get the long version when I go 37s later this year. Would love to get an idea how much more trimming I have to do upfront without the extra inch.

(I’m a running 3” icon setup on medium to light load so there’s a good amount of room at the moment)

Thanks in advance!
 

Delta VS

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Wondering if anyone here is running the standard 3” @Delta VS radius arms on 37’s? I’m trying to figure out if I really need to get the long version when I go 37s later this year. Would love to get an idea how much more trimming I have to do upfront without the extra inch.

(I’m a running 3” icon setup on medium to light load so there’s a good amount of room at the moment)

Thanks in advance!
Hopefully someone will pipe up here, we've sent plenty of them out.
 

2000cruiser

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@Delta VS I have a feeling I’ll be fine as many run on stock arms + caster plates and it sounds like the standard DVS arms are slightly longer than stock? But just wanted to get an idea of what I’ll be dealing with after driving out of the tire shop 😂

Here’s how it looks on fresh 35s

20EF261B-D139-4093-8553-6B68E99D1467.jpeg
0467CBCC-4668-4857-8AAC-2E951C0F8EA6.jpeg
 
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I don't have the delta arms, but I have had 37's and 38's with stock arms. I now have stock arms with new frame bracket/mounts moved down a couple inches and forward about 3.5" and 42" tires. The brackets are probably a pinch lower then they needed to be.

I can tell you that 37" mud grapplers did need just a pinch of trimming, more if you had your suspension articulating alot. 38's just barely got away with the slightest amount of rubbing, but not well under articulation.

I would much rather extend wheelbase and only cut fender on the front end and leave the firewall alone. Which is why I have moved the axle forward via the brackets.
Its the same at the rear, don't bother cutting the door side, just move the rear axle a couple inches rearwards and carve out the backside. The rear axle will rub on the door side sheet metal first as tires get larger.

If I was in your shoes I would want to move the axle minimum 1" forward, but if the 3" kit works, do that and trim on the front where needed.
 

COYS

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  • Running 37x12.5r17
  • Delta 4 arms (regular)
  • OME medium springs
  • Caster is at 4 degrees
When I ran Cooper AT3 XLTs, I was rubbing on that back side left front fender turning left at certain declines or inclines, reverse and forward. Now that I'm running BFG KM3s, I no longer rub simply because the MTs have a less squared off shoulder which is a pleasant surprise.

You're definitely going to have to cut the plastic bits there to run 37s even with Delta arms. If I were to do it again, I'm not sure I'd get the Ls simply because I don't want to change the stock wheelbase if I don't have to.

Good luck.

6A628947-3A94-4566-8F8C-CFFDF42A8BFC.jpeg
 
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JunkCrzr89

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Worst case, if they’re not long enough to avoid rubbing the firewall side, just install Redline’s $50 brackets

 

2000cruiser

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Thank you all for the great feedback, still waiting on a few armor bits and I'll try to run on the standard length arms and trim as needed- at least that's the plan for now :)
 

on the rocks

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Just to be clear on your first post you don't have to do ANY trimming with 37's and the 4L arms. I assume same thing with the 3L but not sure. You just mentioned "more trimming" so wanted to be clear on that. This is also assuming just turning and not talking offroad and limiting limiting up travel rubbing. To me its silly to chop up fenders when there is a perfect solution out there at no additional cost. Just my .02
 

COYS

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Just to be clear on your first post you don't have to do ANY trimming with 37's and the 4L arms. I assume same thing with the 3L but not sure. You just mentioned "more trimming" so wanted to be clear on that. This is also assuming just turning and not talking offroad and limiting limiting up travel rubbing. To me its silly to chop up fenders when there is a perfect solution out there at no additional cost. Just my .02

Pump the brakes, skippy.

For folks who are stock bodied like my 80, you’re most definitely trimming the front plastic factory corner bumperettes at a minimum. They will rub and will rub worse with longer versioned aftermarket arms like Delta’s.

Aftermarket bumper, way more room, but can’t speak on it as I don’t run one and won’t ever.

Inner fender liner on the backside can be bent or tapped for more room. If you look behind it, it's actually pretty flimsy and spaced far away from any heavy iron like the frame. No cutting necessary in my case described above.
 
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Been running 3" Icon lift for the last 3 yrs, on 35s and 37s with just caster plates and never had any problems before and now even with my 4" Slinky/Dobinson setup. But i am considering the 3" long version in hoping for more flex in the future....
 

on the rocks

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Interesting, I have never heard of anyone rubbing on the front. Fair enough, I would still rather cut the plastic over the metal tho. I went 13.5 and had way more to take away on the rear if I went that route. So many variables. I have run both Delta 4's and 4L's and everything about the long version and 37's was better here. I cant imagine the 3's would be much different. Something else to pre- check. I was out of spec on the caster on the 4's and the 4L corrected that as well.
 

JunkCrzr89

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FWIW I have no issue at the firewall side with 37s on stock radius and 28 yr-old factory suspension. 80 wheel wells are yuuuge 🤷🏻‍♂️

1654EEE0-043F-4E3C-ACF1-D3C6DBCA6E26.jpeg
 

Broski

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It all comes down to what the true tire & lift size is and if you really wheel it. Like the Goodyear MTR 37s are just over a 36" tall tire.

If your close to a true 37" tire and are going to run trails Like the Rubicon you need to cut about 3/4" at the back of the fender. theirs plenty of room for that before you get to the fire wall. Then you can gut the the fender flares.
Something like this.
1649903577145.png


If it's a mall crawler no trimming necessary.
 

JunkCrzr89

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Like the Goodyear MTR 37s are just over a 36" tall tire.
37x12.50r17 MTRs measure 36.8”, which is damn near a true 37. Perhaps you’re thinking of BFGs, which measure 36.3”.
 
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Anyone running 37s on stock suspension whatsoever is definitely a mall crawler. They definitely won't rub when you go over speed bumps even with flares on.. lol
 

JunkCrzr89

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Anyone running 37s on stock suspension whatsoever is definitely a mall crawler. They definitely won't rub when you go over speed bumps even with flares on.. lol
Yeah because bumpstop drops and properly offset wheels are irrelevant 🤦🏻‍♂️ If you ain’t rubbing then your tires are too damn small.
 
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There’s a lot of different types of “wheeling”.

Folks that are dragging things through bedrock will be using more of their suspension. Trails around here tend to be river bed round rock, potholed trails, and deep mud holes through narrow trails. Most of which don’t need intense articulation but a soft and supple suspension is nice for boulders the size of your head and pot holed gravel roads for long drives. And sometimes snow wheeling.

The previous suspension setup I had would rub a lot under articulation but I could air the bags up taller and try and take routes that didn’t stuff a front tire when the wheel was cranked to the side. You learn to work with what you got.

Now I have the clearance, but the tires rub radius arms. Meh.
 

Broski

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39s on a 3" lift and lots of cutting, out west you need a lot of articulation.
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