did you go with OEM or aftermarket axles?
Anyone have a CV Joint Failure? (1 Viewer)
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did you go with OEM or aftermarket axles?
Liam - see here for the latest information I've seen on the status of the RCVs axles (post #49 from spressomon on 2/11/2011):
https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series...mend-stock-c-v-joints-shafts-aftermarket.html
Basically the RCVs for 100s are not ready yet and has had hiccups along the way. So far from that post and others, I've seen lots of reports of issues with Napa or other off brand axles. OEM seem to the best bet right now. I would be curious to see what people say about Raxles.com (heard good things about them), but don't know of anyone that's tried them for 100s.
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I hope he went with OEM if he ever plans to wheel.
So i went to my mechanic who is doing my 90K service to hand him the CV boots i bought from AT (American Toyota). He said they have been without grease from some time and looking at them the boots are ripped and there is very very little grease at all. Also they are popping/clicking. So i decided to go ahead and replace them. He actually had already got some NAPA axles in and showed them to me. Surprisingly they seemed heavier than the OEM so i said "fawk it put them in". They have a lifetime warranty anyway and i'll reboot the OEMs and use as extras.
i'll report back after they in .
i'll report back after they in .
I did the same thing. I put a NAPA CV axle in - it lasted 5 months before it was puking grease everywhere and I have the diff drop. Pulled it and put OEM back in. NAPA axles are crap - you'll be swapping soon.
well .....they looked decent. I'll rebuild my OEMs and replace the NAPA when they puke grease.
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THEY SUCK! OEM FOLKS....OEM FOLKS! We don't go cheap on mods, bumpers and the like. Don't sell yourself out on cheap axx front axles. They play a real important part on the vehicle!
yeah, no dude. I was just going to reboot, but they needed to be replaced. He had the NAPA ones there and was finishing up my truck. They have a lifetime warranty on them and i didnt have the time to get OEM ones. I'll test these out and if they fail i'll slap in OEM....easy as that.
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well an update on my truck since i got it back. All is awesome except a bad shimmy while on the highway. Running about 50 you start to feel it, but it goes away when you let off the gas. So only under a load does it shank about. Guessing it is the CV joints since they were replaced. Took it back to my mechanic and he is going to go though the Ujoints and CV joints. Said me might just rebuild my OEM if he cant get them to set right.
definitely feels like something is out of balance.
definitely feels like something is out of balance.
???
That's odd. Why is he replacing components he didn't even touch initially?
Something is amiss. Did set the bearing preloads correctly on the front end?
Loose preload will induce shimmy on load.
Good luck.
That's odd. Why is he replacing components he didn't even touch initially?
Something is amiss. Did set the bearing preloads correctly on the front end?
Loose preload will induce shimmy on load.
Good luck.
he replaced the CVs....didnt use the boots i bought from you.
how bad of a shimmy will a loose preload bearing cause? this is a wicked bad shimmy under load
Loose, lolz
I've snapped a reman'd one
I've snapped a reman'd one
I wouldn't expect him to have touched the wheel bearings if all he was doing was replacing the half shafts. Of course if he did adjust the wheel bearings too loose that would cause shimmy...
I've seen numerous complaints about the napa or other crap brands being unbalanced at speed so that doesn't surprise me, although it sounds from Liam that his shimmy is very bad, maybe worse than such an imbalance would cause. Very possible that it was simply a defective part.
that is my guess as well. unbalanced CV axle.
This guy is a very reputable mechanic and i think he screw up wheel bearings
the shimmy is bad under a load only
When you say the shimmy is only bad under a load, do you mean only while accelerating?
What I am saying is that he wants to now replace the ujoints.
But he didn't touch the ujoints.
Why would he recommend this?
You do have to pull the hubs off to get to the half shafts. Which means that you have to set bearing preload when you put the hub back on regardless if he repacked them or not.
Anyway, just thinking aloud here.
The NAPA joints could be the issue as well. We have not had very good luck with either their half shafts or the racks on LCs.
But he didn't touch the ujoints.
Why would he recommend this?
You do have to pull the hubs off to get to the half shafts. Which means that you have to set bearing preload when you put the hub back on regardless if he repacked them or not.
Anyway, just thinking aloud here.
The NAPA joints could be the issue as well. We have not had very good luck with either their half shafts or the racks on LCs.
yes, while i've got my foot on the gas.....accelerating.
he doesnt want to replace the u-joints, he said he just greased them. The way the truck felt he said it feels like the u-joints or the CVs. as i said, im guessing the NAPA CVs are out of whack.
Not necessarily. You can remove the CV shaft without taking the hub bearing apart.
An aside: It is difficult to imagine the shudder/shake/imbalance is coming from CV shafts given how relatively slow they spin; unless they're getting ready to fall apart
