any one ever done a frame off?

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The body mounts are easy to replace. Just loosen all of the old ones and lift one side at a time an inch or two with some cribbage. I used new polyurethane mounts from LC Engineering when I did mine.

I also don't think you need to remove the body to inspect the frame.
 
i would like to rust bullet it or something, i have not found any bad spots but the hole damn thing is rusty, and the po had some kind of undercoating sprayed on it, but it peels of like first gen plasti-coat!
 
i would like to rust bullet it or something, i have not found any bad spots but the hole damn thing is rusty, and the po had some kind of undercoating sprayed on it, but it peels of like first gen plasti-coat!

Well painting and inspecting are two different things! :-)
 
It's not so bad but I would probably drop the gas tank, jack the body up a bit and do it all from underneath unless you have some other reason to pull the entire body off. The bed is no big deal and probably worth the trouble but the cab is a bit more of a pain because of the harness and other hookups, fuel & brake lines ect... Whenever I have to do this I have a bunch of large buddies over for pizza.
 
I have a 93 bare 2wd frame right now and just took the cab off.

we did it in the garage and just used a engine hoist with a 30' tow strap around the floor of the cab. actually worked really well, and none of us blew out our b-hole lifting
 
I am thinking of doing this to my camper this winter or next spring (timing depends on if it will fit in the garage door). It needs some cross members replaced and I would like to replace the body mounts and coat the frame.

Can anyone suggest what to coat the frame with? I was thinking of POR 15. Any other better options out there?
 
Por15 followed up by GulfWax or BoeShield once the Por15's cured. Nice waxy coating that'll make all the work last a bit longer.
 
I'll be using good 'ol Rustoleum Satin Black on my frame. I used it in rattlecans when I did my SAS back in '03, some of it still looks like the day I sprayed it on. I plan to have my frame sandblased, then I'll be brushing the outside, and probably spraying the inside with an undercoating gun I have.

I went the POR15 route before, never again. That stuff is too expensive, too hard to work with in the cans, and it didn't last for me. Yes, I followed their directions to the letter.

Once it's all back together, I'll continue with my annual undercoatings of 90W gear oil. Truck stinks for a few days, but it works. I still have my original front fenders, I pulled them off the other day expecting to toss them and get new ones, but they are still pristine underneath.
 
From experience, POR-15 is a PITA. Rustoleum, but my dirt-track racer buddies add a dollup of DuPont 999 hardener to it. You can then thin it to spray or even roll/brush it on, or so they tell me. Their cars take an incredible amount of abuse and clean up so shiny it's incredible. I'll probably try this trick on my beater/trail rig 4R that's in the works. Oh, and expect to find rust issues with your frame. My welding skills are progressing along nicely ...
 
I'll be using good 'ol Rustoleum Satin Black on my frame. I used it in rattlecans when I did my SAS back in '03, some of it still looks like the day I sprayed it on. I plan to have my frame sandblased, then I'll be brushing the outside, and probably spraying the inside with an undercoating gun I have.

I went the POR15 route before, never again. That stuff is too expensive, too hard to work with in the cans, and it didn't last for me. Yes, I followed their directions to the letter.

This is the right way to do it...
 
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