Any of you hundy guys running the new BFG KM2's???

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You have to run wheel spacers with any 315 width tire...assuming stock wheels are used.

Eric: The new GY MT/R comes in 285R75 18 (35" with 285 width). Guys are starting to come around to the taller narrower tires for but the choices in this size are slim but maybe slightly better than the 255R85 16 size. I'd even take a 275 width if I could get it in a 35"...17" or 18" doesn't matter to me.
 
What size are the Baja ATZ's? They look sweet.


285's....

You have to run wheel spacers with any 315 width tire...assuming stock wheels are used.

Eric: The new GY MT/R comes in 285R75 18 (35" with 285 width). Guys are starting to come around to the taller narrower tires for but the choices in this size are slim but maybe slightly better than the 255R85 16 size. I'd even take a 275 width if I could get it in a 35"...17" or 18" doesn't matter to me.



Thats good to know... Thanks spresso.

I wish they made a tire size like that in a 16in wheel!! arghhhh

hey, doest shotts use 315's w/o spacers?





Anyone else running this BFG's????!
 
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Yoter100, how have you liked the KM2's? I am considering going to the KM2's in a 315/75/16. Just found out from above that I might need spacers. Is the 1" spacer the appropriate size?
Thanks!
 
From my email to John Shotts:

Hello Shotts

I'm interested in putting 315/75/16 KM2s on my 2000 LC I've got the OME
t-bars and OME865s with the diff drop. I can see that you are running
these. What do I need to do to make them fit? Reading some posts yesterday
left me the impression that I might need spacers. Can you let me know what
you did to make yours work out?

Thanks!
Chris
mud name "Kahlua"


John Shotts Reply:

Hi Chris. I seen that thread. Spress's comment about "spacers must be used with any 315 tire" is plain trash. Folks shouldn't post unless they know what they're talking about. Sorry these posts make things confusing for those wanting to make changes. Now, on to the truth:

#1...Pics and eval here...and watch the auto slide show as well on my home page. There's some wheeling shots of the KM2's there. They not only look amazing but they are plain insane on the trail. Can you say GRIP!
http://shottscruisers.smugmug.com/ KM2 pics upper right.

#2...To run 315's? Easy, all bolt-on solution. I've run them for 100,000
miles. Wheeled them on a 75-100 trips. Again, the inaccurate info on MUD is just amazing and it usually comes from somebody who has done something "unusual" or "unique" so they push their agenda. Here's the real deal:

*You do NOT need spacers and that's GOOD news. Spacers put all kinds of added stress on the components. That's bad as lifts and large tires already add stress. The less things you can change the better for your vehicle. I would not use spacers for ANY reason on my truck.

http://shottscruisers.smugmug.com/Vehicle-Specs-and/2001-UZJ100/Upsize-to-31 5x75-16 Tires/984600_zxBZM#45560761_SF5zf

*You need to add 20mm (or 2 each 10mm) trim packs atop your rear springs. Cake...$50
*You need to raise/adjust the front to 2.75" above stock. Cake...$0
*You have the diff drop. $0

That's all unless you want to address some minor rubbing issues. These
solutions are easy as well.

*Rear...I didn't want the rubbing so I added 2-inch bump stop spacers. We made our own though Slee sells them for the 80 Series lifts...the stops are the same on the 100. Or, you could go with only 1-inch though you'd get an occasional rub when flexed out.
*Front...at full turn the tire rubs the upper arms a bit. A simple 5-minute
adjust of the turn-stops on each side eliminated this. It can't be any
easier!
*Front wheel well weld...we pounded is back a touch (oh, 1/4-inch) and spray painted the area.

You're done. My mechanic can make these changes in about an hour. Maybe 90-minutes. The change off-road is worth it for certain. If you like, Paste this replay into that Mud thread. Good luck.


John Shotts Second Reply:

Toyo MT's were the ones with the huge side lugs that rub bad on the arms. Very unusual though I'm sure a turn-stop adjust would fix that too...however I haven't done it.
 
Here you go fellas! My 100 on 315/75r16 KM2's!!!

Here are some pics of my 100 on BFG KM2's. Truck only has 1 inch lift and adjusted steering stops to keep tires from rubbing on tires. Other mods were done as well to prevent from rubbing while wheeling. Enjoy!!:)
P1310437.jpg
P1310438.jpg
P1310439.jpg
 
The KM2 35's sure are mean looking. Now color match those 16's!
 
From my email to John Shotts:

Hello Shotts

I'm interested in putting 315/75/16 KM2s on my 2000 LC I've got the OME
t-bars and OME865s with the diff drop. I can see that you are running
these. What do I need to do to make them fit? Reading some posts yesterday
left me the impression that I might need spacers. Can you let me know what
you did to make yours work out?

Thanks!
Chris
mud name "Kahlua"


John Shotts Reply:

Hi Chris. I seen that thread. Spress's comment about "spacers must be used with any 315 tire" is plain trash. Folks shouldn't post unless they know what they're talking about. Sorry these posts make things confusing for those wanting to make changes. Now, on to the truth:

#1...Pics and eval here...and watch the auto slide show as well on my home page. There's some wheeling shots of the KM2's there. They not only look amazing but they are plain insane on the trail. Can you say GRIP!
http://shottscruisers.smugmug.com/ KM2 pics upper right.

#2...To run 315's? Easy, all bolt-on solution. I've run them for 100,000
miles. Wheeled them on a 75-100 trips. Again, the inaccurate info on MUD is just amazing and it usually comes from somebody who has done something "unusual" or "unique" so they push their agenda. Here's the real deal:

*You do NOT need spacers and that's GOOD news. Spacers put all kinds of added stress on the components. That's bad as lifts and large tires already add stress. The less things you can change the better for your vehicle. I would not use spacers for ANY reason on my truck.

http://shottscruisers.smugmug.com/Vehicle-Specs-and/2001-UZJ100/Upsize-to-31 5x75-16 Tires/984600_zxBZM#45560761_SF5zf

*You need to add 20mm (or 2 each 10mm) trim packs atop your rear springs. Cake...$50
*You need to raise/adjust the front to 2.75" above stock. Cake...$0
*You have the diff drop. $0

That's all unless you want to address some minor rubbing issues. These
solutions are easy as well.

*Rear...I didn't want the rubbing so I added 2-inch bump stop spacers. We made our own though Slee sells them for the 80 Series lifts...the stops are the same on the 100. Or, you could go with only 1-inch though you'd get an occasional rub when flexed out.
*Front...at full turn the tire rubs the upper arms a bit. A simple 5-minute
adjust of the turn-stops on each side eliminated this. It can't be any
easier!
*Front wheel well weld...we pounded is back a touch (oh, 1/4-inch) and spray painted the area.

You're done. My mechanic can make these changes in about an hour. Maybe 90-minutes. The change off-road is worth it for certain. If you like, Paste this replay into that Mud thread. Good luck.


John Shotts Second Reply:

Toyo MT's were the ones with the huge side lugs that rub bad on the arms. Very unusual though I'm sure a turn-stop adjust would fix that too...however I haven't done it.



As usual he talks out of both sides of his arse; how convenient in the same post no less. They "do not rub" then they "do rub", but this, but that. And it is humorous how he finds the rest of us 'with agenda'; 'untrue information'; even to the point of challenging some very, very highly knowledgeable industry experts (of which I am self admittedly not one ;)) who do this for a living!

The reality is you have very, very tight clearance with most 315 tires. Just less clearance for stones, mud, etc. And, although not important for many fair weather travelers, John included, you can't run recovery chains with 315s without spacers.

FYI: With the 60mm of offset the wheel on our 100's sits virtually as far inboard as a wheel can especially compared to an 80 (relative to the wheel bearings). 1" will do zero harm to our wheel bearings assuming you are using quality wheel spacer adapters and they are torqued properly.

You can however argue steering scrub effect from the 1.5" additional track width (1" spacer x 2 minus the 1/2" decreased track width at 2.75") although he doesn't mention that. But heh...I suppose its not important when driving to/fro the mall.

At 2.75" of lift you've decreased the front track width by about 1/2" or possibly a little more. Funny how that doesn't bother him. Nor does he mention the additional stresses (FAR MORE THAN ANY 1" SPACER!) placed upon the entire front end components by running 35" tires. But then again he's only replaced 4 or maybe 5 now steering racks so I guess that hasn't registered yet with him.

He's a funny man that John!
 
I don't see the point of running bump stops and decreasing the turn radius. The 100 is lacking articulation and it's a long wheelbase wagon. So turn radius ain't great to begin with. I'm not convinced that spaces add more stress than a rim with greater offset. But spacers do mean 5 more bolts per wheel that are buried and need to be checked regularly for correct torque. I agree with the 285x18"rim tire folks and think it's a better way to go than 315's. Traction is not where I struggle so I prefer AT tires myself. Mud tires look sweet, but AT's suit my needs better. ih8mud. iluvrock.

John seems like a smart guy but comments like, "now on to the truth" and "my mechanic can make these changes in about an hour" rub many of us the wrong way. Most of us share our opinions, it is acceptable to me if you disagree with my opinion, but please respect mine.

315's and no winch? Mall Cruiser alert!!! (look good BTW)
 
Why is there no mention about bump stopping the front when running 34'+ tires? I can tell you without question if I turn my tires to lock either way and compress the front without bump stops I will crush the fender. Are OME T-bars so stiff you cant get full compression out of them or what?
295 fender.JPG
 
Nice looking rig there MastaYota, and welcome aboard.
The Mickey Thompsons are holding up very nice with about 10k on them now, and the noise is staying the same as it was at 2k. Absolutely no rubbing problems what so ever with my lift. Going to the 285's and staying with the stock 4:30 gears made about a 1.8 MPG loss though.
The BFG's have some great tread and are getting good reviews, but keep us all posted on howyours are doing after some miles.
 
Why is there no mention about bump stopping the front when running 34'+ tires? I can tell you without question if I turn my tires to lock either way and compress the front without bump stops I will crush the fender. Are OME T-bars so stiff you cant get full compression out of them or what?


I can get my tire to kiss the inner upper fender skirt at full compression...but I have to be doing something stupid like going too fast :D

Otherwise its not an issue.
 
MastaYota your rig is starting to look off road worthy. when do we get to break those puppies in? :cool: and not on the sand either!:flipoff2:
 
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Bump stops in the front would decrease the already amazing 7" of articulation. 'Most' 35" guys are running 12mm body lifts. Love the nitto's
 
the already amazing 7" of articulation.

went wheeling with a friend who owns a modified SAS toyota. I got wheel lift upfront and he start yelling at me... I stopped and he said something is wrong with my suspension becuase my wheel didn't come down that much. I told him to take a picture and come around and show me. Well, I saw it and explained we have 7" of travel and there is nothing wrong with it. :lol:
 
Bump stops in the front would decrease the already amazing 7" of articulation. 'Most' 35" guys are running 12mm body lifts. Love the nitto's

Even with a 12mm body lift if you can get full compression ~34"+ tires will hit the fender.
 
Even with a 12mm body lift if you can get full compression ~34"+ tires will hit the fender.


Maybe less of an issue with mine due to the little more rearward sit of the tire with Carl's UCAs. And I'm only running 10mm wheel spacers. I did have problems bottoming into the lower fender when I had 1" wheel spacers, pre-body lift, stock OEM UCAs and 315/75R16 size tires which necessitated a little fender massaging by my body guy :rolleyes:
 

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