Any ideas on no heat happening!
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Ok here is the "Elbert" method to burp..
Start when engine is cold or you can otherwise safely open the radiator cap. Eaiser to do if you can either jack the front of the vehicel up or park on an incline whith the front of the vehicle at the high end.
Open raidator cap, start engine. Turn heat to maxt heat on both heaters, turn fan on high. Let truck run at idle while watching temp guage. Fill radiator as full as you can without overflowing. Continue to run truck until thermostat cycles and you see operating temp on guage or you get very close to that. Have water hose near to wash overlflow from radiator if you need to. Continue to let truck run with radiator cap off and monitor temp guage. Once you are sure the truck is a operating temp, fill radiator full, replace radiator cap and fill overlfow jug to correct level. Take truck out and test drive be generous with throttle, come back and geck overflow jug for proper level. You should have heat and the coolant level should be at the correct level.
LC bad about getting air in system, anytime you screw with heater hoses or anything else in the cooling system. You may find yourself doing this procedure any time you have to replace a heater hose or thermostat.
Start when engine is cold or you can otherwise safely open the radiator cap. Eaiser to do if you can either jack the front of the vehicel up or park on an incline whith the front of the vehicle at the high end.
Open raidator cap, start engine. Turn heat to maxt heat on both heaters, turn fan on high. Let truck run at idle while watching temp guage. Fill radiator as full as you can without overflowing. Continue to run truck until thermostat cycles and you see operating temp on guage or you get very close to that. Have water hose near to wash overlflow from radiator if you need to. Continue to let truck run with radiator cap off and monitor temp guage. Once you are sure the truck is a operating temp, fill radiator full, replace radiator cap and fill overlfow jug to correct level. Take truck out and test drive be generous with throttle, come back and geck overflow jug for proper level. You should have heat and the coolant level should be at the correct level.
LC bad about getting air in system, anytime you screw with heater hoses or anything else in the cooling system. You may find yourself doing this procedure any time you have to replace a heater hose or thermostat.
no not really.
Also with the cap off its obviously gonna spit some coolant out of the rad while warming up dont worry its normal. be sure to let it run for a good bit after it warms up. that way it can try and work that bubble or air pocket outta there.
Also with the cap off its obviously gonna spit some coolant out of the rad while warming up dont worry its normal. be sure to let it run for a good bit after it warms up. that way it can try and work that bubble or air pocket outta there.
The radiator is about 4" higher than the rest of the cooling system, so the incline is not needed, but can help. Remember Matt, the truck has Propylene Glycol antifreeze so do not add water. Use Sierra or Evans coolant full strength only.
Are there any close up pics of the rear of the radiator such that I can see the details of the fans and how they are mounted. I'm going try a custom shroud and SPAL electric fan on my 4 core brass radiator when I do the V-8 Swap, but may have to look into something like the Rond Davis setup depending on the temps I experience the coming summer. I do plan on having the A/C operational.
The plan right now is to run a single 16" SPAL electric fan (Since I allready have the fan and a controller) . I've to look at a friends pickup of the same year as my vortec to check the heater hose routing but I do know on my pickup there is a return on the RH radiator tank. Of course the LC does not have this.
A pics of the rear of the radiator such that I can see the "details"?
Let me know how your heat issue turns out.
The plan right now is to run a single 16" SPAL electric fan (Since I allready have the fan and a controller) . I've to look at a friends pickup of the same year as my vortec to check the heater hose routing but I do know on my pickup there is a return on the RH radiator tank. Of course the LC does not have this.
A pics of the rear of the radiator such that I can see the "details"?
Let me know how your heat issue turns out.
So Matt got this thing over here bright and early this am. So far we did the burp method and no air in system as far as we can tell. So for the hoses. The hose on the lower heater core side coming from the bottom of the radiator is cold and the outlet is luke warm. Both upper and lower hoses are warm/ hot to touch. So... still air in system, restricted heater core or?? Any help is appreciated. We will be trying to button all this up today so any help is appreciated.
CliNt
CliNt
Here's what I would do. If you have a "hot" heater hose on one side of the heater core and a cold one on the other side. Let truck cool off and get one of the flush type kits and flush the heater core the best you can (from both sides), letting the flush solution drain off.
Do the burp routine again..... see if any difference. By the way you may want to look at a GM truck of the same year as your engine to make sure you have the heater hoses setup right (I assume you do).
If the flush does not work and the burp process does not work then it would only lead me to believe that the heater core needs replacing. I realize a heater core job just about always sucks.
Unless there is crap blocking those heater hoses it would appear to me that the heater core is (1) restricted by "crap", or (2) needs replacing.
I'm assuming your radiator is clean and the coolant is in good shape...no sludge, no rusty looking crap in the coolant?
Try flushing the heater core. I don't know from here what else to check. But the heater hoese to and from the heater core should be hot such that you would not want to hold them very long.
Does not seem to me to be anything else in the heater circuit left but the heater core.
Did you ever say how hot the engine is running at normal temp?
The difference in the temps of the hoses is the clue to look at the heater core. If you have hot coolant coming in to the heater core, it should be reasonablly hot when it exits the core. IF its not (and given that the heater control valve is working right) then I think you're looking a problem with the heater core.
Heater cores normally don't cost that much..... you could simply run the hoses to a spare heater core.
My FJ60 has two heater cores..... one under the drivers seat and one in the dash. You can check the heater hose temps for the one under the drivers seat by just testing the metal pipes that run under the floor board RH side that feed the rear heater core. I would mayb try to get a little pressure goigng with your water hose when you flush..... dont' go crazy....but more than just gravity feed.
Heater cores normally don't cost that much..... you could simply run the hoses to a spare heater core.
My FJ60 has two heater cores..... one under the drivers seat and one in the dash. You can check the heater hose temps for the one under the drivers seat by just testing the metal pipes that run under the floor board RH side that feed the rear heater core. I would mayb try to get a little pressure goigng with your water hose when you flush..... dont' go crazy....but more than just gravity feed.
hi elbert,
thanks for the response. There is only one heater core in this truck. As far as the system cleanliness in concerned this thing is so clean you could eat off of it. Absolutely no signs or any reason for that matter to believe there is debris in the system. back to the drawing board to see what we can find.
also the hoses them selfs are not hot/ warm at ALL. it appears that the fluid just is not circ through the core.
thanks, clint
thanks for the response. There is only one heater core in this truck. As far as the system cleanliness in concerned this thing is so clean you could eat off of it. Absolutely no signs or any reason for that matter to believe there is debris in the system. back to the drawing board to see what we can find.
also the hoses them selfs are not hot/ warm at ALL. it appears that the fluid just is not circ through the core.
thanks, clint
Clint,
What is the temp of the engine when its fully warmed up?
Allthough I've not asked before what tye of GM V-8 are we talking about and do you know the year model of the engine and what it came out of? I think you need to find a pickup that has the same type of engine setup and look at the heater hose routing.
I'm wondering if the heater hose plumbing is somehow screwed up as it routes to the heater core and out, and then to the radiator?
On my 92 GM pickup with 350 TBI, the heater hose runs from the rear of the intake to the heater core and then from the heater core direct to the radiator.
I don't know if you guys have a vortec 5.7 or 454 setup or what... but basically the coolant will run from the engine at some point to the heater core and then return to the engine or to the radiator. Different year 350's and bigblocks have coolant fittings at different locations on the intake and then some have ones on the water pump and the radiator. Like I said its important to check out a vehicle
that has an engine setup similar to what you guys have.
Is the heater hose hot that runs to the heater control valve....are you running the totyota heater control valve that's mounted to the firewall?
I think it would be helpful to take some pics of the heater hose layout and post them to this thread.
What year and size is the engine?
What is the temp of the engine when fully warmed up?
If no pics, then descirbe the full heater hose routing from engine to heater core and back.
Lets see some pics of the heater hoses routing and plumbing. We may be just stabing in the dark, where a pic may show the problem.
What is the temp of the engine when its fully warmed up?
Allthough I've not asked before what tye of GM V-8 are we talking about and do you know the year model of the engine and what it came out of? I think you need to find a pickup that has the same type of engine setup and look at the heater hose routing.
I'm wondering if the heater hose plumbing is somehow screwed up as it routes to the heater core and out, and then to the radiator?
On my 92 GM pickup with 350 TBI, the heater hose runs from the rear of the intake to the heater core and then from the heater core direct to the radiator.
I don't know if you guys have a vortec 5.7 or 454 setup or what... but basically the coolant will run from the engine at some point to the heater core and then return to the engine or to the radiator. Different year 350's and bigblocks have coolant fittings at different locations on the intake and then some have ones on the water pump and the radiator. Like I said its important to check out a vehicle
that has an engine setup similar to what you guys have.
Is the heater hose hot that runs to the heater control valve....are you running the totyota heater control valve that's mounted to the firewall?
I think it would be helpful to take some pics of the heater hose layout and post them to this thread.
What year and size is the engine?
What is the temp of the engine when fully warmed up?
If no pics, then descirbe the full heater hose routing from engine to heater core and back.
Lets see some pics of the heater hoses routing and plumbing. We may be just stabing in the dark, where a pic may show the problem.
The engine runs at the thermostat temp + or - 10 degrees. The tstat temp is 195. It still sound s like the heater core may be stopped up. Try removing both hoses again from the heater core and run a hose to one side. If green coolant comes out, then it turns clear from the water, the core is fine.
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This engine is a 502 from Mercruiser. Yes a boat engine. The heater plumbing has been the same for 5 years and has always worked. One heater hose runs from the head pressure side to the heater core then dumps in to the radiator at the bottom suction side.
Have you checked out the duct work? I'm not sure how it is with the 60s but other trucks I've had door that would iso the heater core. Controlled by ether a cable or vacuum. This is just a thought, I have not ever looked at mine to see how it works.
good luck
good luck
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- #37
MUD WE HAVE HEAT!!!!! Thanks everyone for there help. Esp Clint who spent all day working on the truck with me. Gary-thanks for the phone call as well. Looks like it was air in the system. Parked on a incline(thanks elbert) and burped it. Finally heat came through!! Now on to deq soon and all will be well.
good!.... I know some people have heard gurgling sounds under the dash with air pockets. I would have to say the the LC is the biggest pain in the @$$ with air in the cooling system on the cars I own. It also has the strangest setup of hard line and hoses the world has ever seen on the cooling system.
Sometimes the little things bit you in the @$$... good news. I think you'll see a lot of people have been through the same headaches with the cooling system dealing with air pockets.
Sometimes the little things bit you in the @$$... good news. I think you'll see a lot of people have been through the same headaches with the cooling system dealing with air pockets.
thanks again for all the help. I finally had enough and went from heater core forward on the system flushing everything and burping the system. So far looks like all is well.
on a side note, Gary, after the flush etc. we have about 3-4 qts of h20 running through the system. the truck runs and cools just fine but was wondering if we should be worried about that little amount after our conversation today. please let me know.
Thanks, CliNt
on a side note, Gary, after the flush etc. we have about 3-4 qts of h20 running through the system. the truck runs and cools just fine but was wondering if we should be worried about that little amount after our conversation today. please let me know.
Thanks, CliNt
im currious as to the coolant type you / gary used. any info on it? sound kinda neat just running it full strength.