Anti-Wrap Traction Bar

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A couple of things I’m considering building mine.



When looking at the “FC” traction bar mount that attaches to the rear end he wraps the mount around the housing, I think this is a good idea and not possible with the Ruff Stuff kit.

I like the idea of not using standard Heim Rod End’s on a street driven vehicle and believe something like Johnny joints or the Barnes Enduro Joints are better suited, again not an option with the Ruff Stuff kit.

So I’m looking at building my own with the parts I believe best suited to my needs for about the same money as the kits you listed.
 
Thanks to you both

So I was thinking the complete kit would be two traction bars each with an upper an lower arm, but reading Ron's post I guess this kit is just a single traction bar with an upper and lower arm, is that right? I guess, again as Ron pointed out, the simple kit is two bars, but each with a single arm. If I've got that right, thanks for the clarification Ron. If I'm off track, uhh, could you take another shot at splainin' it Ron? :D

Jmack, what is the FC traction bar mount you mentioned? I had hoped to try to avoid starting from scratch, but if that's necessary, so be it. I don't know anything (at all) about heim rod ends, Johnny joints or enduro joints. Why were you wanting to change the rod ends?
 
TuffMudder said:
Jmack, what is the FC traction bar mount you mentioned?
Click to expand...

Look at these pictures of Liljohn's rear mount. This was built by "FC"


Lil'John said:
Dug some pictures of mine up:
trackbar1_sml-jpg.290098

trackbar2_sml-jpg.290099


You can see how the brackets and "wraparound" section cover about 2/3s of the axle. If I recall right, the brackets are 1/4" plate. Yes, I've also got sway bars :) The tubing is all 1.5" DOM .250" wall:eek:
Click to expand...



TuffMudder said:
I don't know anything (at all) about heim rod ends, Johnny joints or enduro joints. Why were you wanting to change the rod ends?
Click to expand...
Standard Heim ends will get a bit noisy and IMHO not well suited for a daily driven vehicle. Google had tons of info on this subject.
 
Alright, that helps a ton. I'll do a little more research and talk with my builder tomorrow then decide which direction to go.

Thanks
 
J Mack said:
Standard Heim ends will get a bit noisy and IMHO not well suited for a daily driven vehicle. Google had tons of info on this subject.
Click to expand...

The key to quieting is Tri-Flow, an aerosol lubricant sold at and used for high end bikes.

If the misalignment capabilities are deemed beneficial enough to warrant heims, it's an invaluable tool, but of a similar mind that their benefit doesn't outweigh maintenance, at least on the one platform of mine that is riddled with heims.
 
I'm guessing here, but a consideration of which joint to use, would include what it's made off. The corrosion of some Heims is bad, because they weren't made for the elements, I used heims from work that rusted up quick, price was right though! :)
 
Haven't noticed corrosion on ball part of the heims, but the shanks are getting nasty.

They do complain louder and more frequently as they've aged, but any of the producers will say-

"Race car parts make race car noises."

I don't own a race car so not sure why I need to hear the race car noises. Ha.
 
Delancy said:
If the misalignment capabilities are deemed beneficial enough to warrant heims,.
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I'm thinking the Barnes 4WD Enduro Joint provide 40 degrees of misalignment and should be better suited for a daily driver?



From their site,
When Barnes 4WD designed the Enduro Joint we combined the best materials, the best manufacturing processes and the best steel and poly urethane treatments available all in one joint. The body of the Enduro Joint is Forged 4140 heat treated Chromalloy steel. We did not try to cut any corners by making a short threaded shank like a heim joint instead we give you 3.25” of 1.25-12 threaded shank. That is over one inch longer than 1.25” heims on the market. The Enduro Joint’s ball is made from 52100 bearing steel and incorporates the high misalignment spacers all into one piece of steel that provide 40 degrees of misalignment. Forty degrees of misalignment will net almost 33” of travel on a four foot control arm. The spherical bearing is then Hard Chrome plated to provide an ultra smooth surface and has proven to provide excellent corrosion protection. The mounting width of the Enduro Joint is 2 5/8” and accepts a 5/8” bolt. The spanner nut locking mechanism ensures that the joint will not come apart and if ever needed an easy way to add more bearing preload. The cups that the spherical bearing rides on are an 88 durometer poly urethane that ensures maximum life, no squeaks like heim joints and they help to dampen axle vibrations felt through the chassis. The body of the joint and the spanner nut are gold zinc plated to ensure that the Enduro Joint looks great for the life of the joint. Once the joint is fully assembled we are still not finished making the ultimate joint. Every completed Enduro Joint assembly is then Cryogenically Treated to give the Enduro Joint the most strength and greatest wear characteristics possible
 
That's what I'm talking about! They sure make them sound nice.

Edit.. Looked at their web site, have some neat stuff.
 
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Lil'John said:
Dug some pictures of mine up:
trackbar1_sml-jpg.290098

trackbar2_sml-jpg.290099
Click to expand...


I'm getting back on my antiwrap bar, looking at your pictures it appears that your bar is offset to the drivers side.

How important is it the the bar is centered?
 
they all seem to be like that AFAICS...
 
love how he just says..."ripped apart"...so casually
 
Thanks guys!!

I’ll see what I can do keep from shredding the housing.
 
Thank you Ron, this is all new to me and I'm trying to not screw it up:hillbilly:
 
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