Another LS Swapped 40

[FullyLitLED]

Hey guys,

Posting this just to document the process.

This FJ40 had the original 2F in it.

Plans:
-5.3 LS with truck FEAD
-4L60 transmission
-Tcase (undecided)
-Holley Terminator X max (had great success with this recently

Pending:
-Shortened 80 rear axle


Currently have a mini truck power steering box…reason for this is to provide maximum clearance and no part of it obstructs any area between the frame rails. Space is at a shortage with LS swaps

Frame is coming apart soon so that I can get it blasted and coated! Frame has the shackle reversal already. Trying to keep this an OEM looking build but with a modern powertrain.

 

[cruisermatt]

If you are doing all that work go with a 80 steering box, split transfer case, and flip the rear springs and it will drive amazingly well.
80 steering box will get you way better clearance and make a transformative handling improvement
Don’t get your chassis blasted and powder coated until the end. Huge mistake to do that first. That's the last thing you do, not the first.
Skip the narrowed 80 rear and just do a FJ60 axle, much simpler and easier.
I would undo the shackle reversal personally.

 

[FullyLitLED]

If you are doing all that work go with a 80 steering box, split transfer case, and flip the rear springs and it will drive amazingly well.
80 steering box will get you way better clearance and make a transformative handling improvement
Don’t get your chassis blasted and powder coated until the end. Huge mistake to do that first. That's the last thing you do, not the first.
Skip the narrowed 80 rear and just do a FJ60 axle, much simpler and easier.
I would undo the shackle reversal personally.

Thanks for the advice!!! I was reading somewhere that flipping the rear springs would add like 3 to 4 inches of wheelbase? Would mean for me to make it look right I’d need to redo the wheel arches?

 

[pb4ugo]

Thanks for the advice!!! I was reading somewhere that flipping the rear springs would add like 3 to 4 inches of wheelbase? Would mean for me to make it look right I’d need to redo the wheel arches?

Yep!,

 

[clrussell]

If you are doing all that work go with a 80 steering box, split transfer case, and flip the rear springs and it will drive amazingly well.
80 steering box will get you way better clearance and make a transformative handling improvement
Don’t get your chassis blasted and powder coated until the end. Huge mistake to do that first. That's the last thing you do, not the first.
Skip the narrowed 80 rear and just do a FJ60 axle, much simpler and easier.
I would undo the shackle reversal personally.

This ^^

 

[cruisermatt]

Looks like you have body work to do anyways, if you do it right it looks good. Every time I show one we’ve done to a customer I have to explain that it’s not stock and it takes them awhile to even understand what I am trying to show them

If you don’t do this your rear driveshaft will be way too short.

 

[FullyLitLED]

Looks like you have body work to do anyways, if you do it right it looks good. Every time I show one we’ve done to a customer I have to explain that it’s not stock and it takes them awhile to even understand what I am trying to show them

If you don’t do this your rear driveshaft will be way too short.

View attachment 4152879

It also definitely looks better in a larger wheel well!

 

[rlong]

I think Terminator X is the way to go, although I have not done it myself I’ve done all the leg(brain?) work. I’m thinking of 700r4 to avoid computer tech running trans (already picked up core), but interested in your thoughts.

 

[clrussell]

I’m 100% against aftermarket software and harnesses.

The OEM stuff is so easy and perfectly reliable.

But I’m on my lawn and don’t care who joins me.

(Guy with an LS40 and OEM wiring/ computer that I drive every day)

 

[yotadude520]

I’m 100% against aftermarket software and harnesses.

The OEM stuff is so easy and perfectly reliable.

But I’m on my lawn and don’t care who joins me.

(Guy with an LS40 and OEM wiring/ computer that I drive every day)

I'm with you on that. Thought about doing a Holley Terminator on my swap but ended up going with a harness from BP Automotive and ran the stock computer. The Holley stuff might work well but stock Chevy sensors are everywhere and they are remarkably simple designs. Mine's been a DD since the swap and I've had zero issues with it - just keep it simple.

 

[cruisermatt]

Holley isn’t for everyone but it is proven as a solid and reliable option with a lot of advantages.

I think Terminator X is the way to go, although I have not done it myself I’ve done all the leg(brain?) work. I’m thinking of 700r4 to avoid computer tech running trans (already picked up core), but interested in your thoughts.

It’s literally one electrical connector. It couldn’t be easier. So many advantages to electronic gear selection and lockup control. Leave the 700r4 in 1985 where it belongs

 

[FullyLitLED]

I am two swaps in on the Holley each with varying difficulty. Most recent one in a JDM Evo converted to an LS3. Not for everyone but man having an easy hookup to guages on a single screen is nice. I do understand it is not for purists as if you run this you will most likely not run oem style guage clusters.

Strictly wiring…had this Terminator X running in less than 6 hours going slow

 

[rlong]

Holley isn’t for everyone but it is proven as a solid and reliable option with a lot of advantages.



It’s literally one electrical connector. It couldn’t be easier. So many advantages to electronic gear selection and lockup control. Leave the 700r4 in 1985 where it belongs

I appreciate the advice from you! That was one of the reasons I was looking at terminator X max; to control 4L60e. I have a crate Vortec “lying around” so no (used) LS system here. No fear of efi here.. ran and worked on Gen1 Bosch EFI in a 70’s VW fast back (PIA) and worked on multiple Bosch / BMW systems. I’m in Colorado (huge altitude range) so efi is the only way long term.