Another cruiser gets a vortec

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iaintscared1969 said:
I may be getting a little carried away but I think it looks good. Next will be the tranny and the installation of the new end shaft and possibly a TCI upgrade kit.:grinpimp:
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Educate me plz.. what is a TCI upgrade and does it do? Would that be messing with smog equipment?... If it does may be is something I can do later on...


iaintscared1969 said:
Here's a little trick I have always done but seem to forget to post it. This is something every racer has done in their lifetime....
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Thanks for the TIP on this.... I see it went from OVAL to almost a perfect circle... right ?
By the way that engine looks freaking bling bling eh...
Im almost ready to pull out the tape roll and spray away !!!

Really nice work and thanks for all the DETAIL (small stuff) on this write up..I think that is what makes a rookie take the plunge on a project of this magnitude...

Keep up the great write up...
Im sure lots of us are watching closely...

Laters,
 
No problem...Glad you liked it and yes the ports turn out really nice and it helps the exhaust flow MUCHO BUENO. As for the TCI kit that is a little late for you. It is for the tranny. It is an upgraded clutch pack that improves shift quality and towing ability. But not to worry you can do it on your next one.:grinpimp:
 
This is perfect timing. I just found a fellow cruiser head to donoate my 2f to. so now I can start digging in. Scheduled date is Sunday the 9th to pull the 2f..

Thanks for the detail here and in Mr. Zero's thread. I am sure I will come up with many questions, hopefully they won't all be dumb ones.

Jamie
 
That's great to hear. I will answer anything I can. I am alway's glad to help. Got the engine ready to pull here...Just need to make a little room in the garage. I will post up some pics tomorrow.
 
The pig is out!!

OK guys here is tonights progress. The secret to do this by yourself is to have the tranny jack on the back end till you can set it down and rechain. Also the pic is of the ECU harness that needs to be disconnected. The rest is pretty straight forward.
oldecu.webp
thesecret.webp
out1.webp
 
OK, who needs a sweet 3FE w/ automatic tranny?
Nice job on the extraction. I guess it's too late to change my mind now!
 
Thanks Scott, Now the fun begins. It is clean up time!! Keep you all posted on the progress. The harness should be done this week and I will be ready for it.:bounce2: And take it from me if anyone gets this engine you will not be sorry. It is running and looking good. Not a leak one under her. Oh and if you do change your mind and want the 3FE back in there I will just keep that sweet looking red engine:grinpimp:
 
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iaintscared1969 said:
The harness should be done this week
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I just pulled the stock harness off my 5.3 and need to think about what new harness to get. FIS seems to be the most talked about, but I think you mentioned a custom FIS one too. I want the simplest one. Here comes a noob engine swapper question. Does the new harness replace the entire stock one? Or do I need to splice things into the old one. I have seen poeple mention a 4 wire hook up. Is that the most common way for a harness to come? I can handle that, I think.

My new motor has about 60k on it. Besides cleaning it up, what work should I do before thinking about putting it in?

Thanks for the threads again, and the excel spread sheet.
 
That's what I am working on right now. I got the TCI kit today!! So we are moving along quick. As for the harness when you order a harness you can design it anyway you like with or with out many factory sensors. ECU mount length ETC. Just get a good idea of how the truck will run and with what then go from there. Example, Drive by wire or cable., all 4 O2 sensors or 2, Purge or no purge, VATS, auto tranny or manual. You do have to tie into the existing harness but if you marked your old connectors you already have what you need. So just keep up with me and you will get most of what you need right here. Also if you like I have a harness layout already at FIS you can ask Jeff about. Oh and you need to run your fuel lines now and clean and prep the frame. You won't have this chance again.
 
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Shin... You also need to block of the Throttle body heater line. It's the tube under the throttlebody that allows hot water to flow through the base of the throttle body. Also you need to run your t connection for the oil pressure sender and the temp sender. You have to use both the Toyota and GM senders for your factory gauges to work Or find a Sender that comes close to the same ohm reading for both. I am not a book worm and it doesn't bother me to tee them off. Also polish and port your heads and double check the compression on the engine. It should be good but better to be safe than sorry.
 
iaintscared1969 said:
You have to use both the Toyota and GM senders for your factory gauges to work Or find a Sender that comes close to the same ohm reading for both.
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Not sure I get this part. Why would you use both Toy and GM senders to get the Toy gauges to work?
 
I never could get the Toy gauge to work right running off of the GM sender. I am sure somewhere there is a sender that would work for both but it was easier to run the 2 senders. So do you have a new project in the works? Not often I get a post from a Master Toy builder.
 
iaintscared1969 said:
Also you need to run your t connection for the oil pressure sender and the temp sender. You have to use both the Toyota and GM senders for your factory gauges to work Or find a Sender that comes close to the same ohm reading for both. I am not a book worm and it doesn't bother me to tee them off.
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Call me stupid, but I have no idea of what you mean when you say this. Do you mean that I have to run both senders to the same guage thus creating the correct ohm reading for the factory guage? That don't make sence in my pretty little head.
 
OK... GM has a sender that controls it's ECU and gauge function. That sender when I connect it to the Toy gauge gives my gauge a false reading. To avoid that I put the Toy gauge on and wired it as stock and have the GM gauge wired also. I am sure if I went to Orielly's and dug into the sending unit book I could find a sender that would run them both. But the most important sender is the GM unit since it controls the ECU. No oil PSI no start, No temp, No start. A simple fix for a gauge. I should dig into this some more just to make it clean.
Here is the Sensor spec. for an 02 Tahoe Temp sender.Basically one sender for the gauge and one for the ECU.


Ohms of resistance
MIN MAX F C
26680 26680 -4 -20
12300 12300 23 -5
7280 7280 41 5
3520 3520 68 20
1459 1459 104 40
467 467 158 70
177 177 212 100

Yota for 1988 3FE

10000 20000 -4 -20
4000 7000 32 0
2000 3000 68 20
200 400 176 80
100 300 212 100


See how the gauge will get sideways?
 
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