..And so it begins.... my BJ40 frame off restoration

[Volcano cruiser]

John

The colour code on my FJ40 LX is 6L4 if you like that colour (olive green). She was white when I bought her (yuck), so I took her down to the tub and painted her green.

6L4 is a popular colour in Central America (it is also the colour my HJ75 pickup was when I lived in Panama- which is why I chose to paint this one that colour), so I am sure you can get it made up. When we move back to the US, we will hopefully be back in New Mexico (unless my wife gets her way and we go back to New York City), so there is very little chance that you and I will be at the same party with the same colour Cruisers.

What springs did you get? My OME's are wonderful on both my FJ40 and my HJ47. I put them on, and they were a dream straight away. On the other hand, a mate of mine in New Mexico put Iron Man suspension on his 1980 FJ40, and if you drove over a dime in the road, you could tell what year it was- they were bloody aweful!!

Josh,
Do you have a picture of your rig after it was painted. The olive green/brown was one of my original choices until I saw how widely the color varied using the same paint code. Toyota Reference - Information and Specs for all USA Toyota, Lexus and Scion Cars
https://forum.ih8mud.com/paint-body/182831-toyota-green-paint-samples.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/paint-body/198081-color-brown-lets-see-your-brown-fj40s-45s.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/226761-pics-oem-greens-greys-orange.html

That has been my concern with alot of these colors that it all looks great on paper and on a computer screen. What will determine it for me will be how it looks as a sample on metal there in the shop in front of me. As you know I have been noodling this around for maybe too long so I figure I'm going to go with my gut when I see it at the paint shop. Also it seems that while Sherwin Williams has most of the country sewn up the only niche left open is in automotive paint and there it seems the my guy only uses Dupont products. I'm not sure what that will mean as I translate the Toyota paint codes to the guy mixing the Dupont paint.

I went with the 4" lift kit sold by SOR. Specter Off-Road-Land Cruiser Parts - Page 287-Suspension The springs are fine and the lift is just what I wanted. The bounce comes from the fact that I had to break the twin chambered, velocity sensitive shocks out of the picture because they couldn't ship gas filled shocks to me via international air (APO or pouch). I ended up with your most basic stiff as all get out cheap truck shocks. That plus new springs and BOING,BOING, BOING... The plan is to replace these as soon as I can figure a way to get some Bilsteins here.

 

[cruiser_guy]

Hopefully she has been able to spring my stuff from the airport slammer.

Hopefuly there will be something to spring once you get that far!! Things tend to go missing in places like that.

A word of advice on Rust Bullit, it is the most sticky paint you've ever experienced once it's dry. I HIGHLY recommend that if you don't use all the paint at once that you make 100% sure there is NONE that will glue the lid down. If there is you might need dynamite to open the can next time!!

 

[Chamba]

G'day John,

Have a look at my Patches thread in my signature- I have a few snaps of my FJ40 on there. Let me know if you want me to send you a few shots of it directly to your email.

Cheers,

Josh

 

[Volcano cruiser]

Progress

Guys,
First Check out the new name I had started to change it over back in September , was going to wait until paint got done but after a really frustrating hang up in the build decided to just start using the new name. Still it kind of feels like I'm hijacking my own thread
I got so frustrated waiting on the RB that I kind of walked away from posting here but things have been sprung loose finally with the liberal application of U.S. dollars to pay exorbitant "multas" fines to get my RB out of the slammer. I love the fact that they never tell you what you have to do, when you finally get some help and figure it out then they fine you both for not getting it right instantly and then fine you again for taking too long to get it all right on subsequent tries. At the end of the day The Rust Bullet was delivered to my house yesterday.

 

[Volcano cruiser]

Ok I had contracted with the paint and body guys back in September but couldn't let them start until the RB was "liberated". I spoke to the paint shop guys day before yesterday and they have to finish the fuselage of my buddies plane so it will be another week or so before it's my turn. I also cut a deal with the upholstery guy at the airport he will redo the seats while the paint crew has the rig broken down.
Let's do a recap of the stuff that has been done so far:
New suspension:
SOR lift 4" kit
****tastic local shocks ( til I can get Bilsteins)

Front end redone:
Longfield chromoloy birfs and inners
new TRE and drag links

Brakes redone:
Full replacement of front disks (new calipers, rotors, shoes and braided brake lines)
Full replacement of rear drums and shoes

New exhaust system:
Wasn't in the plan but when the old pipe broke just below the manifold I was getting exhaust pumped right into the cabin not to mention the neighbors were getting cranky about the newly liberated throaty sound of the old B motor.

Alot of the pics that will follow are more or less finished product pics as I had to go out of town on business while alot of the work was done so very few progress pics.

 

[Volcano cruiser]

more pics

After the above stuff was done and I was dead in the water in terms of build progress while my RB was being held hostage I decided to test out my newly modded stuff with my 4X4 club. ( club VP is the guy on the right installing the lift kit above. ) I mention this as all of the pics to follow show my "new stuff" with an almost un removable film of the stickiest mud on the planet. Everything you will see is after 5 power washes.
First a couple of the rig doing what she was designed to do, I just need more practice driving her off road.

 

[Volcano cruiser]

Now pics of new leaves, brakes, exhaust etc.

 

[Volcano cruiser]

more
stuff

 

[Volcano cruiser]

Trail damage:
For me in addition to pulling duty as my DD, my main use for this rig when done will be expedition style trips, long haul runs where you go a fair portion off road to get to your trip objective, remote mountainous coffee plantation styled hotel, desert camping spot or driving through all kinds of conditions as you make a run from Central America down South or back up through the U.S. As such I'm setting the vehicle up for that kind of use. So for me going four wheeling is to test and improve my skills as a driver in such conditions as well as test the rig to see if it can stand up and take the pounding and still be reliable.
While waiting on the RB I pounded the rig on mountain trails outside a town called Nejapa. After clearing off the mud here is the toll:
Front drive shaft almost spun off the flange
front and rear drive shafts beginning to separate and need to be lengthened.
HOWEVER, all of the mods to the rig held up very nicely.

 

[Volcano cruiser]

I had been told that these rigs were known for overheating so I just took two trips, one through the mountains and down to the seacoast and one up into the mountains to an area known as Ahuachapan and the towns of Ataco and Apaneca. I have never heard the little B engine work so hard but she was able, with a running start, to take all but the steepest inclines in third gear. No overheating so thus far the tune up and regular engine maintance seems to be holding up well as well.
What these last three shakedowns have shown me is the following:
-I'm gonna need to get an engine with more ponies and a turbo if I'm gonna make long haul and expedition trips a reality.
-Off roading with 33's or bigger tires and Armstrong steering gets old fast so P/S is next after the paint gets done. ( I'm going to let them do the P/S conversion using the entire setup for a current Hilux/Prado which all claim here is a drop in. That setup really drives nicely on the trail)
-panic stops to avoid cows going downhill on mountain roads takes on a whole new meaning when your a-ss end starts to come along beside you so it too can can enjoy the view. Rear disks will be done as the final piece of the build. ( Thanks to Charles " cruiser_guy" visit I now know that I have a full floating axel in the rear so I'll get the stuff together to do the rear disk mod on a FF axel. ) Does anyone know if there is a way to tell a GM FF from a Toyota FF? I didn't see any obvious markings but I probably just not looking in the right place.

 

[cruiser_guy]

John, your axle is a Toyota axle. GM rear axles are centered.

How'd you loose your name (jabxyz)?

 

[Volcano cruiser]

John, your axle is a Toyota axle. GM rear axles are centered.

How'd you loose your name (jabxyz)?

Charles,
Thanks for clearing that up. I'm not sure but I seem to recall that they used the FF axles on the 80 series, is that right? If so would that mean that I now have the option of using an 80 series selectable locker in the rear?
As to the name, I didn't lose it. I just decided that the new name, Volcano cruiser, more aptly described me, as in I own a cruiser and it and I live on a Volcano.

 

[Chamba]

G'day John,

No, you cannot use an 80 series 3rd member on yours- your 3rd member is the same as a semi-floater from a 40 series; it all has to do with how the axle shafts are held in to the spider gears at the centre of your diff. What you can use is a cable locker from a 60 series, or an ARB air locker for a US Spec 40/60 series.

There was a guy a few years ago who was talking about making new axle shafts to allow full floater axles to use 80 series 3rd members, but I don't know what happened with that.

A great benefit to the full floater is that putting disk brakes on is pretty easy. You can use the factory front brakes/hubs from a 40/60 series, and then simply fabricate a bracket to hold the factory caliper. I have not done this myself, but I have talked to a few bokes who have, and they swear that it is very easy.

Your rig is looking very nice, and I like the new name

Cheers,

Josh

 

[Volcano cruiser]

G'day John,

No, you cannot use an 80 series 3rd member on yours- your 3rd member is the same as a semi-floater from a 40 series; it all has to do with how the axle shafts are held in to the spider gears at the centre of your diff. What you can use is a cable locker from a 60 series, or an ARB air locker for a US Spec 40/60 series.

There was a guy a few years ago who was talking about making new axle shafts to allow full floater axles to use 80 series 3rd members, but I don't know what happened with that.

A great benefit to the full floater is that putting disk brakes on is pretty easy. You can use the factory front brakes/hubs from a 40/60 series, and then simply fabricate a bracket to hold the factory caliper. I have not done this myself, but I have talked to a few bokes who have, and they swear that it is very easy.

Your rig is looking very nice, and I like the new name

Cheers,

Josh

Josh,
Thanks for the support. When you are in the middle of a project like this, for the first time sometimes you aren't really sure how it is all turning out in the eyes of others. For me mechanically everything that I have done to the rig has done well and has improved it. The remaining things that I have planned at this stage, p/s and rear discs, should follow suit. The only bit that is plaguing me is electrical gremlins. I am waiting on the delivery of two new Blue Sea fuse blocks and s few other bits. I plan to take a couple of days and just stop driving the rig and repair the harness, circuit by circuit, inspecting every wire and replacing anything that isn't ready to go with me into the 21st century.
As to my newly discovered Toyota rear FF axle, even adding the option of a cable locker from a 60 gives me more options. Given that I really want a selectable locker and ARB is so pricey any other option that gives me control over when the locker engages and that I might be able to pick up cheap, is great news. Ok now time for a "so shoot me I didn't know.." question. I have seen the term 3rd member used alot, exactly what is it, at first I thought it referred to supporting cross members, pieces that supported the chassis at right angles to the frame rails. Clearly not that so can you give me an explanation of the term as though I just arrived here from Mars.
Thanks,
John

 

[cruiser_guy]

I have seen the term 3rd member used alot, exactly what is it, at first I thought it referred to supporting cross members, pieces that supported the chassis at right angles to the frame rails. Clearly not that so can you give me an explanation of the term as though I just arrived here from Mars.
Thanks,
John

John, the term "third member" refers to the differential gear assembly in the front or rear axle.

 

[cruiser_guy]

I have seen the term 3rd member used alot, exactly what is it, at first I thought it referred to supporting cross members, pieces that supported the chassis at right angles to the frame rails. Clearly not that so can you give me an explanation of the term as though I just arrived here from Mars.
Thanks,
John

John, the term "third member" refers to the differential gear assembly in the front or rear axle (that part that you'd be messing with when installing your locker).

 

[Volcano cruiser]

Charles,
Understood. Thanks. What I don't get is how that component got the nickname "third member".

 

[Chamba]

John,

The Aussies call it a 'diff centre,' which may make more sense, but would really confuse anyone outside of the Nanny Country. I don't know why it is called a third member- perhaps the axle tubes are the first member, the axles are the second member, and the differential is the third... I have also heard people- mostly in the South I think- call it a 'pumpkin.' While this is self-explanatory, I am not sure that it refers specifically to the 3rd member or if it is simply the generic name for the bulge in the axle.

Cheers,

Josh

 

[Volcano cruiser]

John,

The Aussies call it a 'diff centre,' which may make more sense, but would really confuse anyone outside of the Nanny Country. I don't know why it is called a third member- perhaps the axle tubes are the first member, the axles are the second member, and the differential is the third... I have also heard people- mostly in the South I think- call it a 'pumpkin.' While this is self-explanatory, I am not sure that it refers specifically to the 3rd member or if it is simply the generic name for the bulge in the axle.

Cheers,

Josh

Josh,
Well pumpkin is definitely an accurate description of form and diff center is accurate as to placement and function so of course the one everyone uses is third member which is neither.
At any rate the electrical gremlins have grown in size and have ground progress to a halt. I worked on the car for 5 hours two days ago chasing wire only to find that the source of my headlights blowing out the tail light fuse issue is that each time a relay blew (moisture invasion in each case) the PO simply re-routed a jumper around it tying that circuit into the next closest one. He in fact daisy chained three circuits together that way. In order to make it all work he " heavied up" the fuses from 15A to 20A all accross the block. Beccause everything was working and I was working on other sections of the rig I didn't notice.

A while ago I got a hold of a manual for a 40 series which showed that everything except one circuit was rated at 15A. During my last trip into the mountains I started blowing the fuse for the tail lights whenever I put on the headlights. So I started to look hard at the fuse block and saw the variance between the rated amps and what was in the fuse block. Well deep into tearing into the harness along the headlight circuit and we found headlights, taillights and horn together with all relays cutout. After buying and installing $22.00 in relays and in line fuses( added precaution) sparks were still flying and the fuse panel kept heating up when we began to power up circuits to test. Now with the engine harness almost fully torn open we found several circuits where wires that shared space in the loom had melted together sending lots of stuff to multiple grounds, all hidden under yards of electrical tape. Not suprising since the fuses are calculated to protect wire of a selected gauge. If you change a variable like changing out a larger capacity fuse for a lesser one you allow more current to go through a wire than that wire is capable of handling. The result , the wire melts, just like it says in the text book. Solution..I got frustrated and left the rig at the shop and there it will stay until the new fuse blocks and replacement wire gets here in the mail so that we can fully rebuild the harness.
John

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Solution..I got frustrated and left the rig at the shop and there it will stay until the new fuse blocks and replacement wire gets here in the mail so that we can fully rebuild the harness.

Excellent solution.

I like to use larger wire if I can too. I just don't see what purpose 22GA serves in trucks. 16 is about the lightest I like to see, for just about anything.

See folks, this is why you don't just put in a bigger fuse or use a gum wrapper. You don't want to be "that PO" do you?!?!

Dan