- Thread starter
- #21
Yeah I have not even tried to get them off yet. May be too much trouble but I was just trying to come up with a way to have it both ways.
Alabama 1994 Revival - Bless it's Heart (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter booradley
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #22
We are getting there. Lift is done. Took wheels to the pedicurist and they are as-new. New Open Country M/Ts.
Next: put cats back on, oil pressure sender, fit White Knuckles, ARB.
Next: put cats back on, oil pressure sender, fit White Knuckles, ARB.
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@Road Apple has done something like this, I'm sure he will chime in.
Rig is looking good , nice work !!
- Thread starter
- #25
Thank you. I forgot to mention a major victory the other day. Got all lockers working very well now. I replaced both switches and had to procure a front harness. CDL and rear were working but front was being stubborn (I'm not sure it had been used in years or ever). After much trial and error with multimeter that front actuator finally moved and all lights came on. Much celebration (ha).
I have the same 94 with lockers, the rear locker vent runs to the driver side rear wheel well and is know to let water/moisture in it's best to reroute it up into the rear quarter panel like the 95-97 to avoid issues. Ask me how I know
- Thread starter
- #27
Good tip I will check it out. I'm trying to have it ready for a trip to Windrock in January. Usually snow, mud, etc.
Road Apple
SILVER Star
I agree with jpoole, especially the rear fenders. In my case, I wanted to retain the fenders on the street and remove them Offroad. I siliconed a block of wood into the fender flare, then screwed rare earth magnets at angles that matched the body. With some trial and error, you can get good contact and very good holding power. I’ve driven 1000 mile trips on and offroad without losing a flare. Leaving the stock positioning pins in place is helpful.
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- Thread starter
- #29
Truck is getting painted by Maaco on 12/11. I started stripping it today. Took flares off, and decided I like it that way. I need to patch the holes.
Probably not going to get welded in time. What are some other options? Fiberglass patch on the back plus bondo? Maybe JB Weld on back plus bondo? Maaco will smooth it out but just need it sturdy and smooth under the new paint.
Edit: spoke too quick. Looks like I’ve got the patchwork done.
I could use some encouragement though that I’m doing the right thing losing the flares (lol). I stressed that decision too much.
I used this with great results.
Very happy going flare less.
- Thread starter
- #31
Is this something I can do myself? I have no skills. Did you put it on from the back? Maaco will smooth it out; I just want it to be sturdy and take the new paint well.
- Thread starter
- #32
Roof rack came right off. I’m losing the outer rails but keeping the center ribs. I’m assuming the tracks are glued down and not easy to remove (need to be taped)?
It's a one banana job, you should be able to do it.
I used a small sharp cold to make fore cut in the hole, more going sideways then down this will give the bondo something to grab and creates a small dimple to fill. the area need to be sanded down and something need to be used to remove any wax or oil. I use denatured alcohol before filling from the outside.
I used this same method to fill the holes in the roof after removing the rack !
You can go to my build thread page 39 post 777 and you can see what I did, personally I would remove the center ribs as well.
I used a cheap drill stop when drilling out the rivnuts as to not poke holes in the head linner
I would also recommend you do your own sanding and I mean the whole car, It's all in the prep work. Maaco's not going to sand there just going to shoot the pant on, believe me !!
If you do this you can get a decent paint job from them.
If you don't have one I would pick up a 5" random orbital sander, keep it flat to the surface and keep it moving. you can also use it to sand the bondo down using the same method, keep it flat and moving.
Did the wheels get a new clearcoat after polish? What shop did the work? I'm in Gadsden....I may want to get mine done at some point. Thanks.
- Thread starter
- #35
Used Alloy Wheel Repair Specialists in Pelham. I asked them for extra clearcoat and they did it. Wheels were wrecked and I am pleased with their work.
- Thread starter
- #36
I have an electric 5” sander. To get the bad clearcoat off and get it ready for Maaco what should I go to? 180? 220?It's a one banana job, you should be able to do it.
I used a small sharp cold to make fore cut in the hole, more going sideways then down this will give the bondo something to grab and creates a small dimple to fill. the area need to be sanded down and something need to be used to remove any wax or oil. I use denatured alcohol before filling from the outside.
I used this same method to fill the holes in the roof after removing the rack !
You can go to my build thread page 39 post 777 and you can see what I did, personally I would remove the center ribs as well.
I used a cheap drill stop when drilling out the rivnuts as to not poke holes in the head linner
I would also recommend you do your own sanding and I mean the whole car, It's all in the prep work. Maaco's not going to sand there just going to shoot the pant on, believe me !!
If you do this you can get a decent paint job from them.
If you don't have one I would pick up a 5" random orbital sander, keep it flat to the surface and keep it moving. you can also use it to sand the bondo down using the same method, keep it flat and moving.
By no means am I a expert !
But I would think 220 would be sufficient, after the primer coat 320-400 could be used but do expect that to happen at Maaco
- Thread starter
- #38
Cool. I think I’m going to try to get it to a uniform 220 before I take it down there and then roll the dice. Thanks.By no means am I a expert !
But I would think 220 would be sufficient, after the primer coat 320-400 could be used but do expect that to happen at Maaco
- Thread starter
- #39
There are three harness plugs I found under my console, which I’ve been told are plugs for seat heaters and maybe one is for a JDM refrigerator option we did not get in USA.
I just want another hot 12v outlet for my GMRS or another cellphone charger. I searched but did not see anything on this. Has anyone attached a 12v outlet to one of these plugs? I am less than one banana on electrical and do not want to burn my truck to the ground. Thanks,
I just want another hot 12v outlet for my GMRS or another cellphone charger. I searched but did not see anything on this. Has anyone attached a 12v outlet to one of these plugs? I am less than one banana on electrical and do not want to burn my truck to the ground. Thanks,
- Thread starter
- #40
Back from Maaco today:
My thoughts:
(1) they did a good job, worth it, I'm pleased
(2) they did an outstanding job fixing the flare holes
(3) there are a few runs and rough spots; there is orange peel. I am going back in a month after some curing and they are going to buff out some spots.
If anyone is contemplating a Maaco job, I recommend:
(1) finding someone you are comfortable with
(2) getting in their face for a while and having a sincere discussion
(3) showing up with a bulleted list of what you want and what you don't want. Hand it to the manager and tape it to the steering wheel. They pretty much complied with my little list of demands.
My thoughts:
(1) they did a good job, worth it, I'm pleased
(2) they did an outstanding job fixing the flare holes
(3) there are a few runs and rough spots; there is orange peel. I am going back in a month after some curing and they are going to buff out some spots.
If anyone is contemplating a Maaco job, I recommend:
(1) finding someone you are comfortable with
(2) getting in their face for a while and having a sincere discussion
(3) showing up with a bulleted list of what you want and what you don't want. Hand it to the manager and tape it to the steering wheel. They pretty much complied with my little list of demands.
