Builds Aimless build: 60 Series

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Joined
Nov 4, 2015
Threads
3
Messages
119
Location
Dallas Oregon
I loved 60 series ever since I first saw them, I find nearly everything about them appealing.

I’ve had a lot of different rigs over the years, I rarely settle on anything for long. I buy, sell and trade at what my friends and family call an, “alarming rate.” My first Toyota was a Trekker, then I bought an ‘82 Pickup (that I still have) and I restored an ‘87 4Runner.

I got a 1991 80 Series about a year ago but I wasn’t quite sold with it... so I traded it for a swapped and built ‘92 4Runner, which I found I didn’t care for either. I resigned myself to never owning a 60 because the prices are getting ridiculous here in Oregon, for a clean rig.

So after selling the 4Runner I was pleasantly surprised to find 60 Series in Washington that looked alright and in my price range.
I called the owner and he claimed it was dent and rust free (a feat all by itself). It was also powered by a 6.2 Chevy diesel backed by sm465 and np205. Basically full 3/4 ton running gear from a 1985 Chevy Pickup.


So, I bought it.

 
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The 6.2 had a blown head gasket when I bought it, seller provided all the necessary gaskets for repair. So once it was home I tore it down to the short block and had the heads checked by a professional shop.
First bad news, passenger head was shot, cracks all the way through to the water jacket. Not a shocking bit of news, it’s a common issue with these heads. So I replaced them with 6.5 heads, a bit stronger.
I built it back up, bleed the injectors, got it running, and began to burp the cooling system.
Second bad news, could not get all the air out of the system. My brother assisted me, he owns a hot rod shop and is a professional mechanic.
Long process short, the block is cracked.

Also not surprising from what I know about these motors, but very disappointing.

So.....
 
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I decided on a complete swap, get something reliable and easy to find parts for. Horsepower is addicting (I’ve had a couple 300 and 400hp cars), so a little pep would also be much appreciated.
I thought about a 4BT, or an R2.8, R2.8 would require a loan on a truck I own free and clear. So that’s out.
4BT costs much less but after driving my Dads 4BT swapped 80 Series I wasn’t impressed with overall power. Granted his has a 4l80e behind it.

I searched good old Craigslist for a solution and found it. In Washington, again, of course.
A 2006 4.8 from a Tahoe, the harness was modified for swapping into a Toyota and it was a complete motor.
So up I went and after 2.5hrs drive both ways, I got it home.

This is up to date, I’m ordering the Advance Adapters kit to adapt the 4.8 to my sm465. Thoughts, opinions, and tech info are greatly appreciated.
 
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Cool truck. Big fan of the 5.3l but I’m biased.

Not sure about the sm465 for regular road and highway use. They're slow shifting and I would miss having a 5th gear/overdrive. If the truck is to be primarily a wheeler then no big deal I guess.

Good luck with it. Keep us posted.


-Ed
 
Thoughts, opinions, and tech info are greatly appreciated.

Rust free is all that caught my eye... good find I say !!!
I been running the 5.3 from 2006 since 2007.. from Ebay..lol....
over 100k miles later with no issues... knock on wood...
I would either change to a Yota 5 speed or GM Auto.... bias towards the Yota TC as well.....
Welcome to the 60's side.....
 
I agree it’s a slow shifting trans, with weird shift points as well. I’ll be very interested to see how it does behind a gas engine. However the same kit for the sm465 is used for the nv4500 so if I get tired of the 4-speed I’ll swap to that.

I’d like to, eventually, do a np205/203 dual set-up. Strong with lots of options is what I’m going for at this point. I do a lot of playing in the rocks, snow wheeling and I love camping, so if it can do all that reasonably well I’ll be pleased.
 
LS SWAP FTW! It is ubiquitous because it just works, parts are cheap and hp? YOU GOT IT!

Have to correct me if I'm wrong, but I seem to remember an LS engine can bolt in place of a big block (diesel) due to the larger bell housing. The flywheel is a tad large to replace a small block.

I would recommend an NV4500 for sure, but i drive mine like a 4 speed most of the time. Your cruising speed@ 70 with no OD would be around 3k if you have 33s.

Have you got a line on disabling VATS? GM wiring is really not bad, pinks go to switched hot, orange to constant hot, and make sure you get ALL your grounds, and she runs! It's beautiful really....
 
I’m not sure about the VATS, until you mentioned it and then I began researching it I had no idea it could be an issue. The engine came with a custom wiring harness so there are some things I definitely need to figure out.

I’ll be running with 37in Treppadors. I have them on my pickup and love them.

I just ordered my Advanced Adaptors kit, I’m interested to see how well this all comes together.
 
If you end up using the factory locked pcm, it's 100 bucks for credits to unlock. Past that it's just hourly "labor" and shipping for vats and other tuning.
 
If it hasn’t been done already you’ll need your PCM flashed. Whoever does this will remove the VATS and make any other modifications needed. Since your planning a non-factory trans behind this engine that will have to be programmed for example.

I used lt1waps.com. This guy does a bunch of them and is cheap. Link: LT1 Swap


-Ed
 
I’m not sure about the VATS, until you mentioned it and then I began researching it I had no idea it could be an issue. The engine came with a custom wiring harness so there are some things I definitely need to figure out.

I’ll be running with 37in Treppadors. I have them on my pickup and love them.

I just ordered my Advanced Adaptors kit, I’m interested to see how well this all comes together.

I must retract my statement regarding rpm. I just now noticed you're on tons. Dunno what those gears are.
 
Cruiser enthuiser, thanks I’ll definitely check out lt1waps.com. Seems like a good way to go.

Crashmonk, yeah I’m not totally sure on the current gears they could be 3.73 or 4.10s, from what I’ve read. Hopefully 4.10s!

The engine didnt come with an ECU (ECM,PCM), are there preferred brands or should I just buy stock? I’m not totally unfamiliar with stand alone ECUs but they are pretty spendy. Would that be easier though?
 
Depends on your definition of easy. Standalone needs figuring out also.

Did your harness have a brand on it? I'm familiar with the factory harnesses which i think are easy. Maybe try and post pics of the harness?

I'm not sure your 5.3 is a 2006, i see a cable throttle body on your intake. For factory pcm, i think you want a 2002 and up for some reason i can't recall.
 
The harness I have was made by a company called Schwanke Motors or something. I looked into the throttle cable on a 2006 and it appears some had cable but most had wire, something to do with non-ABS.

I got my AA kit in the mail the other day, I’ve got a motor mount kit from Ruffstuff coming and some time off work. So I’m starting in today. I really don’t know what to expect with rate of progress on this swap, but I’m hoping for sooner rather than later.
 
Well don't forget the pics! It's always a hassle for me, but i thank myself later.
 
Like Superman, once it’s everyday FJ appearances are removed, it’s true identity is revealed.



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I thought these brackets to hold the radiator were interesting, I’d love to meet the guy who originally swapped this rig.



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Side note, this trucks odo claims it’s got like 30k miles on it. I don’t know if that’s even possible. I assume it’s more likely someone reset or bought a new odo when the engine swap was done.
The rig is pretty mint though....
 

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