2004 LX470. Decided to remove my AHC and interested in installing a stock LC100 suspension. Can I get a 1" lift from the
LC springs and torsion bars?
TIA
David House
LC springs and torsion bars?
TIA
David House
AHC removal to LC Components
- Thread starter housedavid1956
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I'll chime in as others eventually will - why removing the AHC? If you're having issues with it, it's repairable. It used to be highly feared and the usual course of action was to just remove it, but now with Mud resources, it's become pretty easy to diagnose issues and parts are available.
That said, if you're dead set on removing, you can get lift on the front end by cranking the torsion bars to a limit. For the rear you'd either need spring spacers or new taller springs.
That said, if you're dead set on removing, you can get lift on the front end by cranking the torsion bars to a limit. For the rear you'd either need spring spacers or new taller springs.
Former LC owner here, and when I needed another LC (long story needs beer), a pristine LX470 appeared. Every suspension specialist advised me to get rid of the AHC. Was :this close: to putting in a Dobinsons steel + Ironman FCP shocks 2" lift, like my RIP LC.
Then I started reading. A bit more. And found the Mud.
And kept the AHC.
Having owned an LC (with a top shelf suspension setup), the AHC is better in every way I can think of. Off road. Sand. Rock Crawling etc etc etc. And then the extraordinary ride quality when back on the blacktop.
Save your AHC if you can.
If you still decide to go back to a normal suspension, I would recommend torsion bars and springs designed for your 1" lift out of the box. I can n=1 to Dobinsons, however plenty of other good options out there.
Then I started reading. A bit more. And found the Mud.
And kept the AHC.
Having owned an LC (with a top shelf suspension setup), the AHC is better in every way I can think of. Off road. Sand. Rock Crawling etc etc etc. And then the extraordinary ride quality when back on the blacktop.
Save your AHC if you can.
If you still decide to go back to a normal suspension, I would recommend torsion bars and springs designed for your 1" lift out of the box. I can n=1 to Dobinsons, however plenty of other good options out there.
- Thread starter
- #5
I am wanting to make a camping rig out of mine which would include an auxiliary battery which I would install where the AHC pump is located. That would be the only place I would want the aux battery.
It would be some easy off-road use but no heavy mudding etc. so I wouldn’t need a larger lift.
As for the AHC it needs the accumulators and there are two shocks which are slightly leaking which starts to add up.
It would be some easy off-road use but no heavy mudding etc. so I wouldn’t need a larger lift.
As for the AHC it needs the accumulators and there are two shocks which are slightly leaking which starts to add up.
You don't need two shocks. They weep if pressures are too high. Adjust the pressure with torsion bars and you are set. Fun fact: They're not even shocks. They are hydraulic rams that are more robust than any shock.
All four accumulators can be acquired through Impex Japan for about $500 shipped. You can put in different / new rear springs for about $100/ea to get your rear pressures back in spec and set it up to haul whatever you want. Add up what you would spend on your other suspension idea and it will be far more $$$ than just freshening up what you have.
Why does your aux battery NEED to be in that exact spot? If you are OCD like me I get it, but there are a lot of other options documented here.
Not sure if this works with UZJ100Ls, however there's a battery tray kit that fits next to the power steering reservoir. You do need to move the power steering reservoir though. Might be cheaper than a brand new suspension
+1 for save the AHC if possible. Regrettably I am also in the 'I converted from AHC and wish I didn't do that' camp.
But to answer your initial question OP, yes you can get a 1" lift with LC bars in the front. You'll probably want to look in to after market rear springs to lift the ass-end.
But to answer your initial question OP, yes you can get a 1" lift with LC bars in the front. You'll probably want to look in to after market rear springs to lift the ass-end.
- Thread starter
- #10
Worth considering.Not sure if this works with UZJ100Ls, however there's a battery tray kit that fits next to the power steering reservoir. You do need to move the power steering reservoir though. Might be cheaper than a brand new suspension
Thanks
Vote to keep the ahc operational. It's a very simple system if you take a little time to learn and understand.
I'm in the less is more camp when it comes to simplicity of a vehicle. I tend to delete anything I find that I
don't want or will never use, ie; rear heat, rear a/c system, and soon also the abs/elec boosted m/c. But I did
retain the ahc as it has been a very useful system and the on road capability and handling is far superior to a
"conventional" suspension. Even if there is a failure, you're not completely SOL and left stranded.
I'm in the less is more camp when it comes to simplicity of a vehicle. I tend to delete anything I find that I
don't want or will never use, ie; rear heat, rear a/c system, and soon also the abs/elec boosted m/c. But I did
retain the ahc as it has been a very useful system and the on road capability and handling is far superior to a
"conventional" suspension. Even if there is a failure, you're not completely SOL and left stranded.
Not sure if this works with UZJ100Ls, however there's a battery tray kit that fits next to the power steering reservoir. You do need to move the power steering reservoir though. Might be cheaper than a brand new suspension
Yes that works as I have had that for many years.
Now I have a 100Ah lithium battery in the back between the cargo barrier and the fridge.
We use our car for camping, just bacj from a 12,000kms trip from Perth to Brisbane and back, towing a camper trailer.
Still with the factory AHC, not willing to remove it.
I think you're confused with the year 2010. It's 2024. Dual batteries don't go in the engine bay anymore.
You want a LiPo battery. It can go anywhere. Perfectly safe for the cabin. Make a clever box for it (or integrate it into the underside of something like an ADGU SS1 system, wink, wink) in the cargo area and keep it readily accessible and reduce the extreme wear and tear that inevitably comes from the engine bay location.
AHC fix: a full set of globes is $600. You need to adjust pressures. That's free. That will likely stop the leaking. They're not actually leaking, but rather "weeping". Some weeping is normal and expected. A little too much weeping is an indication that you need to adjust pressures. A TON of weeping can be a leak, but that's really rare.
Unless you're spending ~$7k+ on a conventional swap you're going to end up with a significant downgrade in performance.
Save the AHC and adopt the concept of a modern LiPo battery (whether that's an EcoFlow, Goal Zero, Bluetti or a Renogy, RedArc$$$, Battleborn or even LiTime from Amazon). Lead Acid batteries are almost entirely irrelevant now.
I fixed my bouncy AHC by replacing the accumulators and now the ride is heaven.
tcarriza
GOLD Star
Just purchased a 01 470 and did find some fluid leak around the globes. I researched the LC suspension swap but after reading this thread and the weeping/pressure comments I’m goin to try and repair it. Thxs
