Aftermarket UCAs - Slee vs Total Chaos vs Nitro

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I'm curious how you came to that conclusion?

If I remember correctly, the SPC arms add 1* in the neutral "D" position and 3* at the max caster "A" position.​
I see the Nitro UCAs have been updated, on their web site, and now look an awful lot like the Blackhawk UCAs. They list their new arms at +3*. (I have no idea if my 4-5 month old earlier design Nitro UCAs have the same +3*)​
Running +3 fixed arms at 22” hub to fender I can only get right at *2. When I was running SPCs in position C I was getting +3.5.
 
Running +3 fixed arms at 22” hub to fender I can only get right at *2. When I was running SPCs in position C I was getting +3.5.

OEM camber adjustment "eating up" your OEM caster adjustment?

The SPC UCAs do allow both camber/caster at the ball joint, allowing you to somewhat "center" OEM caster/camber adjustments.
 
OEM camber adjustment "eating up" your OEM caster adjustment?

The SPC UCAs do allow both camber/caster at the ball joint, allowing you to somewhat "center" OEM caster/camber adjustments.
Here is my alignment sheet after installing +3 arms. I was able to get right at 2* after trying another shop. But that was the max.

64D5E499-56E7-42F5-B2FC-417AE7CED3D8.webp
 
Here is my alignment sheet after installing +3 arms. I was able to get right at 2* after trying another shop. But that was the max.

View attachment 2093707

Ouch!

That would've made me rather unhappy!

Both of my vehicles are slightly lower in front at ~21.5", but I'm getting ~4*+ on both (Nitro and SPC in "B") and prefer the additional ~1* over Toyota/Lexus specs, on a lifted 100 series.
 
Ouch!

That would've made me rather unhappy!

Both of my vehicles are slightly lower in front at ~21.5", but I'm getting ~4*+ on both (Nitro and SPC in "B") and prefer the additional ~1* over Toyota/Lexus specs, on a lifted 100 series.
Yeah, I was expecting more, but now my eccentrics are set for maximum caster and I’m getting right at +2.
They are set to push the arm out as far as possible on the back of the arm and pulled all of the way in on the front of the arm, besides lowering the front I’m not sure there is a way to get more caster on a fixed arm?

Edit: just realized I got that backwards. I was thinking about the lower arms on my 200. So my 100 is setup reverse of that.
 
Last edited:
Yeah, I was expecting more, but now my eccentrics are set for maximum caster and I’m getting right at +2.
They are set to push the arm out as far as possible on the back of the arm and pulled all of the way in on the front of the arm, besides lowering the front I’m not sure there is a way to get more caster on a fixed arm?

Edit: just realized I got that backwards. I was thinking about the lower arms on my 200. So my 100 is setup reverse of that.

I don't remember it being as simple as "maxing" one side and "minimizing" the other. The eccentrics together adjust both caster and camber. @hoser had a post of the FSM here describing the process:


(I'm my experience, I've found most alignment shops really don't pay much attention to caster)
 
I don't remember it being as simple as "maxing" one side and "minimizing" the other. The eccentrics together adjust both caster and camber. @hoser had a post of the FSM here describing the process:


(I'm my experience, I've found most alignment shops really don't pay much attention to caster)
Yes, I don’t think it’s that simple at all, especially if you are trying to keep camber in spec. I was just thinking that if you throw camber out the window and use the eccentrics to push out the front as far as it will go and pull in the back as far as it will go then that will maximize caster on our trucks. I am no expert though.
All I can truly say is that in my experience using both fixed +3 UCAs and SPC UCAs I could get at least +2 more with the SPCs while maintaining proper camber.
I had zero problems with SPC arms but chose to run fixed arms for other reasons. While I would love to have the +4 I used to run I’m happy enough now running +2. It works well enough in my application. YMMV:)
 
Why do people prefer to run as much caster as possible on lifted rigs?
 
Some cars get very twitching after a lift on the freeway. Sort of like what the a car feels like when it's really windy outside or like how the car wants to change directions a little when you drive over an uneven surface, but your on flat surface, sort of like the car is getting upset. The additional caster makes it feel normal, like stock. Hopefully that made sense. On my old 4Runner, high caster also eliminated my wheel rub when I u-turned (ran slightly oversized tires than stock).
 
Has anyone bought the SPC control arms from www.drivebystyle.com
They have the best price I’ve seen out there but had never heard of them til I did a search for SPC control arms link below
Control Arms

Don’t. They’re junk.

Total Chaos should be at the top of your list
 
Don’t. They’re junk.

Total Chaos should be at the top of your list
Are you saying that the SPC are junk or the place selling them???

Also, question for everyone, with only a 1.5" lift (I believe) and no plan to run anything larger than a 33" tire (currently running 285/75r16) would something like the SPC or Total Chaos with the additional caster/chamber adjustments be necessary or overkill? I don't wheel much and the truck is will not be wheeled hard, more overlandish type stuff with the occasional Cat 2 trail. No rubicon or anything quite that difficult in its future.
Reason for asking is that my ball joints are pretty bad from what it seems. The lift was installed without a diff drop by the PO so I will be investing in that to ensure proper CV angles in hopes that they last. Was looking at the Nitros or going with Jason's (@TRAIL TAILOR ) UCAs instead of just replacing the ball joints, but new ball joints would be a cheap fix for the time being I guess.
 
Are you saying that the SPC are junk or the place selling them???

Also, question for everyone, with only a 1.5" lift (I believe) and no plan to run anything larger than a 33" tire (currently running 285/75r16) would something like the SPC or Total Chaos with the additional caster/chamber adjustments be necessary or overkill? I don't wheel much and the truck is will not be wheeled hard, more overlandish type stuff with the occasional Cat 2 trail. No rubicon or anything quite that difficult in its future.
Reason for asking is that my ball joints are pretty bad from what it seems. The lift was installed without a diff drop by the PO so I will be investing in that to ensure proper CV angles in hopes that they last. Was looking at the Nitros or going with Jason's (@TRAIL TAILOR ) UCAs instead of just replacing the ball joints, but new ball joints would be a cheap fix for the time being I guess.

SPC are junk.

Google SPC UCA catastrophic failure. Multiple reports and multiple iterations of the SPC arms.

Stick with a legit manufacturer.
 
Are you saying that the SPC are junk or the place selling them???

Also, question for everyone, with only a 1.5" lift (I believe) and no plan to run anything larger than a 33" tire (currently running 285/75r16) would something like the SPC or Total Chaos with the additional caster/chamber adjustments be necessary or overkill? I don't wheel much and the truck is will not be wheeled hard, more overlandish type stuff with the occasional Cat 2 trail. No rubicon or anything quite that difficult in its future.
Reason for asking is that my ball joints are pretty bad from what it seems. The lift was installed without a diff drop by the PO so I will be investing in that to ensure proper CV angles in hopes that they last. Was looking at the Nitros or going with Jason's (@TRAIL TAILOR ) UCAs instead of just replacing the ball joints, but new ball joints would be a cheap fix for the time being I guess.
If you don’t need the extra caster correction oem UCAs are the best choice.
 
If you don’t need the extra caster correction oem UCAs are the best choice.

Ok and that is what I was trying to figure out. Since I don't plan to go any higher or bigger then from what I was reading the extra caster/camber was not necessary. So I will just replace the bushings/ball joints in the stock UCAs and call it good. Thanks!
 
And who do you suggest being a legit manufacturer and why is SPC not?

Really? Quick search online shows numerous catastrophic failure on SPC products across all of their UCA Toyota lineup. It’s a safety critical piece of equipment and it’s track record does not instill a lot of confidence.

Too many iterations and a poor track record are enough to turn me and a lot of other folks off from their products.

Total Chaos, Camburg, and Icon have a substantially better track record.
 
Yes, there have been failures however to just label a manufacturer as not legit when they are ISO9001 and IATF 16949 certified is simply not correct. Never checked on any of the other brands what certification they carry. Yes, we sell SPC, however we have also had numerous discussions with them about failures, what they do to inspect, verify and also what product liability insurance they carry. If we were not happy with the answers on these, we would not still be selling their product.

Also do you have any data on the number of failures vs. the number of units sold to make that statement? Yes, in the ideal world there should not be any failures, but I bet I can do some google searches and fine similar failures on all the brands.
 
Yeah. So, Toyota sold Tacoma's that had ball joints fall out while on the highway. You can Google it. They're no longer a legit company.
🔥 Lol. Just teasing.

Back on topic.
The Blackhawk and Trail Tailor UCA's should be a part of this thread discussion
 
Back
Top Bottom