after market temp guage

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Perfect ! That's where I put mine, no issues and I just feel better knowing the actual temperature. I used cyberdyne digital gauges, the had them with green numbers, kinda matches the dash
 
I just finished installing the temp sender in the block near the firewall. The kit I bought had the right bolt with it. At first I thought it was the wrong size but after cleaning the sediment off the threads with brass bottle brush (please say 10 times fast), it went right in.

Question: I used some Permatex thread sealer on the fitting. Can I refill the coolant and start it right up or do I need to let the sealant dry over night?
 
Wonder if the sender is in a coolant passage, or an oil galley.
 
The temp there is usually higher that at the tstat housing since it has travelled through the engine and absorbed the heat by that point, at the tstat housing it has just been cooled by the radiator.
 
The temp there is usually higher that at the tstat housing since it has travelled through the engine and absorbed the heat by that point, at the tstat housing it has just been cooled by the radiator.

Not true. The thermostat is the last stop before the coolant enters back into the radiator.
 
you installed it in the block, i wonder if there is much difference in temp between there and near your T-stat? might have to get another temp gauge and see.

there might be a few degrees difference but it shouldn't exceed the safe range in either location.
 
The temp there is usually higher that at the tstat housing since it has travelled through the engine and absorbed the heat by that point, at the tstat housing it has just been cooled by the radiator.

Yes, this is not true. If you follow the coolant path, it exits the radiator from the BOTTOM hose, goes directly to the water pump, where it is pushed thru the engine coolant passages around the cylinders. These flood up to the head, where it eventually enters the cavity at the front of the intake. This is where the t-stat is, and when this opens the coolant then flows to the radiator vie the upper hose.
 
22R temperature range

So far this is what a google search has produced on this question:

From Customtacos: "Anywhere from 180-195 is optimal"
"Toyota's factory documentation indicates a PreTaco thermostat should start opening at 180 F and should be fully open at 203 F"



(http://www.customtacos.com/forum/showthread.php?t=130071)
 
LoneRanger said:
mine is in a coolant passage. I installed it in the coolant drain port.

What are your temperature readings at the drain port ? Since I was incorrect I might be running a bit warm.
 
pics

here're a couple pics of the install. very simple but fun little project.
2012-04-22 16.41.59.webp
2012-04-22 16.41.06.webp
 
I mounted an Auto Meter electric gauge on my 22RE in the place of the OEM sending unit. I mounted it in a A-pillar gauge pod from this guy:

Truck Pillars

My engine runs around 205 degrees whether the AC is on, cold day, hot day, whatever. I asked a Toyota Master Mechanic he says it's fine. It's nice to have an actual gauge that works. Oh and I added a Auto Meter oil pressure gauge too. I had to get an adapter for that...
 
I mounted an Auto Meter electric gauge on my 22RE in the place of the OEM sending unit. I mounted it in a A-pillar gauge pod from this guy:

Truck Pillars

My engine runs around 205 degrees whether the AC is on, cold day, hot day, whatever. I asked a Toyota Master Mechanic he says it's fine. It's nice to have an actual gauge that works. Oh and I added a Auto Meter oil pressure gauge too. I had to get an adapter for that...

205 in AZ sounds about right.;) I grew up in PHX.
 
I mounted an Auto Meter electric gauge on my 22RE in the place of the OEM sending unit. I mounted it in a A-pillar gauge pod from this guy:

Truck Pillars

My engine runs around 205 degrees whether the AC is on, cold day, hot day, whatever. I asked a Toyota Master Mechanic he says it's fine. It's nice to have an actual gauge that works. Oh and I added a Auto Meter oil pressure gauge too. I had to get an adapter for that...

Did you have to pull the dashboard to route all the cables for that?
 
Did you have to pull the dashboard to route all the cables for that?

Nope, not at all. Just run new wires, disconnect the old stuff at the senders, cut the wires back or just tie them, whatever. I didn't touch the instrument cluster in the slightest.
 
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