Adding a header

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Joined
Aug 10, 2015
Threads
11
Messages
139
Location
Alpine, TX
Wondering if someone can help me to decide if adding a header is worth it. To the best of my knowledge, a free flowing exhaust only increases the HP at higher rpm's Like around 4k.

Also I have heard that a header can actually lower hp and fuel mileage due to lack of back pressure.

Then there is the intake side of things. Does it do any good to have a header without larger injectors, porting the heads, more agressive cam etc...

In other words, can you get a noticeable HP gain on the 22R-E by just bolting on a header?

Reason I ask is because I found a used one super cheap if not free.
 
What brand is the used one? There's a few out there that are good for the re's and some that are just a waste and restrictive.
 
What brand is the used one? There's a few out there that are good for the re's and some that are just a waste and restrictive.
Don't know. Buddy of mine has two of them and they are rusty because they have been outside in a pile for years. Said I could have them if I want. Not sure if they are stamped by mfg. or not.

I'm thinking I'll pass on them since if I ever do install a header it will be SS. or ceramic
 
Shoot if it's free... If you do go with a header remiflex makes a gasket that is worth extra coin.

I'm running a Doug Thorley tri-y. Hard to say what gains I got from it as I put a new rebuilt motor in at same time. Tried Pacesetter but had fitment issues with 2 of there after tech support assistance, sold both for DT. But DT is 7-8 years old and still holding strong.
 
Installing a header and a 2.25" exhaust was the single best upgrade I did to my engine. I'm running a Thorley tri-y. If I did something different I would run the 2.25" to the muffler, then 2" to the tail. I'm thinking it would help scavenging.
 
Installing a header and a 2.25" exhaust was the single best upgrade I did to my engine. I'm running a Thorley tri-y. If I did something different I would run the 2.25" to the muffler, then 2" to the tail. I'm thinking it would help scavenging.
With no intake mods it was nicely noticeable huh? I may have to reconsider.
 
My engine is modified. But the header was not installed with the new engine. It was installed later. It was night and day.
 
I had one of those obnoxious Rancho exhausts behind mine. I was running 33's on the truck with 4.10's when I put it all on. Made it much more livable with the bigger tires. Eventually I put 4.88's in it and that made it almost quicker than a stock truck. 5th gear was once again useful and it pulled long grades in 5th no problem. The memories of how good that truck was is probably what has kept me hanging onto my crusty old 89 for so long. I really want to make it just like that 91 was. Minus the obnoxious exhaust.
 
I'm running the DT, in to a flex pipe, to a flowmaster DBX muffler, to tail. 2.25" pipe off header. I'm happy, if concerned about back pressure add a cat and a more restrictive muffler. The tri-y design is same design as stock manifold which is suppose to help with backpressure. I have no complaints. Yes engine is modified with port work, cam, supra intake, and late model 22re TB and upper plenum. I like the little 22re and it does everything I want it to.
 
Yes engine is modified with port work, cam, supra intake, and late model 22re TB and upper plenum. I like the little 22re and it does everything I want it to.

A well tuned, properly running 22re, is a dandy engine. Ya, it's not the strongest powerhouse out there. But with a few modifications it can be a strong runner that will fit most folks needs. For awhile I hated my engine, but a fresh rebuild, and resolving a few issues like a cracked intake hose, has made me love this engine again. Am I still conspiring for a 3RZ? Oh ya, but I'm no longer in a hurry. If I drop in the 3RZ it will be because I want a more modern engine ... not because I have to. And because I like doing such things.

Like many others my engine is not factory. DT header into 2.25" Flowmaster 50 exhaust. DOA C270 cam. Head port. Balanced rotation. Late model plenum conversion and bored throttle body. Tires are 33" and the 4.56 gearing works for me. Some like 4.88 with this tire, but I tried it once and didn't like the rpm on the highway.

Am I the fastest truck on the road? Nope, that is not why I drive 30 year old junk. If I want to go fast, I will get a Scion FR-S.
 
A well tuned, properly running 22re, is a dandy engine. Ya, it's not the strongest powerhouse out there. But with a few modifications it can be a strong runner that will fit most folks needs. For awhile I hated my engine, but a fresh rebuild, and resolving a few issues like a cracked intake hose, has made me love this engine again. Am I still conspiring for a 3RZ? Oh ya, but I'm no longer in a hurry. If I drop in the 3RZ it will be because I want a more modern engine ... not because I have to. And because I like doing such things.

Like many others my engine is not factory. DT header into 2.25" Flowmaster 50 exhaust. DOA C270 cam. Head port. Balanced rotation. Late model plenum conversion and bored throttle body. Tires are 33" and the 4.56 gearing works for me. Some like 4.88 with this tire, but I tried it once and didn't like the rpm on the highway.

Am I the fastest truck on the road? Nope, that is not why I drive 30 year old junk. If I want to go fast, I will get a Scion FR-S.

I just ordered 35's so my gear/tire combo will be similar to yours (minus weight difference of tires) and like what you're saying.
 
With 4.88's and 33's my speedometer is within 2 mph of my GPS. Tells me it's running in the rpm band that it was intended to.

Like others, EFI compatible mild cam (I'd have to find the card to tell you what it is, if I can), OEM Carb(!), DT Tri-Y into a 2.25" mandrel bends system that I built with a cat and a Walker Dynomax muffler. Not a powerhouse, frequently the last in line with a bunch of Taco's and Early Broncos, but almost always the lowest fuel consumption.
 
Anyone run LCE's header? Looks really high quality... Also, any of you guys have to smog? Just wondering how the headers pass....
 
Also, any of you guys have to smog? Just wondering how the headers pass....
I do. Mine passes now. The Ox sensor fitting was located on the #3 cylinder on my DT. When the engine idled the sensor would go cold, and mess things up.

Solution was to install a three wire heated sensor between the collector and the CAT.
 
Ive got an 88 4r, and I'm running an LCE header, high flow magnaflow cat and muffler, somewhere around 2.5 inches from the header back. It was on it when i got the truck. I'd have to check to see if its got a supra MAF, or a stock 4r MAF. Original angled intake plenum and intake. Motor is stock, timing is advanced a little, now runs on mid grade or premium. It can be a bit loud at 2500-3000 on the highway for long periods of time. It had a K&N filter in it when i got it, and i swapped in a paper element. I lost a tiny bit of power and throttle response, but nothing earth shattering.

I dont have emissions inspections to worry about (our state only does safety only on anything older than obd2)

Ive got a bit of old engine smell. Engine has around 200k on it, could use a rebuild, at least a rebuilt top end. It could be lack of back pressure/scavenging, or just an old engine. It's had that since I bought it in 2011. But it still gets mid 20s on the highway, on 31's, with enough pep going through the gears on flat land to make having a 5 spd fun.

I'll run it til it tanks, then probably just drop in a "new" rebuilt engine....and 1990 intake, and a cam, and injectors, and, and, and.....the slippery slope LOL
 
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