ABS/Brake Dash Light 1999 LC

[BritLC100]

I own a 1999 Land Cruiser with 261k miles on it. Recently the ABS and brake light have been coming up on the dash randomly with the annoying high pitched alarm. The brakes feel completely normal and the ABS light does not through a code for a OBD Scanner or even store a code. I have scanned it multiple times and have not had anything show. The ABS/Brake light come on most commonly when starting the vehicle and most of the time will go a way a minute or two after the vehicle has been started. Occasionally it will come on while driving and refuse to go away. The only solution I found that works 50% of the time if the ABS Light will not go away is turning the vehicle off and restarting it.

Does anyone have any recommendations to start trying to properly diagnose this ABS/Brake dash light? Wheel speed sensors seem to be what I hear most commonly should be the first fix. I am not sure if it not throwing any codes or storing any could be a hint to anything. Also, let me know if there is any way you can disable the audible alarm for the ABS (fuse to pull?).

I just purchased the truck in June so I am still learning a lot about them. Any help is appreciated, thanks!

 

[2001LC]

This happened to me today.
2003 with less than 87k miles.

I pumped the brakes after arriving home with ig off, took maybe 25 or 26 pumps to go to the floor. Put ig on and took maybe 26 - 28 seconds for the buzzer to shut off ... any advice?

Could be the colder weather? my commutes are usually 3 miles so maybe the brake system didn't fully warm up?

Thank you!


Edit: referring to the picture in post #12, I checked mine, very dry, no leakes anywhere .... but fluid always has been on the max line, but now it is lower, might be leaking somewhere else?

Buzzer? The brake alarm should not be on.
To test and know, what brake alarm sound is like. With IG key ON, pump brake pedal rapidly, until alarm sounds.

Fluid level is checked, only after pump pedal 40 times, with IG key OFF.
If level is dropping more than normal for pad wear. You've a leak. Find it.

 

[Tareq]

Buzzer? The brake alarm should not be on.
To test and know, what brake alarm sound is like. With IG key ON, pump brake pedal rapidly, until alarm sounds.

Fluid level is checked, only after pump pedal 40 times, with IG key OFF.
If level is dropping more than normal for pad wear. You've a leak. Find it.

Buzzer? The brake alarm should not be on.
By "buzzer" I mean the ticking noise you hear after putting the ig on, lasted 26-28 sec.

Fluid level is checked, only after pump pedal 40 times, with IG key OFF.
I did that, went for 25 or 26 pumps only, then pedal went to the floor, checked the fluid, it is back at exactly max line.

Pads on 4 corners are new, about 2k miles + full flush, twice, 2 years ago. Would a full flush again help?

 

[2001LC]

Buzzer? The brake alarm should not be on.
By "buzzer" I mean the ticking noise you hear after putting the ig on, lasted 26-28 sec.

Fluid level is checked, only after pump pedal 40 times, with IG key OFF.
I did that, went for 25 or 26 pumps only, then pedal went to the floor, checked the fluid, it is back at exactly max line.

Pads on 4 corners are new, about 2k miles + full flush, twice, 2 years ago. Would a full flush again help?

So what's your issue? Sound like you've good brakes master.

 

[Tareq]

So what your issue? Sound like you've good brakes master.

I hope so, thank you, only 87k miles, but this morning the ABS and handbrake lights went on when I started the car. On my commute, it beeeps, goes away, then comes back after 20 seconds.

Brakes are firm, no problem, if everything seems good, why the lights are on?

 

[2001LC]

I hope so, thank you, only 87k miles, but this morning the ABS and handbrake lights went on when I started the car. On my commute, it beeeps, goes away, then comes back after 20 seconds.

Brakes are firm, no problem, if everything seems good, why the lights are on?

Weak old seals, will do that on cold mornings. I would look harder for a leak. If alarms become more frequent, take to Dealership.

 

[Tareq]

Weak old seals, will do that on cold mornings. I would look harder for a leak. If alarms become more frequent, take to Dealership.

I flushed the brake fluid today, I put the ignition on maybe over 12 times after I keep adding new fluid and pumping the old fluid out ,,,, but ended up draining the battery completely dead at the end, wont start ... should I do this in the future with the car running?

 

[2001LC]

I flushed the brake fluid today, I put the ignition on maybe over 12 times after I keep adding new fluid and pumping the old fluid out ,,,, but ended up draining the battery completely dead at the end, wont start ... should I do this in the future with the car running?

I keep a charger on battery. Although when I don't. My group 27F battery are just a little low and will still start.
The main reason I keep, a charger on battery. Is so that when done with flush. I've 12.5 volts or better, for the 30 to 40 second time to charge accumulator test.

Your 2002 LC OM, likely states; Use a Group 24F battery. Those are a smaller battery. In cold climates, they really not best. Colorado Dealership always recommend 27F as do I. Which you'll find, fits battery tray perfectly. We also make sure, battery post and clamps clean and sung.

Can you keep engine running? Yes! But:
OM warns, DO not let engine prolong idle.
Additionally, you'd have to turn off between each flush of accumulator, from rears bleeder.

 

[Tareq]

I keep a charger on battery. Although when I don't. My group 27F battery are just a little low and will still start.
The main reason I keep, a charger on battery. Is so that when done with flush. I've 12.5 volts or better, for the 30 to 40 second time to charge accumulator test.

Your 2002 LC OM, likely states; Use a Group 24F battery. Those are a smaller battery. In cold climates, they really not best. Colorado Dealership always recommend 27F as do I. Which you'll find, fits battery tray perfectly. We also make sure, battery post and clamps clean and sung.

Can you keep engine running? Yes! But:
OM warns, DO not let engine prolong idle.
Additionally, you'd have to turn off between each flush of accumulator, from rears bleeder.

Mine is Lexus branded 27f, my neighbour's was 24f.
ABS and brake lights still on, flush didnt help ,,, but when I hit the brakes hard to test ABS, 1 front wheel only got locked, car swerved a little, I checked it, the air was lower than the other 3 wheels, will put air and see if that helps maybe the sensor is giving different readings than the other wheels ... thank you!

 

[squidmotion]

Mine is Lexus branded 27f, my neighbour's was 24f.
ABS and brake lights still on, flush didnt help ,,, but when I hit the brakes hard to test ABS, 1 front wheel only got locked, car swerved a little, I checked it, the air was lower than the other 3 wheels, will put air and see if that helps maybe the sensor is giving different readings than the other wheels ... thank you!

In my opinion, if you have lights on, you need to get a code reader that can read brake codes, or find someone that does. It could, or could not, be an ABS sensor.

 

[squidmotion]

I own a 1999 Land Cruiser with 261k miles on it. Recently the ABS and brake light have been coming up on the dash randomly with the annoying high pitched alarm. The brakes feel completely normal and the ABS light does not through a code for a OBD Scanner or even store a code. I have scanned it multiple times and have not had anything show. The ABS/Brake light come on most commonly when starting the vehicle and most of the time will go a way a minute or two after the vehicle has been started. Occasionally it will come on while driving and refuse to go away. The only solution I found that works 50% of the time if the ABS Light will not go away is turning the vehicle off and restarting it.

Does anyone have any recommendations to start trying to properly diagnose this ABS/Brake dash light? Wheel speed sensors seem to be what I hear most commonly should be the first fix. I am not sure if it not throwing any codes or storing any could be a hint to anything. Also, let me know if there is any way you can disable the audible alarm for the ABS (fuse to pull?).

I just purchased the truck in June so I am still learning a lot about them. Any help is appreciated, thanks!

View attachment 3836520

Verdict?

 

[2001LC]

For sure read the codes.
Also make sure no play in wheel bearing.

Report back!

 

[Tareq]

For sure read the codes.
Also make sure no platy in wheel bearing.

Report back!

So the 100 has been parked for a week, this morning the battery was dead again, so I had to jump start it for the 2nd time.
When I started it, SURPRISE, no more hand brake & ABS lights even after a 30 min drive with 3 starts

Not sure what it happened ...

But I took it to a mechanic for a quick look, he mentioned 1 of my inner tie rods has play, he asked if the steering wheel is shaking, I said no ...