A slow walk down a very long road.

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Its been a couple of weeks since I updated this whole shebang. I finally got the primer put down. I decided to roll it all on but in retrospect I should have had someone spray it down. I got as much of the inner frame rails as possible but still had a few spots that I wasnt able to fully reach. I ordered up a couple of cans of Eastwood rust encapsulator to get in the frame rails again and the cross members. I ordered the car kit which came with 2 cans of primer and 1 can of top coat. 1 qt will do a single coat on the frame. I had hoped to do the frame and axles but ran out prior to the axles. I got most of the frame painted with the topcoat but still need to flip it upside down and get the bottom section complete. For now here are a couple of shots of the frame in just primer.

frame.webp


frame2(1).webp
 
So I may have screwed the pooch on this whole thing. Went out this morning to check on the paint. Dry to the touch but had small little pin bubbles almost like the paint was off gassing a little and dried in the process. That part I can live with since this isnt a show quality build and i still want to be able to have fun with this thing. If I was doing a full on resto I would be a little upset. I also was able to scratch some of the coat off, i pulled a couple of pieces of debris off from the foam roller and the paint kinda flaked off with it. I didnt rough up the primer coat which may be the reason behind this. I didnt think about it until this morning. I have a bad feeling that if I hit this thing with a pressure washer all the paint is going to come flaking off. If thats the case I may be taking this back to the powder coater to do the whole thing over again.
frame black.webp
frame black2.webp
 
Keep us all informed, I have the Eastwood stuff as well, but haven't used it yet. I have used the Rust Converter and the Rust Encapsulator on other pieces, and planned to use it and the Chassis Black on the frame. May have to change plans, though. Hope it works out for you!

Skip
 
Wow Rust Bullet, LLC is awesome. So I called them asking about the issues with the off gassing bubbles and that it seemed to peel easily. Well come to find out the reason it is peeling is that I didn't rough it up. Seems like common sense now but I didn't think about it at the time since its a 2 part system. Just kind of assumed they would bond together. Well you have to use at least 150 grit and rough up everything if it has been over 24 hours since the last coat. Also I was using a foam roller which is OK but not preferred. A 3/8" nap roller is the preferred roller to use along with brushes. I also found out that once it has cured it doesn't off gas any harmful chemicals, as long as you wear a dust mask you can sand it down as much as you need to if you have runs or other blemishes in the primer. After she answered all my questions, she asked when I ordered and how much product I used. I gave her all my info and she pulled up my order and then shipped me another quart of topcoat. I wasn't expecting that and surely didn't ask since I screwed up the process but she still offered to send me a free can. It shows how good of a company they are if they are willing to replace their product with new even after you screw it up. Long time Rust Bullet advocate now. Here are some pics of the peeling.
frame screwup.webp
frame screwup 2.webp
 
Finally fixed all my mistakes with a new kit and a little extra thanks to RustBullet. I completely sanded down the frame and pressure washed all the old top coat off. I then used Rust Bullets Metal Prep and sprayed down every inch of the frame to prep the already existing layers of RB. After pressure washing all of it off after 30 mins of soaking and drying I then put another coat of RB on yesterday and the first coat of black top coat lastnight. Got up this morning and laid down another coat. All dried up and turned out much better than the first attempt.
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ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1415496752.067210.webp
 
I also got the rear end dropped off to the shop. In for all new bearings and a new pinion seal. Also had them hot dip the axle housing and third mbr to get any extra garnet from the blasting removed. Should have it back next week and then I can start putting it all back together again. Blew my timeline but at least it is starting to get there.
 
I found it awful hard to get inside the frame rail to completely coat the inside so I ordered a couple of cans of Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. The cans also cam with a 24" hose and nozzle so that you can stick it inside hard to reach places. I taped up all the holes on the outside and emptied the cans inside the rails and cross members. Only downside is the color. Its flat black instead of gloss like the RB top coat. It applied really well and the coverage was excellent, I used just under 2 cans.

Has anyone ever used a rotisserie for body work? I am considering either ordering one or attempting to make one to help with the body work. I have noticed Bambi girl has used one for his build but haven't come across anyone else. Trying to decide if the $1000 juice is worth the squeeze.
 
I haven't done this, but would it be possible to make a rotisserie using two engine stands and modifying them/ connecting them together?

Don
 
So finally got a call from the driveline shop that was rebuilding the 3rd member. They think the corrosion on the gears is to extensive and the spider gears are shot. There is also damage to the pinion seal area so a sleeve is needed as well as new bearings. Grand total is $1495 for bearings gears and labor. $2000 if I add a posi trac to it. Way too damn expensive in my opinion. I know there are decent 3rds around so it looks like I am now on the search for a new to me one.
 
FluByU said:
So finally got a call from the driveline shop that was rebuilding the 3rd member. They think the corrosion on the gears is to extensive and the spider gears are shot. There is also damage to the pinion seal area so a sleeve is needed as well as new bearings. Grand total is $1495 for bearings gears and labor. $2000 if I add a posi trac to it. Way too damn expensive in my opinion. I know there are decent 3rds around so it looks like I am now on the search for a new to me one.
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Put the word out that you need a replacement 3rd, and that's expensive at $1,495, bearing kits are $150, seals are $15, and spider gears are throw away and are laying around everywhere, be plenty of members here would have a good used spare set.
 
Yea thats my thought. They added in a Yukon gear set which was probably close to $6-700 plus everything else. I didnt think bearings seal and labor would be another $700. I told them to shove it and just press the bearings into the housing and races onto the axles then throw in the axle seals and I would deal with the 3rd member. Figured there is bound to be a couple of good condition 3rds laying around the world of Mud.
 
Finally have gotten the frame finished and the suspension back underneath it. After the rear end fiasco have gotten a couple of front 3rds set aside by Landcrusher909 and started prepping the axles to bolt back into the leafs today. Noticed a good side dent on the front pumpkin that I originally thought was a factory bend but after closer look I have realized its from a rock or something else a PO has ran over. Anyone see any issues with me continuing to run this axle or should I just find a disc brake front end?
IMG_0897.webp IMG_0898.webp
 
FluByU said:
I found it awful hard to get inside the frame rail to completely coat the inside so I ordered a couple of cans of Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. The cans also cam with a 24" hose and nozzle so that you can stick it inside hard to reach places. I taped up all the holes on the outside and emptied the cans inside the rails and cross members. Only downside is the color. Its flat black instead of gloss like the RB top coat. It applied really well and the coverage was excellent, I used just under 2 cans.

Has anyone ever used a rotisserie for body work? I am considering either ordering one or attempting to make one to help with the body work. I have noticed Bambi girl has used one for his build but haven't come across anyone else. Trying to decide if the $1000 juice is worth the squeeze.
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Try @Bambi Girl - I'm almost positive he's the guy I recall using a rotisserie and singing it's praises.
 
You wont regret the time making your frame paint right. Nice work.

I found that, if you plan your work thoroughly, yuo can get away without a rotisserie. Would be nice thought... I built a dolly out of 2x6 for the tub and only flipped it over twice.

Good luck! I thought it would take me a year, and it took 3. May the force be with you!
 
Take A Torch And Hammer To The Axle Housing Were The Dent Is just slowly heat it up and pound the dent out of it, it's almost like working a dent out of sheet metal with a hammer and dolly but using heat to move the material just don't get it real glowing hot and your good to go, I have fixed a few were the ring gear ate the cover open and fixed it. The material on the cover is almost 3/16" thick maybe a little more so you won't hurt it.
 
yotafj said:
Take A Torch And Hammer To The Axle Housing Were The Dent Is just slowly heat it up and pound the dent out of it, it's almost like working a dent out of sheet metal with a hammer and dolly but using heat to move the material just don't get it real glowing hot and your good to go, I have fixed a few were the ring gear ate the cover open and fixed it. The material on the cover is almost 3/16" thick maybe a little more so you won't hurt it.
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If its that thick I dont think I am going to worry about it. It was fine before and not hitting the carrier or ring gear so in theory it should be ok. Gonna still look around for a front axle, see what I can find. I already have a rebuild kit so it wouldn't hurt to find a disc instead of converting my drum to 60 discs.
 
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