How about disconnecting the brake peddal, do i have to remove any of the dash for that, the stealership said that is why they charge for 3 hours of labor on this job, there is also a really good 80 eries junk yard in Denver so maybe i'll get lucky and find one close by, other wise i'll be calling NIX99 on Monday, Thanks Brad.
and that means no dash has to come off. I recall the bolts/nuts for the booster are also on the cab side of the firewall, but are easily reached. So 4 nuts on the master side, 4 nuts on the cab side and pull the clevis pin, Move master to the side(carefull not to kink the lines) replace booster(might want to get a new gasket that goes bweteen the booster and master, but its just a dust gasket not a fluid gasket)
If the booster you get came off an 80, leave the rod(goes from the booster to master) alone as its prolly set up correctly still. If not measure the rod on the old booster and new one the same.
No need to have the dealer do this, if you can unbolt 8 12mm nuts "you can doooo iiiiit" (in my best cajun voice)
[quote author=cruiserdan link=board=2;threadid=11494;start=msg105164#msg105164 date=1076858727]
The brake pedal will need to be dis-connected from the clevis that links it to the booster.
[/quote]
- you CAN unbolt and swap the booster with the master's pressure intact
- you DON'T have to mess with the dash
- it only takes 30-45 mins max.
- make sure you thread the new booster to match the spacing on the pedal side with the old booster.
I'm just making a reply to confirm that a 93-97 booster will fit a 91-92 80 series truck as well, only differince was that the plumbing for the vacuum line is different on the newer booster so if you pull a booster hold onto the vacuum line that is attched to the booster so that it will be long enough to reconnect the line, thanks again for all the help, Brad.
