a bargain from ARB -- (1 Viewer)

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Powder coating can get chalky over time (look at your reciever hitch) so the clear coat should help. I had a powder coated Olympic bumper on my old heep that looked like crap after a year in the Texas sun....

Tucker
 
[quote author=erics_bruiser link=board=2;threadid=13342;start=msg123389#msg123389 date=1079642041]
....they said that the clearcoat acts as a protectant to the powdercoat -- especially with things like --

*gasp*

-- stone dings --

:D
[/quote]

I've had mine on for 2 years and two windshields, don't have a single stone ding in the bumper. Maybe they use a different process where a clear-coat is needed??
 
The African Outback racks we sell are powdercoated and the clearcoated. Also the color is not black. The black powdercoating does not stand up to the UV when on top of the truck. That is the reason it would be coated and clear coated. However we only coat the bumpers and sliders. No clear coat.
 
nothing for nothing, but I've never seen anyone's clearcoat hold up like ARB's. I beat the crap out of my last one and it went through 2 new england winters on the beach with no flaking.

At $400 you got a screaming deal....add the other stuff, a Local shop might have hooked you up for less, but hey, like they said, it's all about what works



:beer:
 
pssst.....Eric.............I know a guy in Mississippi that's interested in a repeat deal..he may even throw in a pit or two, and you'd have to drive down here. ;)

Oh yeah..the powdercoating on the brush guard(s) was more than I told you...it was $50, not $25.........they go in next week.
 
[quote author=bkgiii link=board=2;threadid=13342;start=msg123444#msg123444 date=1079648663]
pssst.....Eric.............I know a guy in Mississippi that's interested in a repeat deal..he may even throw in a pit or two, and you'd have to drive down here. ;)

Oh yeah..the powdercoating on the brush guard(s) was more than I told you...it was $50, not $25.........they go in next week.
[/quote]

hahaha, Kit -- you CURSED me -- now my sunroof whistles too!!

your cruiser is in a league of its own -- i never saw someone with "rub gard" on the top lip of their lower hatch before you --

-- maybe beo has it too, but i have yet to meet him --

;)

e
 
Eric,
much love man but I would be going with the rattle can hard hat black, that being said the clear coat will help extend the life of the powder coat as it has uv inhibitors in its casing. as far as protecting against rock chips I dont see it but suppose its possible as the clear will be softer than the powder coat.
Dave
 
I say also go with paint in a can.
Otherwise when you get the inevitable scrape, you won't
- have a broken heart
- have to do more than give it another squirt...
E
 
[quote author=e9999 link=board=2;threadid=13342;start=msg123481#msg123481 date=1079652674]
I say also go with paint in a can.
Otherwise when you get the inevitable scrape, you won't
- have a broken heart
- have to do more than give it another squirt...
E


[/quote]

how do you know it won't peel b/c the PO's paint tho?
 
rattle can it black, use Rustoleum Industial Hard Hat paint, prolly cost ya $20 for 4 cans......I bet it comes out looking great. I used this stuff on my fj40 wheels(grey) and its held up incredibly well, best spray paint I have ever used.

if its cold out, paint it someplace warm.
 
[quote author=Landpimp link=board=2;threadid=13342;start=msg123501#msg123501 date=1079654132]
rattle can it black, use Rustoleum Industial Hard Hat paint, prolly cost ya $20 for 4 cans......I bet it comes out looking great. I used this stuff on my fj40 wheels(grey) and its held up incredibly well, best spray paint I have ever used.

if its cold out, paint it someplace warm.
[/quote]

did you see my question above though?
 
[glow=black,2,2]Yeah , these guys are on to something .... rattlecan it black , and you'll be half way saved up for another ARB ! :slap:[/glow]
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WAIT!!!!!!!!!!


Buy a red 80 :slap:
 
[glow=black,2,2]NO NO !! Strip down the 80's and powder coat them both red .. and then clearcoat them ( -B- would be so proud of you .. ;) ) . Then all you need to do is shop the world for another red ARB ! :p[/glow]
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[quote author=T Y L E R link=board=2;threadid=13342;start=msg123523#msg123523 date=1079655987]
[glow=black,2,2]NO NO !! Strip down the 80's and powder coat them both red .. and then clearcoat them ( -B- would be so proud of you .. ;) ) . Then all you need to do is shop the world for another red ARB ! :p[/glow]
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ohhhh -- this sounds good -- would strip 'em down and bake the sheetmetal only --

-- mmmmmmmmmmmmmm ---

then i wouldn't need magnets or saran wrap --

:D
 
I didn't know I was suppose to read the thread :flipoff2:

but good point, you won't know, but if it still looks good as it sits now(in red) it will prolly be fine.

[quote author=erics_bruiser link=board=2;threadid=13342;start=msg123504#msg123504 date=1079654375]
did you see my question above though?

[/quote]
 
If you take your time with the sand paper you'll be fine with a nice satin finish can.

RJ
 
My ARB had scrapes through the powdercoat before I got it on, 'cause I dragged it a couple feet on cardboard and it wore through. I think he'll have a better product in the end and some adventure with it. The powdercoater my shop works with claims they bake the old coat off free, that sounded odd to me.

Krylon ultra-black would be my rattle can preference, we use it on optical testing equipment we build, very flat.

Save that amber lense, mine are both cracked, you may need it.
 
If I was going to spend that kind of money stripping and coating I would also look into having it galvanized first. Double so after looking at the rust on the Honda. Myself, I would just lightly sand then rattle can it or have a body shop give it a quick spray. Two years down the road you can have it redone if you need to.
 

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