a bargain from ARB --

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Here's another vote for the spray can.

I bought Toyota steel wheels last year. Checked into having them powdercoated, but got lots of "rattle can 'em" suggestions here. Sooo, sanded, primed, sprayed.

On those rare occassions when I wash the truck I see that the wheels look as good now as when I painted them.

Besides, if you're not happy with the result, it's back to plan A and you are out very little for the attempt to save $$$.

.02,
Ed
 
[quote author=firetruck41 link=board=2;threadid=13342;start=msg123362#msg123362 date=1079640840]
you are paying $774 for a used ARB bar and had to drive 500 miles in the snow in your Civic with the hatch open all the way to get it. [/quote]

And it couldn't have happened to a better suited person.

LOL, got my last ARB for $550 with no shipping. :flipoff2:

It's a bullbar, not a trophy. Either rattle can it with $1.97 paint or get it chromed - you know you want the chrome. Ya leave any crap in the guys yard?
 
Eric,

Here's what you do.

You can get bumpers from ARB with colored PC, but I noticed in the pics that part of the bumper is black. You've got to determine if the Burgundy is PC, if not, the Black under it definatly is. ARB wouldn't send it out any other way. Try rubbing some of the burgundy off with sand paper....PC won't come off. So here is what I'd recommend...you know that at least some part of this is PCd. If you use the paint that others have recommended here, you're golden. It's not going to flake, and if you do happen to scrape it on a rock, you can always touch it up. But the steel is still protected.

If you're still set on getting it coated again...take some of this into consideration. I have a good friend that owns a PC shop and gives me his cost on what I bring him. Materials are CHEAP...the thing that is expensive is the oven...turning it on and getting it heated up. His minimum fee is $60...that covers the cost of the oven, sand blasting, and his grunt. That's what I'm paying to re-PC my Kaymar rear with dual swing aways. You need to look around more in my opinion. $100 to clean off the old is WAY to much. As far as the clear coat goes, that's just extra $ for him. The oven's already hot, and the powder is cheap. It does procect it from UV light...but my Kaymar PC is 6 years old...the sun didn't do anything to it...the PO didn't keep the rust off the arms.

Just my opinion and some inside information into the business. Hope it helps. I'd just rattle can it with some good stuff and and mount it on the 94. You know it will look fine. Besides if it doesn't for some bizzare reason...you can always get it PCd later. Invest the $20 to save the $450.

Good luck
 
[quote author=Safado link=board=2;threadid=13342;start=msg123680#msg123680 date=1079669106]You've got to determine if the Burgundy is PC, if not, the Black under it definatly is.[/quote]
Hmm, good point. If you can remove the paint without stripping the powdercoat under it, you'll have a tough, black base. The black powdercoat was probably sanded to prep for the paint. If you paint black over it, the paint may chip or peel, but it'll stay black and protect the steel from rust. You just need a solvent that'll take off paint but not remove powdercoat.
 
[quote author=TOZOVR link=board=2;threadid=13342;start=msg123637#msg123637 date=1079666271]
Guys, we're over thinking coating a bumper.
[/quote]
Most people would say we're overthinking everything we discuss here ;)
 
[quote author=Scott M. link=board=2;threadid=13342;start=msg123784#msg123784 date=1079696243]
Most people would say we're overthinking everything we discuss here ;)
[/quote]

No, but I mean REALLY over thinking LOL!!

Treat this like sliders...you will scrape it often and likely want to touch it up often.
 
[quote author=TOZOVR link=board=2;threadid=13342;start=msg123806#msg123806 date=1079703338]
No, but I mean REALLY over thinking LOL!!

Treat this like sliders...you will scrape it often and likely want to touch it up often.


[/quote]

This is what happens on Toyota boards.

We don't have stepper motors, rust, electrical gremlins, fluid leaks, rotoflexes, or other Rover/Jeep nuisances to talk about!
 
[quote author=shocker link=board=2;threadid=13342;start=msg123817#msg123817 date=1079705686]
This is what happens on Toyota boards.

We don't have stepper motors, rust, electrical gremlins, fluid leaks, rotoflexes, or other Rover/Jeep nuisances to talk about!
[/quote]

Well said!!!!
 
Eric, don't let the dogs drag you down. You made an adventure out of your purchase and you have a good story to tell. You won't remember the cost 10 years from now.

Anyway, since we're on the subject of Bargains. Why is a ARB Bull Bar $600 - $800 for an 80. But over $1,000 for a 100?
 
[quote author=98LXand99LC link=board=2;threadid=13342;start=msg123836#msg123836 date=1079709606]
Anyway, since we're on the subject of Bargains. Why is a ARB Bull Bar $600 - $800 for an 80. But over $1,000 for a 100?
[/quote]

Prolly 'cause they only sell, like, maybe 10 a year?

:flipoff2:
 
you can't get colored ARBs in the US, your choice is black or black :D

[quote author=Safado link=board=2;threadid=13342;start=msg123680#msg123680 date=1079669106]
Eric,

Here's what you do.

You can get bumpers from ARB with colored PC, but I noticed in the pics that part of the bumper is black. You've got to determine if the Burgundy is PC, if not, the Black under it definatly is. ARB wouldn't send it out any other way. Try rubbing some of the burgundy off with sand paper....PC won't come off. So here is what I'd recommend...you know that at least some part of this is PCd. If you use the paint that others have recommended here, you're golden. It's not going to flake, and if you do happen to scrape it on a rock, you can always touch it up. But the steel is still protected.

If you're still set on getting it coated again...take some of this into consideration. I have a good friend that owns a PC shop and gives me his cost on what I bring him. Materials are CHEAP...the thing that is expensive is the oven...turning it on and getting it heated up. His minimum fee is $60...that covers the cost of the oven, sand blasting, and his grunt. That's what I'm paying to re-PC my Kaymar rear with dual swing aways. You need to look around more in my opinion. $100 to clean off the old is WAY to much. As far as the clear coat goes, that's just extra $ for him. The oven's already hot, and the powder is cheap. It does procect it from UV light...but my Kaymar PC is 6 years old...the sun didn't do anything to it...the PO didn't keep the rust off the arms.

Just my opinion and some inside information into the business. Hope it helps. I'd just rattle can it with some good stuff and and mount it on the 94. You know it will look fine. Besides if it doesn't for some bizzare reason...you can always get it PCd later. Invest the $20 to save the $450.

Good luck
[/quote]
 
yulp rattle can it black...and then get truck be liner stand about 3 feet back and spray it down a few times..gives the look of a powder coat and held up for 2 years now with out any chips from on the road.. i did run into some stuff on the trail that chipped ( little trees & rocks) it but i touched it up and you cant even tell.. no doubt my gaurd is fugly but it did work and im in the market for a new arb right now :)


p.s. sprayed my wheels with rattle can and they look great as well...good luck
-al
 
Ok Eric seriously here,
just went out and talked to my painter and he suggested the following. will vary by brand name but it is an aerosol based piant stripper made for plastic bumpers. should take the piant right off and not bother the PC at all. you should be able to find it at any auto jobber who handles paint at all. once you get the red off get the rustoleum hard hat and call it a day.
Dave
 
[quote author=Phaedrus link=board=2;threadid=13342;start=msg123869#msg123869 date=1079715523]
Ok Eric seriously here,
just went out and talked to my painter and he suggested the following. will vary by brand name but it is an aerosol based piant stripper made for plastic bumpers. should take the piant right off and not bother the PC at all. you should be able to find it at any auto jobber who handles paint at all. once you get the red off get the rustoleum hard hat and call it a day.
Dave
[/quote]

this is decent dave -- I may just go this route -- now to find where my bumper is along the path of the powder shop -- ;)

e
 
[quote author=Phaedrus link=board=2;threadid=13342;start=msg123892#msg123892 date=1079717693]
you lose it already????
Dave
[/quote]

yeah -- i might let them do it -- i just don't have time for it now -- i have 12 dogs getting spayed/neutered today, then I have to place them this weekend, driving all over hell's acre in NY, MA, RI and NJ -- and I only have a week till my new job starts -- sad thing is, i sort of like this not-working thing --

e
 
[quote author=98LXand99LC link=board=2;threadid=13342;start=msg123836#msg123836 date=1079709606]
Eric, don't let the dogs drag you down. You made an adventure out of your purchase and you have a good story to tell. You won't remember the cost 10 years from now.

Anyway, since we're on the subject of Bargains. Why is a ARB Bull Bar $600 - $800 for an 80. But over $1,000 for a 100?
[/quote]

Well if you get the 2003+ bar it should be less than an 80 series bar...the 100 series up to 2002 bar should have a street price of about $805 before shipping....not sure what the actual difference is though, I can call and ask.
 
Eric,

I'm late to this thread but my first vote would be to leave it red. (Or, as the Texans say... Raaaay-uuud) My 2nd vote would be to do the whole powder coat and clear coat deal.

I'm tiring of teasing you about the seat covers and we need new material.

:D

-B-
 
[quote author=shocker link=board=2;threadid=13342;start=msg123844#msg123844 date=1079710372]
Prolly 'cause they only sell, like, maybe 10 a year?

:flipoff2:
[/quote]

Not really, can't even get them. Also the 100 series bar is much more complicated in bracketry and mounting than the 80. ALso trim pieces in rubber & lights etc. Not comparing apples to apples.
 
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