A 200 is meant to have 37’s (2 Viewers)

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Agree it's a race truck. But they're running in classes that require the use of factory suspension pickup points, components, and geometry, save for the shocks. Yeah, that alone is a big difference, but it's still pretty amazing how much travel their harvesting out of the stock suspension arms.

From what @MTKID is saying, they must be harvesting a ton of up travel to require that kind of body lift and fender chop.

If my car ever becomes relegated to a toy, and doesn't have to do hauling duty anymore, Monica wouldn't be a bad template to follow.


I don't any more .. but I used to run mdr and score. The Bronco's just killed it at King of Hammers in the Ulta4 stock.

Atwalz vehicle is who I was thinking about, it's built really nice ! MTKid is also nice, I haven't seen that one before.
 
I don't any more .. but I used to run mdr and score. The Bronco's just killed it at King of Hammers in the Ulta4 stock.

Atwalz vehicle is who I was thinking about, it's built really nice ! MTKid is also nice, I haven't seen that one before.

Bronco is killing it everywhere!!

The ones running KoH are far from stock even if the 4600 class try's to sell it as a stock class? I'm confused because they've got custom portal axle hubs, hydro steering, HD suspension arms/axles?? Whereas we know Monica had to retain a lot of real deal stock suspension components.
 
So I went digging as I couldn't understand what was "stock" about the 4600 class given the amount of suspension changes they made.

4600: Stock Class This class has been racing in ULTRA4 since 2012. It is one of the 3 classes that races on KOH week during the 4WP Every Man Challenge. Currently, these cars do not have to qualify to race in the EMC race during KOH Week. At regional races, this class usually races with either the 4500 or 4800 cars.

Class Characteristics:

Stock OEM Frame
Factory Engine
Factory Transmission
35” DOT approved tires
Single 2.5 inch diameter shocks per corner
Mechanical Steering
 
The "new rules" are about mount points. You can run after market parts. the rules are here:

They say "The spirit of the stock class is to allow OEM and aftermarket vendors the opportunity to showcase their products while providing a venue for teams to compete in a true drivers’ class in vehicles that closely relate to street driven versions of the same."

Much of it is also about how much $$$ is backing the racer.

There are some wow video's of the unlimited.

FYI West of there are some cool offroad trails running up rattle snake canyon.
 
Hey bruv, can you share those wheels? Theyre nice looking!

They look like Braid Winrace S wheels

 
I look at Braid's site monthly, so tempted to order a set for the Cruiser once I am ready to lift it.
 
They look like Braid Winrace S wheels


Nice thank you!

I had never seen these. They look better than evo corse and custom offset to order? No 18s though? Look great; stout, masculine, minimal branding.
 
I look at Braid's site monthly, so tempted to order a set for the Cruiser once I am ready to lift it.

What set you thinking of and what was the quote?
 
What set you thinking of and what was the quote?

Braid Winrace. You can custom order size, width, offset, backspace, etc. on most of their wheels. For an 18x9 non-beadlock they were over $1100ea. Definitely not something to take lightly and even more than Innov8 wheels.
 
Braid Winrace. You can custom order size, width, offset, backspace, etc. on most of their wheels. For an 18x9 non-beadlock they were over $1100ea. Definitely not something to take lightly and even more than Innov8 wheels.

$1100 for cast non-beadlock?
 
Just here to say after going to 35's, i reallllly want 37's. Anyone ever try and make the wheel wells bigger as opposed to limiting travel with bump stops?
 
Just here to say after going to 35's, i reallllly want 37's. Anyone ever try and make the wheel wells bigger as opposed to limiting travel with bump stops?
You can enlarge the openings but you’ll need either longer bump stops to keep you from smashing through the top of your fender on full compression or some serious control arm lowering/relocation
 
The solution may be a number of combined strategies including
1) Body Lift
2) Cut fender
3) Bracket drop

I believe @MTKID is using strategies 1 and 2. @Atwalz is primarily using 3?
 
I guess I'm thinking more aggressive and straight up making the wheel wells larger. ie, cutting the old ones out, relocating what can be relocated and weld in new ones.

But yes, those do seem to be the tried and true methods. Everything no matter what has downsides, was just trying to think outside the box. I have about 2 inches before I dont fit in my garage so body lift is out.

As this series gets older and older I think we will start to see more extreme modifications, and I am here for it.
 
I guess I'm thinking more aggressive and straight up making the wheel wells larger. ie, cutting the old ones out, relocating what can be relocated and weld in new ones.

But yes, those do seem to be the tried and true methods. Everything no matter what has downsides, was just trying to think outside the box. I have about 2 inches before I dont fit in my garage so body lift is out.

As this series gets older and older I think we will start to see more extreme modifications, and I am here for it.

Not sure if you've come across the Stellarbuilt 200. I think that's been a primary strategy of theirs?

 
Just here to say after going to 35's, i reallllly want 37's. Anyone ever try and make the wheel wells bigger as opposed to limiting travel with bump stops?

We need to just start a handmedown chain.

33s pass to oem.
34s pass to 33s.
35s pass down to 34s.
By the time you get to 37s you roll your fenders trim your bits and you can take a break.

😂😂😂😂

What is this place that im in? Its a looney bin money pit.
 
I guess I'm thinking more aggressive and straight up making the wheel wells larger. ie, cutting the old ones out, relocating what can be relocated and weld in new ones.

But yes, those do seem to be the tried and true methods. Everything no matter what has downsides, was just trying to think outside the box. I have about 2 inches before I dont fit in my garage so body lift is out.

As this series gets older and older I think we will start to see more extreme modifications, and I am here for it.
Uptravel is an issue though. There was someone in the forum in the Middle East who had I think total chaos UCAs and I think the UCA actually went up through the fender on a jump. Maybe with Al the plastic lining removed they’d be ok but I’m not entirely sure up front

In the rear you’ll almost certainly hit. There is also the seat belt bolt you need to cut but that’s easy
 
The solution may be a number of combined strategies including
1) Body Lift
2) Cut fender
3) Bracket drop

I believe @MTKID is using strategies 1 and 2. @Atwalz is primarily using 3?
BDS tundra drop bracket kit is designed for 35s no cutting. 37s require cutting/rolling fenders and BMC if you want to cycle the suspension to the full extent.
 

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