'99 LC: Unable to Get New Key Programmed by Anyone

[Neuner]

Don't know what to do about a spare -

When we purchased a '99 LC for my wife, it came with only one aftermarket key. I've been scared for if she ever loses it or it gets ruined.

To get a spare;
- We've tried taking it to a locksmith who could not get it programmed through software nor the manual / door lock method.
- I tried to do it myself, bought a connector, and got the software, but could never get it to connect correctly.
- Took it to the dealer and they can't program it either.

After she took it to the dealer, my wife told me what they said as best as she understood so.... they are saying that without the original key, it is harder for them to code. Three of their technicians tried to code it but couldn't get it to work. Per what she heard them say, "Malfunction in wire in car" but doesn't know what that means. We could pay for them to try and diagnosis it further but they said that even if they found the problem that all of the associated parts are no longer available.

They were able to at least produce a key that would start it but the lock/unlock functions don't work.

We'll just start manually locking and unlocking it so we don't accidently demobilize it.

Anyone know what could be wrong and causing it to be unprogrammable?

 

[Super77]

I have a 99 like you do and I can tell you 100% that programming is DIY on the early LCs, no connector or software required. Instructions are in a couple of threads if you search. I followed them successfully and used a $25 (for 2) blank from Amazon to clone a master.

What you say you don’t have is a master. However, if the key you do have was made from a master, then it’s a duplicate of that master, just not the original.

However, if the key you have was made from a valet, then I believe you cannot turn it into a master by DIY. Is this your situation?

The original valet key did not open the glove box or rear hatch, so that’s one quick way to test.

There is at least one thread here on DIY reprogramming the ECU from a ‘zero key’ situation. Cheaper than the dealership, but not for the faint of heart since it involves de-soldering a PCB.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

I would find a locksmith that's familiar with Toyota programming, sounds like you don't have a master and are unable to program another. A locksmith that understands Toyota programming will be able to flash the ECM and program in new master keys. When Toyota stopped doing the ECM replacement for all lost keys they put out a list of qualified locksmiths, but that was a long time ago, since then many more have been able to get the software that can do it.

 

[Neuner]

I have a 99 like you do and I can tell you 100% that programming is DIY on the early LCs, no connector or software required. Instructions are in a couple of threads if you search. I followed them successfully and used a $25 (for 2) blank from Amazon to clone a master.

The original valet key did not open the glove box or rear hatch, so that’s one quick way to test.

I'll have to test the key. I think we may have used it on the glove box some time ago but I don't fully remember.

My wife read your response with me, and I must have misunderstood her. She said that the dealership technicians did try and program the key using the DIY method with the door locks, key switching, etc. 3 techs tried and couldn't get it to work. She said the locksmith had also tried this method several times as well but it wouldn't work.

I've done a search on the DIY method on here and I've only come up with arguments about which of the 3 methods work. Guys made it confusing because they posted different methods for different model years. Can you post what worked for you or the link to the correct method?

 

[excessive]

what software are you referring to? Techstream ?

 

[Neuner]

I would find a locksmith that's familiar with Toyota programming, sounds like you don't have a master and are unable to program another. A locksmith that understands Toyota programming will be able to flash the ECM and program in new master keys.

I think there's only one in town and we've gotten into arguments with them after they royally messed up a steering column re-build for my CJ7, so that's out. When I had talked to them about a duplicate key for the '99 LC, they had described the flashing of the ECM programming but after the debacle, I had serious doubts.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

I would verify if either of the keys you have are masters, that will dictate what you can do next.

 

[Super77]

Can you post what worked for you or the link to the correct method?

I believe it was in this thread 100 series master key thread - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/100-series-master-key-thread.1169560/

It was the the method where you turn the key in the ignition, use the gas pedal and door locks like 5x, do the hokey-pokey and turn yourself around, etc. . It actually takes a bit of coordination and took me 2 tries before I nailed it.

Remember there are 3 steps to getting a key functional: 1) program the car’s immobilizer to recognize the new key. This allows you to start the car. 2) program the keyless entry, which is a separate system. 3) cut the physical key.

It’s been a minute, but as I recall I bought my blanks and did the RFID first to ensure the car would recognize the new key, then I had it cut, and then I did the keyless entry since that requires turning the key in the ignition. I spent about $25 total for 2 new functioning keys, a few months ago.

 

[Neuner]

We already have a cut key that the vehicle recognizes and starts it. The only thing others can't get programmed is the keyless entry.

 

[Trapper50cal]

That’s a separate Hokey Pokey sequence. There YT vids on it. Unless I’m not completely understanding.

 

[Neuner]

I believe it was in this thread 100 series master key thread - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/100-series-master-key-thread.1169560/

From that thread, I followed the posted video and it worked, 1st try. Wish I had seen and known to do that some time ago but so happy to have another working key for her.

We're wondering what sequence the locksmiths and dealer techs were following that they couldn't get it to work. How do they not know?

 

[2001LC]

Door lock transmitter, is in the FOB. It is, separate from immobilizer chip. FOB must be correct for model & year. We've two or three different frequency. IIRC they're Bluetooth device.

I've also had issue where correct FOB, would not registering. Which in a case of an 07LX,. Was a blown dome (courtesy light) fuse. Receive for door locks, was powered by same circuit.

Battery in FOB, must also be good. We'll see a red light in FOB, when a button pressed

 

[2001LC]

99LX

03-05LX & 03LC

I've also a mud pic says 05LX

06-07LC&LX

 

[Super77]

From that thread, I followed the posted video and it worked, 1st try. Wish I had seen and known to do that some time ago but so happy to have another working key for her.

We're wondering what sequence the locksmiths and dealer techs were following that they couldn't get it to work. How do they not know?

That’s why you have ‘Mud .

Not sure if you’re in the US, but I discovered a Home Depot hack: when you bring you own key blank to their bench top key cutting machine (not the self-serve kiosk) it’s free because the bar codes are on their blanks. They don’t have a SKU for just cutting alone, so no way to charge you.