'97 - Thoughts on rust?

[COYS]

East Coast, West Coast, Midwest, Southwest, Right Wing, Left Wing, chicken wings... so long as you live in the USA, find a little to no rust 80. And even with a "no rust" 80, unless you examine underneath the front and rear glass (which no one does because impractical), you're already gambling. I was at a glass shop where another 80 was getting their windshield replaced. Owner thought he had bought a "no rust" 80 only to find a chewed up A-pillar both sides and up top along roof. I felt so bad for him.

I personally bought a "no rust" 80, but recently spent thousands of dollars to have a top-shelf body shop get rid of rear spoiler hatch rust 4ever.

You're clearly an enthusiast, been patient in your search --> you deserve a fine example. Mods will never go NLA. Replacing chassis components, body parts is a non-starter because Toyota stopped making these eons ago and every day that passes there are less of them to go around on planet Earth.

Don't settle, man - keep on!

 

[NeverFinis]

The feels when everyone is saying how bad that frame is when your frame looks almost the same...

 

[BILT4ME]

The feels when everyone is saying how bad that frame is when your frame looks almost the same...

That's exactly how I'm evaluating this....

 

[76lcmike]

The feels when everyone is saying how bad that frame is when your frame looks almost the same...

it's ok. rust is always there for you.
and as for you southern boys

 

[Heckraiser]

That rig looks like it lived in the northeast or midwest for a good portion of it's life. Does not look like a VA native. I've owned worse, but I wouldn't voluntarily go there again.

 

[MTrun]

Other issues I see:
Rear driveshaft is installed backwards. Slip yoke is supposed to be at the TC.
One catalytic converter is missing. Was cut out and had a cheap Bosal muffler installed.
Suspension bushings need replaced.

I think $12K is too high, by a lot. I don't think this truck was regularly maintained, just "fixed" when absolutely necessary.

Really insightful Bilt4me.

 

[leonard_nemoy]

I am no expert on rusty 80's but I have seen worse ones on here for sure. You said that those pictures are the worse, is there any rust on the body? Bubbled paint?

I honestly don't think it is that bad. Everyone on here got their clean rust free 3x locked 80 for less than $5,000.00...... but in all honesty they are going way up in value lately.

It really depends on how you plan on using an 80. If you want a garage queen show rig than pass. If you want a turn key rig to go use and beat up offroad and the truck is built the way you want, has a good history of mechanical maintenance, ie records and receipts, than I would say go for it. Especially if the body isn't rusted.

You could spend another year searching for that super clean rig, buy it, spend thousands building it, and total it a month later.

You only live once, and your card might get pulled next week so again I say go for it. If you don't buy it someone else will. Offer the guy $9,000.00 in the form of a fat Bengy stack and wheel the piss out of her.

Plus, a rusty cruiser is still a cruiser. And they all deserve some love. Think of it as a rescue dog.

 

[Pascoscout]

I don't think that area is that bad, particularly if it's the worst on the truck. My other truck is an International Scout though so rust doesn't worry me.

I still would not pay $12k for it. Aftermarket mods don't increase the value of the truck that much, especially if they are owner installed or by a questionable shop. Given the backwards driveshaft I'd be concerned about the quality of the rest of the work. See if they will come down on price and it's probably worth buying.

 

[vsatking]

It does not look that bad to a WI mudder. I was go to town on rust abatement to slow it up. The LC will never be big money because of the rust. I think 9-10k is more ballpark.

 

[Wrencher93]

Grandlooser - still talking price. This one is in the 12-14K range. 200K miles. It has the upgrades I wanted: lifted, new tires, arb bumper / winch, body is good, interior is good and a lot of recent work so that the mechanical at first glance seems to be in good order. But the underbody...

I bought my 97 for a similar price with similar upgrades with far less rust. And now, after few years of ownership, if I could go back in time I would have fought hard to pay less than I did because even with a mostly clean chasis there is still work that needs doing and repairs that will not be cheap. Knowing what I know now I'd pass on that and find something cleaner. Doesn’t have to be show quality but rust is the one thing that you just can't undo.

 

[MTrun]

Again, thanks for all the knowledge! It was a rough decision but have passed for now. If I still get an opportunity to get closeups of the locations Jonheld suggested, I will post. The $ swing on these trucks is pretty wild when you account for major maintenance items and desired upgrades. I was able to get recent maintenance info, there was a lot of recent work, but some indicators still concerned me like the lack of details on the last time the timing belt was touched despite a major overhaul.

 

[ppc]

I was able to get maintenance info, there was a lot of recent work, but some indicators still concerned me like no info on the last time the timing belt was touched.

No info on the timing belt because there is no timing belt on the 1FZ-FE motor.

 

[MTrun]

No info on the timing belt because there is no timing belt on the 1FZ-FE motor.

Well crap.

 

[Grandlooser]

In other words it was kept up on very nicely on all of our rigs.