97' FZJ80 heated seat install with Toyota horizontal low/high switches
- Thread starter jwilliams
- Start date
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- 1997 heated seats
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Thanks for that. Not interested in the used ones like congo bought. I am looking for the part numbers for the vertical switches. I want to put them in the coin holder locations.
Very cool revisit of this topic. I too had to research all the old threads when I did it a couple years ago. I got my vertical switches from Dave Stedman at Japan4x4.com and love the mod! Just have to figure out how to add heated seats to my DD Corolla now...
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@4G63 POWER - I checked with CruiserParts.net earlier in the week and they had the vertical switches you're looking for in stock. Not sure if they are new, but it's worth a call. Left side was $79.99.
Screen shot follows...
I saw this last night and looked in my 97 LX today. I don't see the plugs there.
@jwilliams
Did you not need to put a diode after pin 1 of the OEM switch?
Because of the way the OEM heater pad system was designed, when the OEM switch is set to Low, you get 12 VDC at pin 1 (the "low" connection) and 0 VDC at pin 5 (the "high" connection); but when the OEM switch is set to High, you get 12 VDC at pin 5 and GROUND at pin 1. Adding the diode is a way to keep pin 1 (post diode) floating at around 0 VDC rather than going to ground when the switch is set to High.
My heating pad system, which I purchased from Shane years ago, has a controller module that requires the insertion of the diode for proper operation. Sounds like your set up does not require it.
Did you not need to put a diode after pin 1 of the OEM switch?
Because of the way the OEM heater pad system was designed, when the OEM switch is set to Low, you get 12 VDC at pin 1 (the "low" connection) and 0 VDC at pin 5 (the "high" connection); but when the OEM switch is set to High, you get 12 VDC at pin 5 and GROUND at pin 1. Adding the diode is a way to keep pin 1 (post diode) floating at around 0 VDC rather than going to ground when the switch is set to High.
My heating pad system, which I purchased from Shane years ago, has a controller module that requires the insertion of the diode for proper operation. Sounds like your set up does not require it.
- Thread starter
- #47
I did not need to install a diode because the only thing I used were the heating elements, not a temperature control module. My kit did not come with that.
I just need the toyota part numbers for the vertical switches. I can buy them from toyota jp.
LH -- 84751-60020
RH -- Unsure; Sorry; Part Number May Have Changed; CruiserParts.net may be able to help you find the number (helpdesk@cruiserparts.net)
PLEASE CHECK MY WORK:
I'm clearly not an auto electrician - working off my 10th grade shop knowledge, so I'd appreciate a quick check of my wiring to make sure I've done this correctly (for @jwilliams' specific install). Please check my work on wiring the aftermarket carbon fiber heating elements to the seat receptacle per @jwilliams install.
I'm very worried about doing something wrong and creating a dangerous wiring situation.
The HI/LO/GND confused me a bit on this project, as this install is only using the heating elements (and not the associated relays) that come with the aftermarket kit.
It is my understanding that from the elements, we need to end up with three leads that will connect to the fixed seat receptacle/factory loom per @jwilliams description:
1) +HI
2) +LO
3) GND
So - this is what I did:
1) Joined the two positive (red) leads out of the two heating elements (per seat) into a single lead, and then split that into two leads, one for HI and one for LO (to be attached to the appropriate pins and then connected to the appropriate color coded factory wiring in the factory loom).
2) Joined the two negative (black) leads out of the two heating elements (per seat) into a single GND lead (to be tapped into the existing power seat GND in the factory loom per @jwilliams instructions in this thread).
3) It is my understanding that the factory switches and electrics will then regulate power to the heating elements - i.e. LO will send less current through the factory wiring to the appropriate pin and on to both aftermarket heating elements while HI will send more current? Am I correct here?
PLEASE SHOOT ME DOWN AND CORRECT ME IF I'M MISSING SOMETHING HERE!
I've attached photos of my wiring. I'm not installing anything until I get some feedback.
(btw, I'm clear on fitting the switches; my confusion was just the wiring from the heating elements to the seat receptacle)
Thanks much.
I'm clearly not an auto electrician - working off my 10th grade shop knowledge, so I'd appreciate a quick check of my wiring to make sure I've done this correctly (for @jwilliams' specific install). Please check my work on wiring the aftermarket carbon fiber heating elements to the seat receptacle per @jwilliams install.
I'm very worried about doing something wrong and creating a dangerous wiring situation.
The HI/LO/GND confused me a bit on this project, as this install is only using the heating elements (and not the associated relays) that come with the aftermarket kit.
It is my understanding that from the elements, we need to end up with three leads that will connect to the fixed seat receptacle/factory loom per @jwilliams description:
1) +HI
2) +LO
3) GND
So - this is what I did:
1) Joined the two positive (red) leads out of the two heating elements (per seat) into a single lead, and then split that into two leads, one for HI and one for LO (to be attached to the appropriate pins and then connected to the appropriate color coded factory wiring in the factory loom).
2) Joined the two negative (black) leads out of the two heating elements (per seat) into a single GND lead (to be tapped into the existing power seat GND in the factory loom per @jwilliams instructions in this thread).
3) It is my understanding that the factory switches and electrics will then regulate power to the heating elements - i.e. LO will send less current through the factory wiring to the appropriate pin and on to both aftermarket heating elements while HI will send more current? Am I correct here?
PLEASE SHOOT ME DOWN AND CORRECT ME IF I'M MISSING SOMETHING HERE!
I've attached photos of my wiring. I'm not installing anything until I get some feedback.
(btw, I'm clear on fitting the switches; my confusion was just the wiring from the heating elements to the seat receptacle)
Thanks much.
Thanks, I guessed the second part # which is correct. My cost is $40 each from Japan. Here are the vertical switch numbers.
Toyota 8475160020
Toyota 8475160010
Good deal. My horizontal ones were just $10 more from Japan. Looks like we both got good pricing. Hope your project goes well.
Hats off to @jwilliams for compiling all of this!
How do we get them from Japan exactly? eBay seller?
I'm also potentially interested in the vertical ones. Although I may also put a ruddy console in at some point too.
Toyota Japan. If you need a set lmk.
How do we get them from Japan exactly? eBay seller?
I'm also potentially interested in the vertical ones. Although I may also put a ruddy console in at some point too.
I got them from JP-Carparts - the website is a little convoluted, but works. You first submit an inquiry, wait for them to confirm the part numbers (1-2 days), then pay with PayPal. Their customer service was very responsive. Good luck!
From my earlier post...
I sourced the switches yesterday from JP-Carparts in Japan over PayPal. USD 124.00 including shipping for both left and right - OEM. I acknowledge it's a little high, but I'm glad to have OEM on the way.
- Thread starter
- #56
You need to use the Y-harness that came with your kit... and cut that.
Then you will have the LOW/HIGH and Ground.
Off of the Y Harness, follow the wires back to the switch included with the kit. The wire that is the low from the included switch will be the low for the Land Cruiser. Same with the High.
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I'm afraid this has me stumped. Just not understanding how to modify this harness to end up with HI/LO/GND.
Perhaps I've just got the wrong harness here. Any guidance is most appreciated. Thanks.
Perhaps I've just got the wrong harness here. Any guidance is most appreciated. Thanks.
One more photo...
- Thread starter
- #60
I'm not exactly sure.
I don't know why you have three quick disconnect sections going to your relay.