96 fzj80 crank no start (1 Viewer)

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OK, I think I understand WHY now.

The wrong battery is in there. The positive (+) post needs to be towards the center of the truck, but it should be to the REAR of the truck, not the front. Your battery cable is too short (I don't see the cable going to the starter)

Then you can get rid of the PO contraption and additional connections.

Install MIL-spec battery clamps and attach the things as they need to be attached.

Don't cut and hack on your Fusible links, as they are designed to burn up and fail to save the rest of the truck. If you alter their length, connections, etc., then they may not perform as designed. In this case, I would think they would fail early, causing you serious heartache to have to work through this mess again, on the side of the road.

Good Luck!
 
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You have my sympathies; that's a mess. This is where the "outgoing" wires from the fusible links go:
1658845325733.png



The "F7" (B) connector housing has the "pink" wire (which should be W/R, according to the EWD). This is directly connected to the ignition switch. These are wire terminals "11" (incoming) and "6" (outgoing) in the column mounted ignition switch.

1658846022331.png


But, as @jonheld has mentioned above, you first need to verify that the ECU has power. In addition to making the checks he has posted above, take some time to check/fix your MIL lamp in the combination meter:

1658845916767.png
 
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Also, if you haven't already, grab a copy of the EWD and Harness Repair Manual in the Resources section.
 
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Both the 7.5 ign fuse and pin 1 have 12v
Verify +12 on connector E7 pin 12.

This engine ran at one point...correct?
You're certain that the CEL has a good bulb?

Plug in an OBD2 reader. Are you talking to the ECU? Are there error codes?
 
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Verify +12 on connector E7 pin 12.

This engine ran at one point...correct?
You're certain that the CEL has a good bulb?

Plug in an OBD2 reader. Are you talking to the ECU? Are there error codes?
I'll have to check pin 12 when I get home and yeah it used to run. More recently though it's just been sitting and occasionally moving it around for other project cars. There was a point where I would start it and it would run just fine then start sputtering like 10 seconds after driving then die out.

I'll have to test the bulb. Reader communicates and shows no codes.
 
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I'll have to check pin 12 when I get home and yeah it used to run. More recently though it's just been sitting and occasionally moving it around for other project cars. There was a point where I would start it and it would run just fine then start sputtering like 10 seconds after driving then die out.

I'll have to test the bulb. Reader communicates and shows no codes.
If the OBD2 reader communicates with the ECU, then the ECU is powering up correctly.
In your first post you said you were getting spark while cranking. Is this still the case? How did you test?
What is the internal condition of the distributor cap/rotor?
 
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Verify +12 on connector E7 pin 12.

This engine ran at one point...correct?
You're certain that the CEL has a good bulb?

Plug in an OBD2 reader. Are you talking to the ECU? Are there error codes?
Well this is interesting. I'm getting sub 2 volts on pin 12 of E7 with the key on.

I had previously tested the spark plugs with a tester.


Also the distributor/rotor internals look good.
 
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Yeah B+ has 12v. I had tested that again right before pulling the e7 connector.
What do you mean by "pulling the e7 connector."???
When checking voltages on the ECU connectors, the connectors must be connected to the ECU.
If you removed E7 from the ECU, the readings are useless.
 
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Have you checked the bulb yet? It would be nice to know if we're going down the primrose path.
Bulb was dead. Swapped it with the seatbelt light and the CEL lit up when I turned the car on.


I have a question about testing relays. I was testing my EFI Main relay per the instructions in the FSM. It said check terminals 1/3 for continuity and 2/4 for no continuity.
1/3 didn't beep and gave me a reading of 1. 2/4 had no continuity and gave a reading of 0.67. This was the same for my COR. Are my relays really bad?
 
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Did you check the fusible links that you removed for continuity? If they tested bad, you may have wiring harness issues.
 
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Bulb was dead. Swapped it with the seatbelt light and the CEL lit up when I turned the car on.


I have a question about testing relays. I was testing my EFI Main relay per the instructions in the FSM. It said check terminals 1/3 for continuity and 2/4 for no continuity.
1/3 didn't beep and gave me a reading of 1. 2/4 had no continuity and gave a reading of 0.67. This was the same for my COR. Are my relays really bad?
So down the primrose path we went. Always check the simple things first.
If your EFI relay was faulty the CEL would not illuminate. The very first question asked.
Pins 1 and 3 are the coil inside the relay (logic). 2 and 4 are the relay contacts (load).
The ECU triggers the EFI relay by supplying +12 to pin 3. Pin 1 is ground.
When the relay is triggered, the load side contacts close (pins 2/4) and +12 is fed to the EFI system.

As far as the readings you have, I'm not sure what you're talking about.
 
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1/3 didn't beep and gave me a reading of 1. 2/4 had no continuity and gave a reading of 0.67.
What you wrote doesn't really make any sense.

Pins 1 & 3 are connected by a coil, so you should see some resistance there. You said "1.2", but 1.2 *what*? Ohms? Kilohms? Megaohms? Pins 2 & 4 should only be connected when there's current running across 1 & 3. 0.67 ohms would certainly be considered continuity in my book, but 0.67 kilohms (670 ohms) might not satisfy your multimeter. I don't know what Toyota's relays are specified at, but around 100 ohms across the trigger pins is fairly common for a 12V relay.

The beep and/or continuity indicator is somewhat arbitrary and just a tool to help with rapid diagnosis without having to look at the meter. Assuming you're using a digital multimeter, you should be seeing OL (Open Loop, i.e. open circuit, no connection) on 2 & 4 if you aren't applying current through 1 & 3.
 
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What you wrote doesn't really make any sense.

Pins 1 & 3 are connected by a coil, so you should see some resistance there. You said "1.2", but 1.2 *what*? Ohms? Kilohms? Megaohms? Pins 2 & 4 should only be connected when there's current running across 1 & 3. 0.67 ohms would certainly be considered continuity in my book, but 0.67 kilohms (670 ohms) might not satisfy your multimeter. I don't know what Toyota's relays are specified at, but around 100 ohms across the trigger pins is fairly common for a 12V relay.

The beep and/or continuity indicator is somewhat arbitrary and just a tool to help with rapid diagnosis without having to look at the meter. Assuming you're using a digital multimeter, you should be seeing OL (Open Loop, i.e. open circuit, no connection) on 2 & 4 if you aren't applying current through 1 & 3.
1/3 didn't beep and gave me a reading of 1.
2/4 had no continuity and gave a reading of 0.67.

Sorry should have made that more readable.
I get the same reading in the relay with no power running through 1/3 and with power running through 1/3.

efiMainTest.jpg


efiMainTestEngergized.jpg
 

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