'93 80 - U-Joints - Any idea on cost and good shop in KC area?

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FZJ80 in KC

FZJ80 in KC

10 Year
Joined
Apr 24, 2014
Threads
31
Messages
1,419
Location
overland park, ks
Hey guys,

Pretty sure one of my driveshafts needs some help. I've been hearing a pretty loud metallic clunk inconsistently over the last few weeks. Climbed under the truck and nothing loose. It has gotten more consistent. And in the last couple of days, it makes the loud clunk (sounds like metal on metal) at acceleration from a stop (not always, but I gave a few good hard starts taking off from a light, and it did it for me twice). And today it started vibrating pretty noticeabley while driving. Almost vibrates in a pattern (can feel it hum through the steering wheel in long pulses, then go down, then back up).

I crawled underneath, and while in park, I can't move the driveshafts at all (rotate it, back, forth, not budging). I haven't started reading through threads a lot on how to diagnose yet. Will be doing that now at work (very productive!) and tomorrow.

I seem to remember advice on here that to replace u-joints, you guys recommend taking them to a shop.

Any advice on cost estimates and good shops?

Thanks!

Mike
 
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If you have double cardon, take to shop, for yours it is not too hard to do.

Rob R. did his at my house with the tool that you borrow from Advance Auto. Moog has joints, and I would get the non-grease type as the moog fitting is on the outside of the U joint, (the end) and given your driving it would be knocked off then all grease would come out. I am doing the same for foo.
 
2fpower said:
If you have double cardon, take to shop, for yours it is not too hard to do.

Rob R. did his at my house with the tool that you borrow from Advance Auto. Moog has joints, and I would get the non-grease type as the moog fitting is on the outside of the U joint, (the end) and given your driving it would be knocked off then all grease would come out. I am doing the same for foo.
Click to expand...

"and given your driving it would be knocked off then all grease would come out"

...so true...

Thanks Kelly!

I'm going to start with the u-joints I think, so I'll plan on tackling myself then if its not that bad. My wandering mind keeps running to my drive flanges as well...really trying to build a case to just replace front axles with chromoly.

I might pick your brain a little on the transfer case bearings this weekend as well. I've seen them mentioned quite a bit around vibration threads.
 
I recall a late night U-joint swap happening behind a fire station. If memory serves there was a hammer, part of an I-beam (custom anvil) and whatever tools could be scrounged off a Rescue truck. I remember thinking if you could swap one there imagine how easy it would be in an actual garage with real tools ! However, this was on a ford truck and I have never done, nor seen one done on an 80. I really can't imagine it being more difficult then a PHH or a knuckle rebuild.
 
Got it. I guess I didn't realize our stock DS's weren't true double cardans, and I had heard to take double cardans to a shop...spent too much time in the jeep world dealing with rezeppa DS's!
 
Yeah, my first memory of one was on a 78' Trans Am. Lots of blood, cursing and banging with hammers.

The tool at Advance seems half a$$, but works. Maybe try and see if Orielly's has a different tool.
 
What's the danger of ruining the yokes? Metallic clunk is getting pretty consistent, and I'm getting some whining now too (starting to worry about pinion gears now too, but hoping the whining just has to do with the driveshaft). I've got to head up to the Legends area this afternoon, and was wondering if I really need to park my rig until I can start tearing into it....really need to get another daily driver....
 
When you come over tonight, let's swap with one of my extra driveshafts.

See if that takes care of it.
 
Perfect, thanks Kelly
 
7" cutting wheel on a grinder makes swapping them much easier. Cut old joint out. Nothin special needed in the way of tools
 
Ruining the yolks comes from bending them when pressing or forcing old stuff out. The cutting wheel worked awesome. I hated u joints before. Ill try plasma cutter on next one maybe. Hint. Fan and garage door open. Old grease smolders
 
Good advice, thanks Erik!
 
You got part numbers for us to look for low prices?
 
Yep, Moog or Precision part # 389 for the rears, and # 287 for the front non-greasables.

And thanks again for the drive shafts while we get parts ordered, and the peace of mind knowing this was the issue.
 
35% off orders over $50 on Advance, coupon code WD55...still searching but might be the way to go.
 
$50 max savings though...
 
The 2 front u-joints that I need are out of stock completely through Advance, but the Grandview store has 4 of the Moog #389 for our rears. With WD55 brings the price down to $89.80 after tax, or $22.45 a piece.

I'd just have to source my fronts somewhere else (Pretty sure the Olathe O'reilly had those there for $19.99).
 
FYI.. in doing my ujoints on the 45.. I had 2 OEM toyota joints sitting there.. and a New in the box Precision U joint.. which when opening the precision box had a GMB u joint in the precision box.. while i couldn't find matsuba on rock auto.. the GMB are made in japan.. so i'll see exactly how close to OEM they are..
Just an fyi.. doesn't seem prudent to spend 3x as much on a precision u joint when it comes with a GMB in the box.
 
is the front the same as the 40? I might be doing 2 this evening and have 2 more spares.. if your so inclined.. I kinda remember my 80 had 2 different sizes of ujoints.. smaller and larger.. the larger i have spares of in the garage..
 
I think the rear on our 80's is the same as both your front and rear (part #389 for moog/precision). Think the fronts are the smaller. I checked with O'reilly in olathe though and they have 4 in stock. Thanks Erik!!
 
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